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It has begun -Dial Up Shoot yourself-

JamesD said:
I can get a running and driving 4x4 s-10 blazer for $500 with the 4.3 but what else will I have to change in the drivetrain whereas a full size comes with fairly beefy stuff as not to need an upgrade immediately. I am open to either. I just wonder which would be the most beneficial.

Front and rear axles. Convert front to leaf.
it should have a 4.3L 700R4 NP231. What year?
 
If you're gonna build a sub-frame, I'd talk to these Arizona guys (Greg from C-ROK, and Theon). I think even with raised coil mounts and a sub-frame, they were running 39s. Theon's was nick'd "Creepers" ...

http://community.webshots.com/user/creeprs

He sold it shortly after he built it.



Pics I got of C-ROK Greg...
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0039.jpg
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0043.jpg
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0044.jpg
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0049.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. I was looking at the pics and I cannot see how exactly he tied the subframe into the chassis? Any close ups of the attaching points.
 
JamesD said:
Like a 1992


then it should have the 4.3L 700R4 NP231 combo.
there were some threads on Pirate about s-10 truggies that had good info, do a search there...
I had an 85 s-10 blazer i just got rid of. it was free, but i had it almost 2 years with out touching it.. the wife won that battle... :gag:
I figured leafs and rockwells..
 
Am I the only one here that can't believe someone would go to the trouble of swapping an XJ body on top of a pickup chassis?

If you have a look at what a dedicated trail rig looks like these days, you'll note the lack of an body panels what-so-ever. Why in gawd's name would you intentionally add sheetmetal to a trail rig?

Your BEST option is to buy a military surplus CUCV 1 1/4 ton chevy pick-up. It has a detroit 14 bolt in back, a 60 front, 4.56's a 6.2 diesel (no smog) a TH400 and a 205. Remove all sheetmetal, add tube, 44 inch tires, alloy axles and joints, and a 203 doubler. Oh, and don't forget the mullett. Now, wheel to your hearts content and never worry about damaging sheetmetal.

CRASH

P.S. This thread, like all of your threads, is like a bad traffic accident. You know you shouldn't look, but you just can't help yourself.
 
I figure I can pick those up for nothing. I see them everywhere for $500 that run but will the motor be large enough to actually move 44's and will the drive train be sufficient to start with. I just look at it as why buy it and do all of the work and have to replace it soon after if it is not sufficient that is why I like the full sizes but hey if the s10 stuff is strong enough I will rip the body off and throw my XJ on it and make it work. Also from above it was said that I need to set it up to have rubber bushing like factory to mount it to, just checking for clarity.
 
JamesD said:
I figure I can pick those up for nothing. I see them everywhere for $500 that run but will the motor be large enough to actually move 44's and will the drive train be sufficient to start with. I just look at it as why buy it and do all of the work and have to replace it soon after if it is not sufficient that is why I like the full sizes but hey if the s10 stuff is strong enough I will rip the body off and throw my XJ on it and make it work. Also from above it was said that I need to set it up to have rubber bushing like factory to mount it to, just checking for clarity.


4.3L and some decent gears would be plenty..
 
CRASH said:
Your BEST option is to buy a military surplus CUCV 1 1/4 ton chevy pick-up. It has a detroit 14 bolt in back, a 60 front, 4.56's a 6.2 diesel (no smog) a TH400 and a 205. Remove all sheetmetal, add tube, 44 inch tires, alloy axles and joints, and a 203 doubler. Oh, and don't forget the mullett. Now, wheel to your hearts content and never worry about damaging sheetmetal.

Look - here's one! And it has all that already!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...006QQitemZ160050104718QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 
That should tell you something about how desireable that kind of setup is then, especially since that truck has pretty good hardware on it for that sort of build.
 
mikedashg said:
If you're gonna build a sub-frame, I'd talk to these Arizona guys (Greg from C-ROK, and Theon). I think even with raised coil mounts and a sub-frame, they were running 39s. Theon's was nick'd "Creepers" ...

http://community.webshots.com/user/creeprs

He sold it shortly after he built it.



Pics I got of C-ROK Greg...
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0039.jpg
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0043.jpg
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0044.jpg
http://www.mike-g.net/jeep/yinyang/pics/jambo_truckhaven/images/jambo_0049.jpg

Theon sold the XJ about 2 years ago, and I doubt James could afford Gregs kit, nor would it solve all his issues.
 
JamesD said:
I figure I can pick those up for nothing. I see them everywhere for $500 that run but will the motor be large enough to actually move 44's and will the drive train be sufficient to start with. I just look at it as why buy it and do all of the work and have to replace it soon after if it is not sufficient that is why I like the full sizes but hey if the s10 stuff is strong enough I will rip the body off and throw my XJ on it and make it work. Also from above it was said that I need to set it up to have rubber bushing like factory to mount it to, just checking for clarity.

I wouldent touch an IFS S-10 frame. The 4.3L is ok but not much differetn then your 4.0, your Aw4 is about the same an a 700R4, and 231's are similar, the S-10 stuff is alittel better.

But a 454 or 350 with a Th400 and NP205 behind it is much better for pushing 44s.

I was worring about using the Np231 on 37s.
Stick with the 1/2ton frame and 1ton drivetrain if you can find it.
 
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