- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Nuts: heat the nut, not the bolt threaded through it, quench with penetrating lube, heat nut again, crack loose with breaker bar.Kinda tech: Seized or suspected seized bolts - best to use an impact to shock them loose or by hand with a breaker bar? I've had mixed results both ways with shearing the bolts. Seems like the impact gets them loose more often than the breaker bar, which tends to shear.
I'm going to be pulling the trans crossmember out of the ZJ next week to do the t'case swap, and I'd like to avoid broken bolts. I have been soaking them with WD-40 (ran out of Kroil :dohdaily for a couple days now as much as I can; the weldnuts are inside the frame rail so it's hard to get to the threads.
While we're talking tech, when swapping yokes on a D30 is it necessary to get a new crush sleeve or can I get away with reusing the one in it as long as it's torqued properly?
Bolts: beats the hell out of me. Usually I use my jeep words and a breaker bar. Try heating whatever it threads into without heating the bolt itself.
As for the yoke situation - if it's a low pinion, it's up to you... I dunno. High pinion I just retorque to the same spec (factory spec is 200 foot pounds.) You're supposed to use a new nut every time, but unless I just set the gears up, I'm reusing the nut if it's in good shape and I didn't remember to order one.
- Ken "dana 30 pinion nuts are $1.06 on rockauto, forgetfulness is the only excuse" Stein