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6 years ago i got hitched, she is a good woman for putting up with me
 
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Went to Mission impossible yesterday, didn't do the actual mission Impossible trail obviously but there are a lot of trails out there that are pretty challenging, and those are the easy ones. I got less body damage than I thought which is good but it made a lot of funny noises! :D All I gotta say is that if you make it through that rock garden over there, you deserve a Beer afterwards! That is INSANE! :eek:
 
I realize that tech Q's are generally verboten here but I only have 2 questions and I don't want to start a whole thread to do it.

1) What size wrench do I need for the top 2 bolts (behind the head) that hold the bell housing to the engine block? They seem to be different then the 2 on the sides.

2) HTF did you get to them??? I want to pull the motor w/o taking the tranny out. To lower the back end of the trans means I have to remove the cross member and that means removing the entire front diff/suspension since it's all tied to it.

These 2 bolts are all thats holding me up from pulling the engine or setting the whole pile on fire. :gonnablow:

It's a '98 for those who don't know me
 
_Side note_

Whilst waiting for the great knowledge of the midwest to stir up an answer to my perplexing questions, I decided to wander around the members forum to see what's up.

All I can say is there sure are a lot of people on NAXJA that will argue about anything and everything. Over and over and over....


I'm glad it's so peaceful here in the midwest!! :laugh3:
 
I'm sure someone else will chime in, but I believe they are either a 12pt or an inverted torx, what size I do not recollect...
 
Steve,

They are an E12 reverse torx. They are easiest to get to with a shit load of extensions and a wobbleer (sp?). Undo your rear drive shaft from the t-case, support the t-case w/ a jack under the cross member and take out the cross member bolts, then let the jack down a bit to give you enough room to get your socket, extensions and wobbler up in there. If you have another person it is helpful to have them hold pressure on that socket so it does not slip off and strip the edges..then your are F'd in the A!! I have swapped out plenty of motors and that is what I always do to get the two parted. You dp have the flywheel unbolted, right? I will PM you my number if you have any more questions. :thumbup:
 
I don't remember the size but they are the inverted torx, and you have to have about 8 feet of extensions and you have to come from behind the crossmember to get to them. Or you may be able to get the engine hoist on it and take the motor mounts loose and let the engine drop a few inches to get in there.


Parakeet
 
I always pulled head prior to taking out motor. Never had one of those bar deals so hooked chains to old head bolts. You can get to them with a wrench, with the head off.
 
XJ&CHZ4ME said:
Steve,

They are an E12 reverse torx. They are easiest to get to with a shit load of extensions and a wobbleer (sp?). Undo your rear drive shaft from the t-case, support the t-case w/ a jack under the cross member and take out the cross member bolts, then let the jack down a bit to give you enough room to get your socket, extensions and wobbler up in there. If you have another person it is helpful to have them hold pressure on that socket so it does not slip off and strip the edges..then your are F'd in the A!! I have swapped out plenty of motors and that is what I always do to get the two parted. You dp have the flywheel unbolted, right? I will PM you my number if you have any more questions. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's the way I hope I don't have to go. Like I said, the entire suspension is connected to the crossmember and that would be a crap-ton of work just to remove 2 bolts. PM back at ya!

4wdParakeet said:
I don't remember the size but they are the inverted torx, and you have to have about 8 feet of extensions and you have to come from behind the crossmember to get to them. Or you may be able to get the engine hoist on it and take the motor mounts loose and let the engine drop a few inches to get in there.

Parakeet
Click to expand...

I went back out and looked it over and I think this may work. There is a lot of room to drop the motor down... it will def work on the driver side one, the hardest one is on the pass side but that might give me enough room to get to it.


kmanxj5050 said:
I always pulled head prior to taking out motor. Never had one of those bar deals so hooked chains to old head bolts. You can get to them with a wrench, with the head off.
Click to expand...

This would work also, especially sinse I plan on stripping the motor anyway just to see what went wrong but it won't help putting in a new long block. Again, that's a lot of extra work for just 2 bolts.

I'm not against cutting a big hole in the firewall from inside the cab if all else fails! :cool:
 
I wish I could say something good for the Colts...

All I can say is it looks like one of my fantasy teams is off to a week 1 win, though it's not done.
 
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