Important

I like the idea of leaving most of my driver radius arm as is. Use the Currie modified jj, and make an adjustable end on the top arm.

4ugu2yba.jpg
 
Well lots of action today...so I'll sum up. Shop owner is trying to have me arrested if I continue to work on my jeep...iro wasn't much help since they don't know anyone out here, but they want to see pictures of the uca so they can figure out what happened...not sure what they will do. Just signed up for aaa and they are on the way to tow me to claytons shop...he said no matter if I can afford a full kit or not, they will help get me moving again at the very least.

I wish would have known right away that they were only 30 miles from where I am...I would have jus have them tow me there
 
I would cut the IRO upper off and make an upper that goes to tabs on the lower. Just putting an adjustable end on the IRO upper wont work because it needs to be able to pivot slightly to line up when adjusted.

And yes... what Walt said. The IRO setup is the only one of its kind for a reason and this modification will essentially make it into a more conventional bolt-on radius arm, which I would be far more comfotable running as long as it is combined with a 1/2 or 9/16 bolt.

Edit: WTF they are trying to have you arrested?!
 
Doctors don't think it's funny when you tell them you hooked the air compressor up to your right ear and tried to blow the ear wax through and out your left ear.
 
I would cut off the upper on the IRO kit weld a treaded bung in and run something like the bottom arm in this picture. should give enough mis-alignment at the bushing to work, I think.
SRF-UCA-F.JPG


edit: I think this is the same idea Wheeler had...
 
I too have talked to iro today. Here's my plan for the minute...

They sell a 12mm upgrade, (12mm=.476"), with a flex joint to replace the stock bushing. Cost was $40ish, but I bought a tool to insert the bushing for another $25. I probably did t need the tool, but $25 to make my life simple is cheap.

They don't have issues with their arms, and they don't believe there has ever been a bolt break.

Questions for Craig that he can't answer:

1). Is the bolt that was in the upper the hardened metric bolt originally supplied with the kit?

2). Could the bolt have been loose and worked it's way out?

Me playing devil's advocate:

Without having the broken bolt to prove it broke, it's feasible to think it may have just come out. I would think the possibility of having a piece of the broken bolt (if it broke) still within the arm or bushing would be good.

I don't know. Just throwing theories out.
 
Damn Craig, just saw this. That sucks!
 
USPS had an issue with the rear bracket tie ins for my bumper that Ares sent, they supposedly didn't know I didn't get it until I emailed. They sent another one earlier this week and got it today. Time to get a time to paint the parts and get them on.

Going to pick up my friends JKU possibly next weekend and keep it at my place until he gets home from his team long haul truck driving job. I just need to drive it every once in a while, no problem.
 
I too have talked to iro today. Here's my plan for the minute...

They sell a 12mm upgrade, (12mm=.476"), with a flex joint to replace the stock bushing. Cost was $40ish, but I bought a tool to insert the bushing for another $25. I probably did t need the tool, but $25 to make my life simple is cheap.

They don't have issues with their arms, and they don't believe there has ever been a bolt break.

Questions for Craig that he can't answer:

1). Is the bolt that was in the upper the hardened metric bolt originally supplied with the kit?

2). Could the bolt have been loose and worked it's way out?

Me playing devil's advocate:

Without having the broken bolt to prove it broke, it's feasible to think it may have just come out. I would think the possibility of having a piece of the broken bolt (if it broke) still within the arm or bushing would be good.

I don't know. Just throwing theories out.

The flaw in the design is that no matter how tight you make that bolt, it's over a slot that's close to the edge of a piece of what, 1/8" flat stock? Which is over a slot in a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 stock, with the slots crossed?

It's going to take a substantial amount of bolt preload tension (far more than it would through a regular hole) and a very substantial bushing inner sleeve wall thickness to make me comfortable with that setup. In fact, by the time you put enough preload on it, you're risking coning the washer or head of the bolt and spreading the slot in the caster adjuster apart instead. Vibration and suspension force will only exacerbate this problem.

Basically what I'm saying is that I'm really not comfortable with a slotted bracket like that being the single point of failure. Especially when it's two stacked up slots going in opposite directions. Doing that, you're gonna cut the surface area that's being preloaded effectively by a HUGE amount - I'd say something like 50% (when you've already eliminated half your upper control arms) SWAG, I can run the numbers if you want. And that's not even taking into account the fact that the part is powdercoated (and thus must be retorqued after the powdercoat works its way out of the joint... because it will) and the issue with the preload trying to spread the two sides of the slot apart.

The factory got away with this kind of setup on the LCAs on the TJ and ZJ because they used a large flange headed bolt, thick inner bushing sleeves (more contact area), and made sure the slot was far from the edge of the metal stock it was in, which helps prevent the sides of the slot from spreading apart. And they only did one slot, rather than two crossing slots in two different pieces of metal, which makes it a lot easier to handle.

If they used any other setup I would be perfectly happy with it. It's just plain not a sound design mechanically. By the time the design is changed enough to make it sound, it's easier to just use a link, some tabs, and a pair of heims or bushings like... every other stock-axle capable radius arm setup available that allows caster adjustment.

So yeah, I'd bet that the failure mode was this:
* Bolt preload went down after install due to paint/powdercoat on (very minimal) contact areas between upper leg of control arm and inner bushing sleeve ends
* Bolt sheared, or the nut simply vibrated loose once preload was below spec.
* axle goes walkabout

It may seem like I am harping on this needlessly but this is literally the third time I have seen this suspension kit fail in exactly the same way after it was installed by someone I would trust to work on my rig any day without me watching. And it will not be the last.

Another of the NAC guys: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1055578
Altrocker's
And either Shawn Connors or Colin Channell (I forget which, always get those two confused) had exactly the same thing happen offroad a few years ago, ruined all the same parts, had to get dragged out and flatbed ride home.

If this is not heeded it is only a matter of time until someone loses their life. I am really, really glad that didn't happen to Craig, like he said, a few minutes before he was doing 60.
 
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come on dan... do it right.

couple brackets similar to this... you can make your own with 2.5x1/4" boxed tubing:
BKT3240_md.jpg


some of this stuff:
78xover.jpg


a little bit of this:
measuring+tape.jpg


remember to do this twice:
images


a little bit of this action:
cutting-dom-tubing


some if this:
New-Product-Alert-Super-Blue-Drop-In-Welding-Lens.jpg


do a little of this:
stock-footage-tightening-a-nut-bolt-with-a-adjustable-wrench.jpg


dont forget these:
2r5gsqs.jpg




and youve got yourself a much more proven suspension system... my concern really doesnt lie on the 10mm bolt, its the flimsy bracket that is supposed to control all of the rotational force of the axle.
 
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