Important

Kinda tech: Seized or suspected seized bolts - best to use an impact to shock them loose or by hand with a breaker bar? I've had mixed results both ways with shearing the bolts. Seems like the impact gets them loose more often than the breaker bar, which tends to shear.

I'm going to be pulling the trans crossmember out of the ZJ next week to do the t'case swap, and I'd like to avoid broken bolts. I have been soaking them with WD-40 (ran out of Kroil :doh:) daily for a couple days now as much as I can; the weldnuts are inside the frame rail so it's hard to get to the threads.



While we're talking tech, when swapping yokes on a D30 is it necessary to get a new crush sleeve or can I get away with reusing the one in it as long as it's torqued properly?
Nuts: heat the nut, not the bolt threaded through it, quench with penetrating lube, heat nut again, crack loose with breaker bar.

Bolts: beats the hell out of me. Usually I use my jeep words and a breaker bar. Try heating whatever it threads into without heating the bolt itself.

As for the yoke situation - if it's a low pinion, it's up to you... I dunno. High pinion I just retorque to the same spec (factory spec is 200 foot pounds.) You're supposed to use a new nut every time, but unless I just set the gears up, I'm reusing the nut if it's in good shape and I didn't remember to order one.

- Ken "dana 30 pinion nuts are $1.06 on rockauto, forgetfulness is the only excuse" Stein
 
If its low pinion it's crush sleeve and I don't know of a zj that came with high pinion. Remove the nut using a beam style torque wrench. Pay attention to the amount of torque needed to break the nut loose. Re torque to that and you should be good.
 
Kinda tech: Seized or suspected seized bolts - best to use an impact to shock them loose or by hand with a breaker bar? I've had mixed results both ways with shearing the bolts. Seems like the impact gets them loose more often than the breaker bar, which tends to shear.

I'm going to be pulling the trans crossmember out of the ZJ next week to do the t'case swap, and I'd like to avoid broken bolts. I have been soaking them with WD-40 (ran out of Kroil :doh:) daily for a couple days now as much as I can; the weldnuts are inside the frame rail so it's hard to get to the threads.

Heat is going to be your friend to avoid broken/sheared bolts. Get them cherry red then turn them.

Post the model number on the tractor and engine, might be able to find a manual.
If it's fuel injected (didn't know they were making them FI now) we might be able to figure something out.
I'm assuming the fuel filter has been changed?
Does it have any kind of LCD to display running hours or anything?
I know FI quads and cycles actually have codes...

Replace it with one of these and I could actually help you :wave:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/serieslanding.htm?series=Command PRO EFI

Kawi. should have diagnostic software that you can plug in and see what is going on with the engine, we have diag. software at kohler for our EFI engine. The software is usually available at a certified dealer.

I would start looking at the fuel pump, injectors and O2 sensor(if it has one?)... not sure how the Kawi is set-up.
 
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Breakaway torque and starting torque are gonna be different...

really, there are no perfect ways to put it back together on a crush sleeve setup. If I had to I'd PROBABLY just put a paint pen mark across the nut and yoke where they meet, then retighten to that point, or maybe a little further to make up for bearing wear and nut/washer material loss, but I haven't thought about it much.
 
Meh. I just hammer on it with an impact till it feels sufficiently tight. :D
 
If you are going to take apart a crush sleeve axle and put it back together you have to tighten just past where it was when you took it apart, if you don't things will loosen up on you.
 
Breakaway torque and starting torque are gonna be different...

really, there are no perfect ways to put it back together on a crush sleeve setup. If I had to I'd PROBABLY just put a paint pen mark across the nut and yoke where they meet, then retighten to that point, or maybe a little further to make up for bearing wear and nut/washer material loss, but I haven't thought about it much.

This what do using the paint pen.

mac 'pinion seals r me' gyvr
 
Meh. I just hammer on it with an impact till it feels sufficiently tight. :D
TORQUE VALUE:

25 to 35 ft/lbsBAP! BAP!

35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BA... BAP! BAP! BAP!

60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

110 to 300 ft/lbs ALL GUNS BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
 
TORQUE VALUE:

25 to 35 ft/lbsBAP! BAP!

35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BA... BAP! BAP! BAP!

60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

110 to 300 ft/lbs ALL GUNS BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
lol!

too bad thats too long to sig and im not red.
 
TORQUE VALUE:

25 to 35 ft/lbsBAP! BAP!

35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BA... BAP! BAP! BAP!

60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

110 to 300 ft/lbs ALL GUNS BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!


lol!

too bad thats too long to sig and im not red.

Hahahaha! Walt you need to get red again!
 
Interesting...

Sounds like heaven for a coaster lover. Have Fun!


It is, back in 2009 from 8pm to 9pm Saturday it poured, poured, poured and poured. Once it finally stopped, holy cow the coasters were screaming. I believe even the people who built the coaster (they were there) were amazed.
 
Wish I would of found them earlier, now I already have money stuck into an axle swap.
Last bump was in 2010, I would of thought they were gone/sold anyway even if I did find it.
 
Well, If everything goes right I should be getting rid of this
22143-DEFAULT-L.jpg


And getting one of these
GlockGen4-Lead.jpg


Tomorrow.
Then Im taking it camping with me, it may or may not get lost :wink:
 
I may have a new pinion nut for you byron let me look.
I always use the paint pen the nut and pinion. Count the number of threads between the two. Then when it goes back together run it back in until they line up with the correct number of threads then a lil tighter

If its high pinion then just torque the nut to spec.

I always use a breaker bar and pb blaster. Go tighter first then loosen. If it feels really tight coming out, work it back and forth.
 
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