blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
dont bother or waste your time with a selectable locker, just get a grizzly or a detroit.
Inexpensive selectable locker
- Thread starter Skipper51
- Start date
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
It's this delicate balance of DD for the wife in snow and weekend warrior. We like the 4x4 on snow but if the front is locked it tends to not turn but keep plowing a straight line. :roll: Plus spools suck on rocks when you doing a lot of tight turns and what not, its nice to be able to unlock.
That said I too have heard that E-Lockers are weak and have problems and that is why I asked you guys to weigh in on this and I do appreciate all your input. Plus I just have a thing about air lockers. They have one more thing to go wrong than an electric locker.
OK the jury is still out. I am stuck in analysis paralysis. :helpme: I think the selections to choose from is too narrow. I need an electric, strong cheap, dependable locker is that too much to ask for when I can hold a computer in my hand that is fast and better than the one used to land men on moon. :rattle:
Rob D
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pittsburg CA
My heep is also a daily driver so I'm familar with the issues your looking at for driveability. I didn't have a locker in the front for years, in fact this last SierraFest was my first time having a front locker. I've had a LocRight and a Detroit in the rear in the past. For normal driving it was just fine. I usually head up to Tahoe at least once each winter and as long as I didn't get silly with the skinny pedal it did just fine up there too. But if you tow and have to do sharp turns while backing up an incline, as I had to do, I felt it was just putting too much stress on the whole rear axle assembly. So I finally went to an ARB in the rear and have had no issues with it at all. I also put an E-Locker in the front that works well, but does seem a little slow to un-lock at times. I have read that the d30 and d35 E-Lockers are actually fairly strong since they have a slightly different design than the d44 model and are possibly stronger than a d44 model. But my d44 case is pretty thick. I'm guessing in the neighborhood of 3/4" thick. So I'm thinking I'll probably break a u-joint before I break the E-Locker. Luckily I haven't had to find out which one will break first yet.
I agree with blondejon, it really is a quick, fairly easy job to swap out an lp30 for a hp30. Once the vehicle is supported properly its just a matter of unbolting the old and bolting up the new. You could easily install the locker and gears in the hp30 before the swap, making it easier to work on. Then, in less than a full weekend, you could have the swap done and keep on driving your dd.
I agree with blondejon, it really is a quick, fairly easy job to swap out an lp30 for a hp30. Once the vehicle is supported properly its just a matter of unbolting the old and bolting up the new. You could easily install the locker and gears in the hp30 before the swap, making it easier to work on. Then, in less than a full weekend, you could have the swap done and keep on driving your dd.
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
Great. What were the issues with yours?
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
Well I need to change out the lp d30 for a hp d30///
Looking for a hp d30 with 4:11 gears. Any ideas on where the best place to look is. Been to the for sale here and Craigslist.
Looking for a hp d30 with 4:11 gears. Any ideas on where the best place to look is. Been to the for sale here and Craigslist.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
id say get a free HP housing, then buy new gears and master install , maybe 240$, then pay a shop to install off the rig, so thatll be say 100$ for install. into it for 340$.
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
That sounds good to me. Where do I find a free HP housing? Housing means no axles, and gears, or is that just the pumpkin? Good time to trus too I guess and if there are no axles then go chromo's at that time too?
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
You just need a non disco housing. Everything will swap over, except the gears of course. You could even use your knuckles if the hp ends up having the older style. You can reuse your shafts breaks unit bearings
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
yep you can use your knuckles/unit bearings, brakes, etc. you just need the housing.
I would do some armoring while you have it off:
weld on IRO knuckle gussets 40$
LCA skids - 0$ use misc spare steel
truss from housing to pass side uca
plate pass side uca
weld tubes to housing
consider sleeving the tubes as well (inner or outer)
I would do some armoring while you have it off:
weld on IRO knuckle gussets 40$
LCA skids - 0$ use misc spare steel
truss from housing to pass side uca
plate pass side uca
weld tubes to housing
consider sleeving the tubes as well (inner or outer)
knucklehead 61
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cottage Grove, Oregon
swap out the front axle, it will give you more clearance under the drive shaft & you need all you can get in the rocks.
i run arb's front & rear on my green heep & like them. they are the way to go if you do any snow / heavy rain on pavement at all. find an hp30, collect the parts, & build the axle up then toss it under your rig. they install fast & easy.
i run arb's front & rear on my green heep & like them. they are the way to go if you do any snow / heavy rain on pavement at all. find an hp30, collect the parts, & build the axle up then toss it under your rig. they install fast & easy.
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
I have my :eyes: out looking for HP D30.
Building it first may not be an option but swapping over parts as I install it might be the best way for me to go.
I will definitely weld on LCA Skids some, maybe trusses and weld the tubes to housing first.
The other thing Jon suggested I don't know what it is "plate pass side uca"
Why would you plate an Upper Control Arm?
Building it first may not be an option but swapping over parts as I install it might be the best way for me to go.
I will definitely weld on LCA Skids some, maybe trusses and weld the tubes to housing first.
The other thing Jon suggested I don't know what it is "plate pass side uca"
Why would you plate an Upper Control Arm?
- Location
- South San Francisco, CA
The passenger side upper control arm mount is a weak link and has been known to tear off as a result of hard use. If you plate it the front side, it boxes it in and makes it significantly stronger.
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
Well that sounds easy to do. Thank you.
knucklehead 61
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cottage Grove, Oregon
yup, it is easy to do & well worth the effort. really beefs up the mount.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
ya i ripped my pass side uca off on the rubicon last year. luckily i have a 4 link so just drove home as a 3 link.
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
I have four link too right? 2 UCA and 2 LCA with a track bar. Does this mean I have a 5 link? :eeks1:
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
4 link with pan hard
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
XJensen
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento
"pan hard" should I be offended?eace:
OK so what is a pan hard?
Pan hard = trac bar
- Location
- San Juan Ridge, CA
Still looking for a HP D30. MAybe more thisng will start poppin after the first of the year.
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