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Inexpensive selectable locker

Skipper51

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I am wondering what you guys thought would be a great inexpensive selectable locker for the front D30.

I am getting ready to re-gear and my gear man said he would install a locker for free.

Well as long as I am getting the work done why not do a locker too.

So selectable because I need to use the Jeep in the snow. Inexpensive because the gear work is not and I don't have the skills to even attempt it myself. I want a locker to help me have less trouble wheeling the harder stuff.

Question: It is good to have both front and back locked right?

So what do you guys think.

We are going to North Carolina to see our daughter and will not be back until 10/31 so if I don't respond right away that is why.
 
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In my opinion Selectable Lockers are the best thing since sliced bread, There is nothing better then being able to lock & Un-Lock your axle at the touch of a button.
But, There is no such thing as an "inexpensive selectable locker"
Good Luck
 
it's all preference. I love my lockers front and rear. and if you're re gearing, my thought process was yes put them front and rear. but an inexpensive selectable locker is a used locker. scour the forums and see if one pops up. or take a deal like this http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1091286 I just threw an aussie in my D30 because it's just that, a cheap turdy
 
Lockers are one of the best improvements you could make. I run a Detroit in the rear and a lunchbox up front. If you were on a tight budget Id run a lunchbox in the rear and a ARB up front. ARBs front and rear would be ideal but they arent cheap. Yukon has their version of an ARB with a 2 year warranty and they run 200-250 less per locker then ARBs. Even one locker in the rear and open in the front would be sweet. Having a lunch box up feont is cool and cheap but when I go up to Tahoe in winter I 2wd it every where becase you cant steer worth a crap when its in 4x4.
 
Skipper, I just purchased a Yukon zip locker should be at my door friday. I heard only good things about them. I purchased from Robert, and he has great prices, quick shipping and is good to talk with on the phone.
Robert Kobal
RWK Haus Supply
714-875-2414
www.RWKHausSupply.com
I would give him a call for the best prices, I purchased 4.56s gears from him last year and I am very happy with them.
 
I'm runnin lock-right front Aussie rear and am in the snow of the highway all the time. never had an issues. I just put it in 2wd if I see pavement
 
My question is do you have a vacuum disconnect axle or no? If its vac disconnect then you can do a automatic locker with the posi cable for it and that will also disconnect one axle side for easier stuff... That's the route I'm going. But your still looking at 500-600 for that setup as well
 
the issue with the disco axle is that you are stuck with the measly 260x u joints, whereas with a block off plate and new inner seal you can run a solid 2 piece shaft vs the 3 peice disco shaft, and use 760x joints and full circle clips. then youll have some sort of reasonable strength there.
 
The only way I would weld a D30 is if you have an early disco D30. Replace the drivers side shaft with the later XJ shaft with the larger u-joints. I don't remember exactly what year and model, but you can get the larger u-joint axle for the passenger side from a TJ IIRC. I ran these larger axles for a long time back in the day.

This way you can disco using the vacuum disco or convert it to a cable disco. Then go with the Tera2LO. Without the Tera2LO you will be running in 3 wheel drive and while cornering is somewhat better, it still sucks.

Instead of welding the spiders, I ran a QuickLock.
 
then he is good . he should have the bigger u joints too then.
 
His sig says lp 30 so no disconnect or mention of welding the axle. I would get a hp housing and install gears in that then swap it in. At least thats what i did.

Most places knock about 100 bucks off if the axle is out too
 
OK, I am back from North Carolina were we just missed Sandy by a few hundred miles. All we saw was some sprinkles and 30 MPH wind.

Thank you for all the information and suggestions on a lockers. For some reason ( I am not a good mechanic) I am shying away from changing out my front axle D30 LP for a D30 HP.

So the guy I have do my gear work thinks that even for 33" tires the LP will be fine. Not the strongest way to go I know but I am going to take the chance and carrier some extra shafts.

XJensenRe: Inexpensive selectable locker
I just picked up an e locker for the rear. Arb already up front. 100 bucks off this month on elockers. Got mine for a little more than a Detroit.

The E-Locker sounds the easiest way to go and it is $100 off. XJenson where did you get yours? Summit has them for $775.
 
i feel like there are 2 conflicting points, you feel the need for a front locker, yet you dont want to swap a front end ?

you dont have to be a good mechanic to swap a front end, give yourself one full day or maybe a couple of evenings. Its pretty easy.

Support frame such that the jack stands under the frame support the vehicle and not the axle, then remove steering, control arms, trackbar, breather vent tube, leave calipers hanging by ting them up, so you dont have to re bleed the brakes, unless you want to, coils, then pull axle out. swap new one in, and reverse the above. Slap tires on. leave trackbar for last. then get jeep centered under front end best you can and install track bar. then adjust steering wheel and toe in via drag link and trackbar.

not a whole lot to it.
 
Eaton E-locker FTW! Wish I had one in my heep.
 
dont go with an elocker, they're weak. i have one in my d44 and it's been repaired twice so far in a short period of time. plus eaton is absolutely crap when it comes to customer service. i have a grizzly in the front and i like that so far, so if i ever get another locker i may consider the zip.
 
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