Demonoid369
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salem, OR
What you need clarifying? Excited to see the finished axle
IslanderOffRoad's Axle Swap Thread
- Thread starter IslanderOffRoad
- Start date
- Location
- Houston, Tx
I sent some questions to TNT- I'll post the answers here, but here's what I asked in case anyone around here has an idea:
1. Shock mounts: Instructions mention using the 1/2", 1" or both spacers for stretching the wheelbase, but no mention of what to do if you are sticking to the stock coil position. I'm assuming this means I shouldn't use a spacer, but I wanted to confirm it.
2. LCA Mounts. I bought the stock replacement style. Instructions only talk about the high clearance mounts. How do I line these up? Instructions say to line them up with the inside edge of the coil mounts, but if I do this the driver's side one doesn't have enough space. Noticed theres a small notch cut in the coil mounts... is this what I line up off of?
3. Swaybar mounts. I can't figure out how to make these fit where the instructions say to put them. Assuming I need to trim them down but still don't see how to line them up outside the coil mounts against the knuckle.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Finished welding today
1. No spacers needed at stock axle position
2. LCA mounts go where I thought, lined up with the cutout. Measured vs my stock axle and that located them properly
3. These definitely needed trimming to fit right, but won't have any interference issues with the steering if you're still using stock utk steering.
Next up paint and ball joints
1. No spacers needed at stock axle position
2. LCA mounts go where I thought, lined up with the cutout. Measured vs my stock axle and that located them properly
3. These definitely needed trimming to fit right, but won't have any interference issues with the steering if you're still using stock utk steering.
Next up paint and ball joints
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Finally got the old one out and the new axle in position
The uca bolts supplied by TNT for their bushings are too big for the holes in the uca's... and the stock bolts have too much play in the bushings. Drilling out the uca's seems like the solution but not sure it's a good idea
- Location
- Denver, CO
Looks good!
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Well it's finally done... other than an alignment, the front driveshaft and ability to use the lockers.
Pinion angle looks much better now that the wheels are on and it's on the ground.
I think I'm going to cut off the rear truss. It's way too much for my lift height. Also need to get the parking brake working. The guy i bought the axle from pulled all the e brake hardware
Pinion angle looks much better now that the wheels are on and it's on the ground.
I think I'm going to cut off the rear truss. It's way too much for my lift height. Also need to get the parking brake working. The guy i bought the axle from pulled all the e brake hardware
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Took the Jeep to get an alignment this morning and found a new problem on the ride over.
I was getting a ton of noise from the suspension- particularly over bumps. It wasn't rotational or consistent but was loud enough to evoke concern.
Got out to check, and the driver side coil spring is bowing forward and contacting the track bar mount.
Now, I didn't stretch the wheelbase at all. But when I pulled the old axle apart the coils seemed longer than they needed to be for my lift height. Add that to the fact that the TNT truss has the coil mounts sitting higher than the stock 30, and I think my coils are too long for the application.
The passenger side is doing the same thing, but with no mount there, its not making contact.
So here are the two options I've come up with to rectify this... anyone think one or the other is a better idea, or should I do both?
1. Replace the track bar and bracket with a double shear TB/new bracket. Iron rock off road's for example looks like its thinner than the stock style one up near the top on the side of the frame rail, which is where I need clearance.
2. Replace the coils, likely go with Rubicon Express 3.5" lift ones, and spacers if needed.
Other than that my ARB compressor and air lines are on their way, so I should have the lockers up and running by the end of the long weekend.
I was getting a ton of noise from the suspension- particularly over bumps. It wasn't rotational or consistent but was loud enough to evoke concern.
Got out to check, and the driver side coil spring is bowing forward and contacting the track bar mount.
Now, I didn't stretch the wheelbase at all. But when I pulled the old axle apart the coils seemed longer than they needed to be for my lift height. Add that to the fact that the TNT truss has the coil mounts sitting higher than the stock 30, and I think my coils are too long for the application.
The passenger side is doing the same thing, but with no mount there, its not making contact.
So here are the two options I've come up with to rectify this... anyone think one or the other is a better idea, or should I do both?
1. Replace the track bar and bracket with a double shear TB/new bracket. Iron rock off road's for example looks like its thinner than the stock style one up near the top on the side of the frame rail, which is where I need clearance.
2. Replace the coils, likely go with Rubicon Express 3.5" lift ones, and spacers if needed.
Other than that my ARB compressor and air lines are on their way, so I should have the lockers up and running by the end of the long weekend.
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Can you post a pic?
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Here's a few from different angles
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Alignment specs
- Location
- WA state
If you heim joint is good, just pick up an RE, or whatever aftermarket mount and run that TB in double shear.
- Location
- San Diego
shorten your UCAs.
trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
This. Might help with the springs as well as giving you some more caster.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Guess it's time to buy some adjustables.
Any particular reason to do adjustable uppers over lowers?
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Will the RE bracket work with a heim style bar? I know they intend for it to be used with their bar with the superflex joint, so I would think a heim would be too small compared to the mount width
- Location
- San Diego
really you should do both
however with fixed lowers and adjustable uppers you can rotate the housing to correct this issue and get proper caster without pushing the axle too far forward and running the axle into trackbar at full stuff.
having both adjustable uppers and lowers means you can set the caster and wheelbase properly. but if you can only afford one, afford uppers.
- Location
- WA state
For years I ran a RE1600 in double shear with a modded frame side stock mount. Washers, spacers, to fit in the mount will work fine. The RE TB mount is only 2" wide IIRC.
- Location
- San Diego
iirc the RE adjustable trackbar with the superflex joint is a narrow joint anyway. should work.
also, they do make wide misalignment spacers for heims to fill larger mounts.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Adjustable uppers, new track bar and bracket and I'm all set. Much less noise from the front end.
Still need to set up the arb compressor but I'm waiting for my new switch panel
Still need to set up the arb compressor but I'm waiting for my new switch panel
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Drove the jeep to work today.
Still needs an alignment- getting one tomorrow morning.
Feels a bit floaty above 40- assuming that is from no sway bar?
Still needs an alignment- getting one tomorrow morning.
Feels a bit floaty above 40- assuming that is from no sway bar?
