Michael McAtee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Redding, CA
I am also assuming that. I'm currently looking for a zj steer box to port.(zj's have a dropped pitman arm...i think)
-
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Hydro-Assist just got cheaper! under $100
- Thread starter BrettM
- Start date
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Michael McAtee said:
yup a 1" drop
check Brett's buildup thread on pirate (in his sig) for a pic...
opehesox
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, WA
This should definately be a sticky.... Thanks for doing all the research! I'll be ordering a full setup this week. 
- Location
- Yucaipa, CA
Brett, if the ram still has more stroke when the steering hits the stops, will the pressure relief valve in the pump stop sending pressure to the ram, so it won't tear the knuckles off? How's that for a run-on sentence??
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
Michael McAtee said:
CHEEZIE, but it will work. My 3/4ton suburban 6.5in lift uses a multi poly bushing system to drop the steering linkage for the IFS. It uses tierod ends but the bushings help locate the drop linkage.
If you used smaller polly bushings and thick tubing, not 11aug tubing It should be ok but you will notice more slop in the steering.
I have bushings on my leaf springs that allow for abit of movement where as my ram is hard mounted. On turns my leafs allow some side to side flex and my ram holds its ground, this causes a turn alittle more, turn allittle less, turn alittle more type feal on even turns. My suburban does the same thing.
Heims would be worth the cost, but cheapie, super chapie heims could brake if they brake thats alot less safe then cheap polly bushings that wont fail but will get more sloppy over time.
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
Dan Turner said:
It could brake your knuckle. It wont stop.
You can take it apart and add washers to the inside of the ram. Do not block the ports. The ram will not crush the washers inside the ram. The best way is to mount the ram to a steering arm drilled for the 8in stroke ram you have. If you need to add ALOT of washers you can also cut the cylinder and re-weld it (welded cylinder), or like a Cheif style ram you can just cut the tube and bolt the end caps onto the shorter tube.
bj-666
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rhode Island
anyone have schematics of the box or a step by step for tearing it apart to drill the holes?
offroadman83
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Edinburg Texas
For the guys wanting to run this on the stock steering and stock knuckles------------I would not do it. The rams force would be way to much for the crappy stock tie rod and knuckles on the dana turdie======Kyle
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
I agree, and you can't do a ram without heims on an inverted Y steering, you need a knuckle-to-knuckle tie-rod.offroadman83 said:
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
I took my time doing the box and that was about 2 hours. Then just mount the ram, which depending on how you do that could take 20 minutes or a few hours. We need CRASH to post pics of his, he did it a few weeks ago with the same ram as me but he put heims on the ends and did a very nice job, especially with his *bling* tie-rod clamp.cracker said:
Michael McAtee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Redding, CA
anbody know about using a cushion valvle plumbed into the system. Like mabe this one:::: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005062622231814&item=9-5262&catname=hydraulic
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
why?
there are thousands of people out there with hydro assist and not using a cushion valve, and I don't know of any that do.
there are thousands of people out there with hydro assist and not using a cushion valve, and I don't know of any that do.
SeanP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rocklin, CA
Brett, what are you doing to make sure that the throw of the ram doesn't exceed the steering stops? I know quite a few folks overlooked this and wonder why they are cracking their 44 and 60 knuckles. My high steer arms are shorter than most and for this reason I am thinking a 6" ram would be better than an 8" so I don't over throw the steering.
SeanP
SeanP
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
the throw of my tie-rod is actually right on at 8", I've got the steering stops set to hit at the same time as the ram maxes and that leaves just a little before the yokes contact.SeanP said:
these rams are real easy to take apart if you want to add a spacer to shorten the throw, I think delrin would be a good choice for that job.
SeanP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rocklin, CA
BrettM said:
Cool. Thanks for guinea pigging this stuff. I'll ping you when I get around to doing this project.
SeanP
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
sure thing, I'll have at lease 3 inches of 1.5" Delrin rod left over from my 3 link project, you can use it to limit your ram if you like.SeanP said:
jephs422
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mission viejo CA
I'm getting ready to do mine next week. All of my parts just came in from the surplus place. Question for you guys though. WIll I need to pull my entire box apart if I do not plan on rebuilding it? Can I simply drill and tap, and clean clean clean......
ashmanjeepxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vail AZ, Jimmy's Cherokee Buggy
jephs422 said:
If you drill and tap it as I recommend you need to take the box apart.
you will drill right into the piston and ruin it and get metal shaving in there...
You can tap the box like this and not take it apart.. but this is not reliable and the end cap on an XJ does not have room to add a fitting. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS. If the fittings were correctly welded to these caps not just tapped it would be ok, but I dont have a tig welder for the aluminum cap.
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
You need to pull the box apart, but you don't need to pull the internals apart as much as Ashman did to replace all the seals and stuff.jephs422 said:
