Important

my concern really doesnt lie on the 10mm bolt, its the flimsy bracket that is supposed to control all of the rotational force of the axle.

X10. just think about locking up your brakes or the front axle pulling the jeep up a hill climb bouncing the tires. the majority of that force goes to the chassis via the 2 lowers and one upper. I want those points to be as strong as possible.
 
come on dan... do it right.

couple brackets similar to this... you can make your own with 2.5x1/4" boxed tubing:
BKT3240_md.jpg


some of this stuff:
78xover.jpg


a little bit of this:
measuring+tape.jpg


remember to do this twice:
images


a little bit of this action:
cutting-dom-tubing


some if this:
New-Product-Alert-Super-Blue-Drop-In-Welding-Lens.jpg


do a little of this:
stock-footage-tightening-a-nut-bolt-with-a-adjustable-wrench.jpg


dont forget these:
2r5gsqs.jpg




and youve got yourself a much more proven suspension system... my concern really doesnt lie on the 10mm bolt, its the flimsy bracket that is supposed to control all of the rotational force of the axle.


I know a guy that can get you all that shit
 
Questions for Craig that he can't answer:

1). Is the bolt that was in the upper the hardened metric bolt originally supplied with the kit?

2). Could the bolt have been loose and worked it's way out?


1.) yes...i used their hardware and their instructions to install it. the only exception to that was the crossmember bolts...i had to tap them one size bigger because some of the threads stripped out. however, that should no way effect what happened

2.) of course...when i first put the kit on i would periodically check it for tightness since i had actually heard rumors about the bolt failing/coming loose. as i put more and more miles on it (probably has 15k on it since installing it last july) ill admit i haven't checked it in a while. my only concern with that is that it shouldn't be possible for a suspension bolt to work its way free. i really worry that what ken stated is true, that there is some fundamental flaw with the design that causes the bolt to back out. im just curious how many guys check their suspension bolts religiously? i try to periodically, but i guess i got a little complacent since i've never had a bolt work its way loose on any suspension parts i've installed on my rig or on other peoples rigs...


at this point i've slept 5 hours in the last 2 nights (2 in a hotel and 3 of which were on the floor of grand central station and on various train rides), i'm hungry, frustrated, sore from working on the jeep in a parking lot, a little homesick and i feel a little trapped. i honestly need a good nights sleep and a clear head to process things but i do know this 1.) i'm safe and not injured 2.) the jeep is fixable, the tow truck driver did everything in his power to get it on and off safely 3.) the jeep is somewhere it can stay for a while if need be. clayton and his guys were absolutely awesome and are willing to do what ever i chose to do. at this point im going to send josh and jason at iro another email with some of the pictures i took and an explanation of everything that has happened and everything i still need to do. im fully willing to take 50% of the responsibility in this situation, and its up to them if they want to reciprocate. i don't expect them to contribute to anything if they don't want to, but i will leave that decision up to them. i'm not going to be filing any sort of formal claim against them because its not good for either party. at the very least, if they can take some time and look at the design of their set up, i would be happy with that.

for now, i'm giving up the few days i had at home and staying in the city until thursday since i had work lined up until then. here are the options i have with the jeep...i'm just curious what ya'll think (clearly i know what one i would like to do but with all the money i've spent the last few days, i don't know if its feasible)

1.) have clayton install a 3 link and call it good price $1756.26. i would do the install myself, but since its immobile and in their shop, i don't really have that option

2.) have clayton "repair" the iro arm...and basically do what ya'll are talkign about with dan's rig using clayton components...cost about $480

3.) bend the iro components back into place and make the rig trailerable at the very least so i can drag it where i need to...cost labor at $100/hr

4.) cut my losses and try to sell the jeep locally...not something i want to do, but honestly all the stress this has caused has made me think about this several times today.

5.) order an iro arm and have it shipped to clayton and then have either them or myself put it on...either way it would be coming off asap.

clayton said i can let it sit in their lot for a while if needed


also...sorry for the epic novels the last few days, but unfortunately ya'll are about the only one that understand my frustrations
 
I'm sure it relates to trespassing. They probably told him to leave, and obviously his heep is not in a condition to leave, so they went full stupid and threatened him.

trespassing and liability...i understand both, but its certainly the nature of people in that area to be as unhelpful as possible
 
2 sounds like it'll get you to a wheelable, driveable, trustworthy vehicle fastest.

1 sounds like you will get the best vehicle out of it in the end.

4 and 5 sound like slow, annoying processes that aren't going to net you what you want. You'd have to part it out to get any sort of good price for it and people suck to deal with IMO.

Are you still in the area? I am about to leave work, was gonna work on the 5 ton tonight but weather is shit for that. I have a dolly and can tow you a ways, but 120 miles to your old shop is probably a really poor choice since I'd be towing a built XJ with my XJ.

I can also haul a set of stock UCAs and bolts down if you want to try using the stock UCA and IRO links acting as LCAs method I mentioned earlier. It'll have some very strange characteristics when braking and accelerating but remember, the first Teraflex longarm kit on the market used exactly that setup. It resulted in a lot of pinion dive when accelerating or jumping and a lot of pinion rise when landing or braking, but... it worked-ish.

I am probably heading to the Broad Brook area anyways so Waterbury wouldn't be that far out of my way, honestly. I *think* I even have a set of stock upper control arms sitting around not installed on a jeep.
 
i took a train back into the city...i got ahold of a friend and i'm going to stay there tonight. there is a pretty good chance i'm picking up a day of work tomorrow, which will help make up for the full work day i lost the day of the accident.
 
2 sounds like it'll get you to a wheelable, driveable, trustworthy vehicle fastest.

1 sounds like you will get the best vehicle out of it in the end.

Agreed. It might be a little more expensive however you can "wash" your hands of it, be done and have a nice driveable vehicle.
 
Good morning!!


I want some pancakes!


wife said she would make me some but she is still sleeping. She will probably wait until I leave in a couple hours and then make some for her and the baby.

cuz she is an ass
 
Morning everyone!

Lots of yard-work planned for today, starting with trying to get the old Deere lawnmower running. Need to go to school and get the battery for it as well as an air tank to air up the jeep tire and find out why it went flat...

Then making a flower/veggie bed for the wife and installing the garbage disposal I never got around to a month ago...
 
For the first time in a long time I kept track of the mileage in the heep.

163 miles on 14.7 gallons of gas for 11.08 mpg.


What kind of driving?

Last tank I kept track of was 13.02 corrected, mostly highway with some extended idling.
 
All it takes is one major failure like that to render a kit crap to me. Any idiot can look at the iro kit and see a huge weak point in that bracket. Its too much of a risk when your talking about something thats road driven.


I dont know why everyone has always been with them. Everything ive ever purchased from them is shit, i bought two tierods and both had such poorly cut threads that no end would thread in, even new ones.

Bolt failure or thread out or whatever. A bigger bolt and simpler bracket is cheap insurance. Im glad you and everyone involved are ok but im smart enough not to let any cheap ass IRO products near my junk


Short"poor but not stupid"xjdoug
 
actually...after a good night sleep, im pretty much set on option 2 or option 5...

in fact option 5 sounds the best to me, and here is why. with option 2 i still have a set of arms that took a good shot in an accident and got drug onto a tow truck. do they have weak spots? who knows, i've already had enough adventures with weak points that i really don't want another. also with no adjustability, if one arm is tweaked at all then that could cause some serious alignment issues. i've also always had an issue with the passenger side arm hitting my exhaust downpipe (which is why i was planning on buying the rk kit in july to install) the other thing that i have actually never liked about the kit is that for me personally, the crossmember was actually a pain to get on. It didn't really line up perfectly and took a good amount of muscle to get it in place. i have no idea if it was my unibody rails or the crossmember itself, but i've also seen a few pics like this:

10357808_620689797774_181962721_n_zps2d95ac34.jpg


i guess for me...i don't really want any part of this kit on my jeep anymore. i just dont feel good about it. with option 5, if i can get IRO to send me a new driver side arm (even if i have to ship the old one back) for free, then at least i can get it home with only paying for labor and new shocks from clayton...and i would at least have something i could sell to get some of the money back i'm already out. i would give full disclosure with the sale, but someone would still buy them i'm sure. then i could have the option to buy whatever kit i decided to use from there and i would have the jeep home in my garage to do the work myself. i'm trying to get ahold of josh and jason today, but i'm fairly certain they don't work on saturdays
 
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