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Iron Rock Long Arm Upgrade

One of you guy's running the 5.5 in. kit. How do you like the rear springs? Any problems so far?

Thanks

Droopy
The rear springs have been holding up quite well. The only complaint I would have with the 5.5" kit is the rear springs are a 3.5" pack with 1.5" longer shackle. Makes for a better ride but the rear sits lower than the front. But once you relocate the rear shackle mounts to fix the shackle angle it all works out in the end.
 
Only one bolt connecting the single top link to the differential. I don't see a 10mm high strength bolt failing under normal use (including hard wheeling).


ericsXJ has broken 2 of those 10mm bolts. not sure which arms he had when they did break but either RE short arms and drop brackets, or TNT y-link with both uppers.
 
yes stock rubber bushings. and they would have been the uca bolts supplied with the RE lift, not the stock bolts. he has a picture over on JF but i cant find it for the life of me. he has since slightly drilled out the bushing and is running a larger, standard size grade 8 bolt IIRC.
 
i realize that. and i can confim he broke them with RE short arms, not the TNT kit. but knowing that those bolts can break with the load separated between the two makes me even more suspect that just one alone can break. albeit it may not happen often, but it can. and id rather not rely on it.
 
i realize that. and i can confim he broke them with RE short arms, not the TNT kit. but knowing that those bolts can break with the load separated between the two makes me even more suspect that just one alone can break. albeit it may not happen often, but it can. and id rather not rely on it.

Yes I did break those bolts running RE short arms (with drop brackets). One side broke while running the Rubicon, the other side went pop on the street. After that I drilled them out and use 7/16" Grade 8's. I don't think the ones that broke were stock. I believe they came with the RE arms and were metric 10.9's.
 
im bit confused, which is normal for me, but isnt the 10mm bolt that is being talked about the bolt for the IRO caster adjustment, not the bolt for the bushing???
 
No, the 10mm goes through the bushing.

I followed good advice, and stayed away for that reason.

You can still drill out the bolt, but for 600 bucks, I really don't think I should have to modify the essential operation of the kit. It's too sketch.
 
im very interested in this kit. i just bought their double sheer track bar and bar pin eliminator today. now im saving for a critical path kit. im pretty excited, i bet it will ride really well with my RE coils =)
 
and your point is...

my point is that i dont trust one 10mm bolt to hold my axle in place, especially knowing they can be broken.
 
Look, bottom line:

The folks that run it, love it and have had zero problems.
The folks that don't run it are skeptical.

My Iron-Y Long Arm kit is in the mail.
 
and your point is...

my point is that i dont trust one 10mm bolt to hold my axle in place, especially knowing they can be broken.
Different setups apply different amounts of stress to individual parts. I'm pointing out that the instances of the 10mm bolt breaking you gave are from an entirely different setup.
 
heres what i think about the whole 10MM bolt breaking... stop arguing about it breaking and just carry a few spares! when it breaks, stop ASAP and pull out your ratchet strap, pull it back into place and replace the broken bolt with a new one =) problem solved!
 
I dont think it will be an issue with the IRO kit, unlike the RE or TNT lifts there's no tension on the bolt since there's only one. on those lifts when the front flexes the upper bolts are pushing/pulling against each other thru the axle.
 
I dont think it will be an issue with the IRO kit, unlike the RE or TNT lifts there's no tension on the bolt since there's only one. on those lifts when the front flexes the upper bolts are pushing/pulling against each other thru the axle.
Yeah, there is no tension on it so hell, just leave the bolt out entirely :rolleyes:

That logic makes absolutely no sense - sure, they don't fight each other, but there is still a hell of a lot of force on the bolt, else there would be no reason for it, or the upper control arms, to exist. The upper and lower control arms keep the torque from the axle from just spinning the housing instead of the wheels - this goes for both accelerating and braking forces.
 
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