orchimaxi
NAXJA Forum User
vetteboy said:
Be careful of work related accidents - web wheeling can be a dangerous occupation!
(The guy several thousand miles away from his rig shouldn't be preaching...)
It has begun -Dial Up Shoot yourself-
- Thread starter JamesD
- Start date
Be careful of work related accidents - web wheeling can be a dangerous occupation!
(The guy several thousand miles away from his rig shouldn't be preaching...)
Truthfully guys it was opening weekend of deer season so I didn't get to work on it. I am taking off next week in hopes of devoting multiple days of just jeep fab time.
Another idea that I am having which may be totally off base but what I am thinking of is running a basic channel from one end to the other and welding it to the botttom of the rail on the chassis and capping the remainder that is not welded to the chassis. Once it is plated I am thinking of using some tubing and building braces from the rail to the "frame" of the jeep. I have seen this done or at least something similar for vehicles that were just huge so I assume that this would be the best route which would give me something of a frame throughout and something to tie the unibody into from front to back. I will also gain a flat plain as to mount my springs on. I made this drawing in paint in like two minutes but I hope this gets the point across. The top piece is one section that I had thought up which is the easiest in that my mounting plates ctc would be very close to the width of teh rail so by me just extending the front mounts inward slightly it would give me perfect moutnig surfaces with no angles having to be put in the added frame rail. Or my other option below that is to angle it inward but I believe that either way would work but for stength of the rail I would rather go with the first but my thinking may be incorrect as usual
. The last image is how I would tie in the rail to the chassis. The bars going upward, I would imagine some round tubing with a u piece welded to the unibody. I have included a legend in the pic for reference but let me know what you think.
Another idea that I am having which may be totally off base but what I am thinking of is running a basic channel from one end to the other and welding it to the botttom of the rail on the chassis and capping the remainder that is not welded to the chassis. Once it is plated I am thinking of using some tubing and building braces from the rail to the "frame" of the jeep. I have seen this done or at least something similar for vehicles that were just huge so I assume that this would be the best route which would give me something of a frame throughout and something to tie the unibody into from front to back. I will also gain a flat plain as to mount my springs on. I made this drawing in paint in like two minutes but I hope this gets the point across. The top piece is one section that I had thought up which is the easiest in that my mounting plates ctc would be very close to the width of teh rail so by me just extending the front mounts inward slightly it would give me perfect moutnig surfaces with no angles having to be put in the added frame rail. Or my other option below that is to angle it inward but I believe that either way would work but for stength of the rail I would rather go with the first but my thinking may be incorrect as usual
. The last image is how I would tie in the rail to the chassis. The bars going upward, I would imagine some round tubing with a u piece welded to the unibody. I have included a legend in the pic for reference but let me know what you think.
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
Most of use chose to sleve the frame to get better ground clearance, you could do a Sub frame, Frame under the frame, frame stack.
If that is what you really want why not use a chevy frame under the XJ frame.
As pictured your blue (bumpers) dotn tie into the subframe.
your red cross braces will not work where the rear and front drive shafts drop down to the axle, unless this cross bracing is above the drivetrain.
There is a frame stack on an XJ with 38s. This would be crap for what I do with mine but for a mud runner I see it being practical. Just swap XJ boddies when one gets too torn up.
I searched on www.xjdb.com to find you those pics..
Not all pretty thats for sure.
If that is what you really want why not use a chevy frame under the XJ frame.
As pictured your blue (bumpers) dotn tie into the subframe.
your red cross braces will not work where the rear and front drive shafts drop down to the axle, unless this cross bracing is above the drivetrain.
There is a frame stack on an XJ with 38s. This would be crap for what I do with mine but for a mud runner I see it being practical. Just swap XJ boddies when one gets too torn up.
I searched on www.xjdb.com to find you those pics..
Not all pretty thats for sure.
Roxtar
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NW Indiana-Chicago area
Now THAT'S the way to build an XJ for fo-D-fos on a budget.ashmanjeepxj said:Most of use chose to sleve the frame to get better ground clearance, you could do a Sub frame, Frame under the frame, frame stack.
If that is what you really want why not use a chevy frame under the XJ frame.
As pictured your blue (bumpers) dotn tie into the subframe.
your red cross braces will not work where the rear and front drive shafts drop down to the axle, unless this cross bracing is above the drivetrain.
There is a frame stack on an XJ with 38s. This would be crap for what I do with mine but for a mud runner I see it being practical. Just swap XJ boddies when one gets too torn up.
I searched on www.xjdb.com to find you those pics..
Not all pretty thats for sure.
Well if I were to build a frame under it then should I tie the bumper in there or not? Also what frame did they start out with do you know? I was not intending to put braces in those specific spots. I just put them in there for a visual. I am sure they will have to be placed in specific areas as to allow for clearance.
vintagespeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upland, CA
vetteboy said:And you'd think a guy with the name 'vintagespeed' could tell the difference between a Buick and an Oldsmobile. :doh:
touche. i realized just a second after it was plastered all over the interweb.
vintagespeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upland, CA
JamesD said:
Yep, that rock anchor is doing what an anchor does.
I agree with Ash that a frame under your rig is probably gonna get you where you wanna be and it'll be a helluvalot safer than building your own suspension.....
You'll have to modify and build some new mounts to mount your Jeep onto the frame, so any frame will work. Find a cheap F250 with a 460/c6/205/44/60 or 60/60 (snow fighter) and goferit.
At that point I believe you'll have a XJ cabtruck.
87xjco
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver, CO
Ah, um..........................
Aw nevermind
Aw nevermind
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
The blue XJ frame setup I would prefer over the purple one much simplier so more likely to come out nice.
So what kind fame could it be? Im pretty sure it was once longer then cut down to fix the XJ wheelbase or that woudl be easy to do. Going to 3/4ton or 1ton is not going to buy you much they are flexy C-channel frames not fully boxed, and would be silly tall adn heavy. what youd really want it a leaf sprung frame that is boxed in . The 85 and earlier toyota truck frames would be good option leaf springs boxed about the right width, this pictured one looks alittle bigger then toyota frame. It might be an early bronco frame, jeep wagoneer frame, Some like that size.
Anothe frame stack pic I found a 1984 something?
This looks like a 1/2ton full size frame.
So what kind fame could it be? Im pretty sure it was once longer then cut down to fix the XJ wheelbase or that woudl be easy to do. Going to 3/4ton or 1ton is not going to buy you much they are flexy C-channel frames not fully boxed, and would be silly tall adn heavy. what youd really want it a leaf sprung frame that is boxed in . The 85 and earlier toyota truck frames would be good option leaf springs boxed about the right width, this pictured one looks alittle bigger then toyota frame. It might be an early bronco frame, jeep wagoneer frame, Some like that size.
Anothe frame stack pic I found a 1984 something?
This looks like a 1/2ton full size frame.
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
Here is a pic i found years ago with a flat frame...
Its also on XJ db now..
Its also on XJ db now..
What about like a mid to early 80's Chevrolet 1/2 ton. I can pick those up fairly cheap that are runners. Take off the body and adapt mine to it. Do you think the SWB would be a good choice. Giving me a platform with motor mounts and etc.. also I can use my springs LOL. Any better routes like the Toy frame mentioned above? I am open to all options I just liked the idea of it all being in place and I drop my body on and woo hoo ready to go. I know I know there is more to it than that but hey I can hope. I would just assume this would be the most efficient way to go about this. No guessing on mounting motor trans etc...
Found this http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/framespecs.html Has a good breakdown on the dimensions of the older chevrolet stuff.
hadfield4wd
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
Dude,
I have read most of this thread. I commend your wanting to stick to your build and platform.
Just some observations.
This may be sacriledge on
, but why stick with a XJ? If you want 44's it will be cheaper and easier with a full size blazer or bronco. You could easliy put in 1 ton running gear in both. They will have full frame, V-8, the wiring, linkages etc. worked out for the most part. This could also be done faster and those vehicles are all over. Yes you would get body damage I know that. Then you could mildly build the XJ on 33's or 36's.
Good luck and I will keep watching.
I have read most of this thread. I commend your wanting to stick to your build and platform.
Just some observations.
This may be sacriledge on
, but why stick with a XJ? If you want 44's it will be cheaper and easier with a full size blazer or bronco. You could easliy put in 1 ton running gear in both. They will have full frame, V-8, the wiring, linkages etc. worked out for the most part. This could also be done faster and those vehicles are all over. Yes you would get body damage I know that. Then you could mildly build the XJ on 33's or 36's.Good luck and I will keep watching.
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
JamesD said:
your ganna have to measure afew and modify the frame and XJ frame if needed.
Any 1/2ton chevy frame with leafs front and rear I think would be easy enough for you to work with. With the 1/2 ton Chevy frame it will flex so you will need to Isolate the frame from the body with flexable body mounts like a factory chevy cab would mount.
1/2 chevy all the way.
Only question I see is if you shoudl attempt to keep the cherokee Drivetrain or replace it with the chevy stuff on the frame you will buy?
Is the cherokee stuff in good shape? If so It mgiht be worth putting more money into it getting a SYE for the t-case and making new drive shafts. The Np231 I wouldent trust on 44s.
Ideally if you could find a 350 or 454 powered 1/2ton with a Th350 or Th400 auto with the NP203 behind it, you could use that whole setup for now get the project rolling.. I think $500-1000 you should be able to find a ugly ass but stout drivetrain.
and later you could add a chevy Np205 doubler behind the 203. Swap to propane or fuel injection, get beadlocks, upgrade your used tires to new 44in Boggers..Swap Xj boddies if yours gets trashed.
I think this 1/2 frame Idea will work out great for you. not
style but what ever.
Ludakris
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Frederick, Maryland
ashmanjeepxj said:your ganna have to measure afew and modify the frame and XJ frame if needed.
Any 1/2ton chevy frame with leafs front and rear I think would be easy enough for you to work with. With the 1/2 ton Chevy frame it will flex so you will need to Isolate the frame from the body with flexable body mounts like a factory chevy cab would mount.
1/2 chevy all the way.
Only question I see is if you shoudl attempt to keep the cherokee Drivetrain or replace it with the chevy stuff on the frame you will buy?
Is the cherokee stuff in good shape? If so It mgiht be worth putting more money into it getting a SYE for the t-case and making new drive shafts. The Np231 I wouldent trust on 44s.
Ideally if you could find a 350 or 454 powered 1/2ton with a Th350 or Th400 auto with the NP203 behind it, you could use that whole setup for now get the project rolling.. I think $500-1000 you should be able to find a ugly ass but stout drivetrain.
and later you could add a chevy Np205 doubler behind the 203. Swap to propane or fuel injection, get beadlocks, upgrade your used tires to new 44in Boggers..Swap Xj boddies if yours gets trashed.
I think this 1/2 frame Idea will work out great for you. not
Again... get an s-10.
From what I have read, the S-10 Blazer frame is much stronger than the fullsize frames. This is because the extra material needed for the front IFS. Throw some leafs in the front and your golden. Everyone and their brother make v-8 swaps for them, or stick with a 4.3L. If you really have something agains the S-10 blazer body, then throw the cherokee on it, but it seems like a lot of work just to have it look like a cherokee.
I just like the look of the XJ and if this is the way to do it then here we go. The search is on for a 73-87 1/2 chevy 4x4. I intend to find a driver and rip it apart. Luckily these are readily accessible here in Arkansas - go figure. I am thinking lateral braces to tie into the body mounts so as to attch the XJ body to the Chevy frame. I want to use all of the drive train from the chevy as to why re invent the wheel on drive train mounting. So yes it is not much of an XJ left but truthfully what of these are once they are highly modified.
I can get a running and driving 4x4 s-10 blazer for $500 with the 4.3 but what else will I have to change in the drivetrain whereas a full size comes with fairly beefy stuff as not to need an upgrade immediately. I am open to either. I just wonder which would be the most beneficial.
