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HP Super 30 VS. LP D44 w/axleshafts?

hot_rod_hooligans

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indianapolis
Just as it says, I've looked and didn't really see the answer I was looking for. I may be heading off for a 10 month deployment in sept so I'll have a bit of money built up when I get back, but have a decent list of mods so I want to get the most bang for the buck. XJ D44 with a Super44 kit is planed for the rear, prob ZJ discs too. Debating on a HP Super30 or a Rubi D44 w/ chromolys and an ARB f/r. I know I can get a D30 for a fraction of the cost, which would allow for things like high steer conversion and other steering upgrades. Prob get the tubes welded and such too while I was building it. I don't plan on going ay lower than 4.56's for a LONG time and if I get to that point it'll have D60's.
 
go for a full size 44 ( i have an hp44 for sale in the nac section with a matching 60) Seriously though, run the d30 with an arb with 30 spline shafts. Basically the same strength as the rubi 44 and you get the high pinion.. Or better yet buy a new JK rubicon axle
 
Lol, trying to maintain a "bolt on" set up, otherwise I would have looked into the Waggy's/JK's. I don't have access to the tools or the skill to fab the work myself, and though there are several shops near by that could do the work, I'd prefer not to let someone else work on my Jeep unless I have to (too many f*ck ups in the past in other peoples hands). The only thing I plan on letting someone else do is set up the diffs, and weld the tubes.
 
I can put xj mounts on the hp 44 and d60 if your interested, you would just have to let me know where to put the trackbar mount.. What size tires are you going to run? Id only run 33's on a d30 then you know you are very safe. 35's can be questionable if you use the skinny pedal a lot!
 
I will prob run 33's and plan on bumping the lift up to a RE 4.5". I would like to see if I couldn't go long arm but not finding much, with out getting a RE 5.5" long arm, and going with 4.5" springs, and then I'll always have the option to go 5.5" very easily.
 
IMO, HP30 > LP44

I have a 30, sleeved and trussed, arb, 30 spline inners, ctm's, 30 spline outers, WJ convetered, crane Crmo diff cover .. i could go on for a while, but trust me that i have every upgrade that can be done, and I spent a TON of money.

I'd do it all again, before I'd do a low pinion 44.

Save yourself the trouble and do an HP 44, or buy JK axles front and rear. Best bang for the buck right now.
 
i disagree with cal....you could spend the same amount of money on a waggy 44 amd have stronger outers/inners an MUCH stronger carrier and bigger ring gear/ thincker axletubes(now you dont have to sleeve) and you can truss it to be even STRONGER!


now that i went OT since you dont want waggys...rubi 44 has little weak dana 30 outers and knuckles

i belive Dutchman has 35 spline inners and ARB makes a locker for them. this way the only thing that will break is a Ujoint. which is an easy trail fix with the right tools.

spec for spec, tested vs tested. the dana 44 will come out on top with the same $$$ upgrades...or stock for that matter

the negitive thing about rubis is that they wave weak dana 30 outers :twak: and an odd ball houseing IIRC. dana30<rubi44<waggy 44<hp 44
 
There is no comparing a real Dana 44 to a 30... Unless your someone with Way to much $ in a turdy. The D-30 is a 1/4 ton light duty axle. The D-44 Low Pinion was used in 1/2, 3/4 and some 1 Ton Full size trucks for 30 years ?

The HP VS. LP debate is not really one of strength, LP 44's are not spitting out ring gears any more frequent than HP (And there are a TON more on the road). In Theory the ring / pinion contact area is less on the drive side making it weaker.... You do get better driveline angles, but I have never beat the yoke of a LP 44 that a HP would have survived lol. ~Ace~
 
~Ace~~ said:
There is no comparing a real Dana 44 to a 30... Unless your someone with Way to much $ in a turdy. The D-30 is a 1/4 ton light duty axle. The D-44 Low Pinion was used in 1/2, 3/4 and some 1 Ton Full size trucks for 30 years ?

The HP VS. LP debate is not really one of strength, LP 44's are not spitting out ring gears any more frequent than HP (And there are a TON more on the road). In Theory the ring / pinion contact area is less on the drive side making it weaker.... You do get better driveline angles, but I have never beat the yoke of a LP 44 that a HP would have survived lol. ~Ace~

My opinion is stated almost exactly in the quote above.
 
ChrisRFewell said:
i disagree with cal....you could spend the same amount of money on a waggy 44 amd have stronger outers/inners an MUCH stronger carrier and bigger ring gear/ thincker axletubes(now you dont have to sleeve) and you can truss it to be even STRONGER!

30 spline is 30 spline. It doesnt cost anymore to buy a 30 spline arb/shafts for your dana 30 than it does to buy 27 spline arb/shafts. Oh wait, the waggy 44 doesnt HAVE 30 spline outer shafts, they are only 19 spline. And the same u-joint. Stronger carrier? go ahead, break a couple of carriers and post up some pics. And the waggy 44 ring gear is indeed bigger - but since its low pinion and you are on the coast side, it has a smaller contact patch than a 30 would.. and I've never seen a trussed 30 bend, how much stronger does it really need to be?

The only thing a waggy 44 gets you over a 30 is bigger ball joints, but not very much bigger, and at the cost of worse driveline angles, weaker stubs, and a ton of fabrication.

ChrisRFewell said:
now that i went OT since you dont want waggys...rubi 44 has little weak dana 30 outers and knuckles

Yes, but the JK 44, which is what was suggested here, has 32 spline stubs, full crossover steering, bigger balljoints..

ChrisRFewell said:
i belive Dutchman has 35 spline inners and ARB makes a locker for them. this way the only thing that will break is a Ujoint. which is an easy trail fix with the right tools.

So does alloy-usa, superior, etc. They use dana 60 u-joints, not 760's, and require going to 1 ton outers - an MAJOR project.

ChrisRFewell said:
spec for spec, tested vs tested. the dana 44 will come out on top with the same $$$ upgrades...or stock for that matter

Bring your 44. I'll put it up against my 30 any day of the week, and you *WILL* break first, assuming of course you havent gone 35 spline with 60 outers - but maybe even then.

ChrisRFewell said:
the negitive thing about rubis is that they wave weak dana 30 outers :twak: and an odd ball houseing IIRC. dana30<rubi44<waggy 44<hp 44

Go learn about current Rubi 44's, and then come back to play.
 
cal said:
30 spline is 30 spline. It doesnt cost anymore to buy a 30 spline arb/shafts for your dana 30 than it does to buy 27 spline arb/shafts. Oh wait, the waggy 44 doesnt HAVE 30 spline outer shafts, they are only 19 spline. And the same u-joint. Stronger carrier? go ahead, break a couple of carriers and post up some pics. And the waggy 44 ring gear is indeed bigger - but since its low pinion and you are on the coast side, it has a smaller contact patch than a 30 would.. and I've never seen a trussed 30 bend, how much stronger does it really need to be?

The only thing a waggy 44 gets you over a 30 is bigger ball joints, but not very much bigger, and at the cost of worse driveline angles, weaker stubs, and a ton of fabrication.



Yes, but the JK 44, which is what was suggested here, has 32 spline stubs, full crossover steering, bigger balljoints..



So does alloy-usa, superior, etc. They use dana 60 u-joints, not 760's, and require going to 1 ton outers - an MAJOR project.



Bring your 44. I'll put it up against my 30 any day of the week, and you *WILL* break first, assuming of course you havent gone 35 spline with 60 outers - but maybe even then.



Go learn about current Rubi 44's, and then come back to play.

1) no you would not have to do 60 outers. with 35 spline inners.
2) i was refering to the rear i should have stated that( a 35 spline rear dana 44 is just as strong as a 14 bolt shaft wise)
3) you have spent more money on your 30 than i have my 44 so it may be stronger for the moment(just wait till i spend the amount of $$ you have)
4)and i did not see you had a JK 44 TJ rubis are POS
5) with wa waggy axl you have lock out hubs so your driveline angle is not much of an issue on the street(at 8" lift i BARELY have a vibe on the street with hubs locked)
6) stop talking out your ass...to compare 2 axles we would have to have EXACT same setup in order to get a accurate axle..if you have your setup and 33"s you will last longer as i run 37"s on stock 44 with MUCH LESS money in the axle than you do....
7) as mentioned above dana 30 is a 1/4 ton axle dana 44 is a 1/2,3/4,1ton axle...this way even the people who dont know tech can figure it out

dana30<dana 44 !!!1 !!!1 !!!1 !!!1

man some people...
 
cal said:
30 spline is 30 spline. It doesnt cost anymore to buy a 30 spline arb/shafts for your dana 30 than it does to buy 27 spline arb/shafts. Oh wait, the waggy 44 doesnt HAVE 30 spline outer shafts, they are only 19 spline. And the same u-joint. Stronger carrier? go ahead, break a couple of carriers and post up some pics. And the waggy 44 ring gear is indeed bigger - but since its low pinion and you are on the coast side, it has a smaller contact patch than a 30 would.. and I've never seen a trussed 30 bend, how much stronger does it really need to be.

go ask about a dana 44 35 spline ARB...it costs more
 
ChrisRFewell said:
7) as mentioned above dana 30 is a 1/4 ton axle dana 44 is a 1/2,3/4,1ton axle...this way even the people who dont know tech can figure it out

Just to let you know, a D44 is only a 1/2 axle...and maybe a 3/4 ton in some cases.

Also, there is a big difference between how companies rate their axles (1/4 ton, 1/2, 3/4) for use and how we actually use them.

Towing, hauling, etc require more ring gear strength. Trail riding requires more axleshaft strength. And these are generalizations keep in mind.

Therefore as Cal said, if you have 30 spline shafts...its a 30 spline shaft.

BTW, the only argument you've laid forth is "well...it's a 1/2 ton axle and a D30 is a 1/4 ton axle"

That's nice...
 
Ok, I guess I need to be a little more specific; Hp D30 from an XJ or LP D44 from a TJ Rubi, both would have 30 spline chromoly axle shafts, ARB air locker, welded tubes, 4.10 or 4.56 gears, and ZJ knuckles. Waggy and JK axles are not being considered, do to the amount of fabrication needed to make them fit
 
ChrisRFewell said:
1) no you would not have to do 60 outers. with 35 spline inners.


Find me a 35 spline shaft that runs 760's. Give me a url or part number.

ChrisRFewell said:
2) i was refering to the rear i should have stated that( a 35 spline rear dana 44 is just as strong as a 14 bolt shaft wise)

You do sorta need to point out if you start talking about rear yes, but what works in the rear is irrelevant to a discussion about front axles.

And I'm running a 35 spline dana 44 rear. Its nowhere near as strong as a 14 bolt - in fact, the shafts have so little give I think the pinion will break sooner than it would with a 33 spline 44 rear. Yeah, the shafts arent going to break, that doesnt mean its stronger.

ChrisRFewell said:
3) you have spent more money on your 30 than i have my 44 so it may be stronger for the moment(just wait till i spend the amount of $$ you have)

I probably haven't, actually. I have better parts than you do yes, but I'm willing to bet I spent less money.

ChrisRFewell said:
4)and i did not see you had a JK 44 TJ rubis are POS

I don't have a JK 44, but the rubi axles being suggested here did specify JK, I'm sorry you didn't read the thread. :)

ChrisRFewell said:
5) with wa waggy axl you have lock out hubs so your driveline angle is not much of an issue on the street(at 8" lift i BARELY have a vibe on the street with hubs locked)

Driveline vibes are just as bad for your rig offroad as they are on road. Unless you never go faster than about 15 mph offroad, its still an issue.

ChrisRFewell said:
6) stop talking out your ass...to compare 2 axles we would have to have EXACT same setup in order to get a accurate axle..if you have your setup and 33"s you will last longer as i run 37"s on stock 44 with MUCH LESS money in the axle than you do....

Talking out of my ass? I'm not talking out of my ass. *I'M RUNNING THIS GEAR*. I run it side by side with guys that have 44's, 60's, 609's. The Rubicon. The hammers. I'm for sure not the most hardcore guy on the runs, but anyone I wheel with will tell you I do NOT HOLD BACK, and have ZERO fear in my dana 30 breaking. I don't even carry spare shafts for it anymore. And as far as 37's goes, I'll run 37's on my dana 30 any day of the week, and still hold no fear for it. I don't have 37's on it because I still have fun on 35's.

ChrisRFewell said:
7) as mentioned above dana 30 is a 1/4 ton axle dana 44 is a 1/2,3/4,1ton axle...this way even the people who dont know tech can figure it out

Like i said, bring it. When you get to where the big boys are - Johnson Valley - and ask the guys who replaced their dana 30's with dana 44's - almost every one of them will tell you it was probably a waste of money, and to keep your 30 until you are ready to go 60/609.
 
cal said:
Like i said, bring it. When you get to where the big boys are - Johnson Valley - and ask the guys who replaced their dana 30's with dana 44's - almost every one of them will tell you it was probably a waste of money, and to keep your 30 until you are ready to go 60/609.

ive never been out west but the people i know who have say east coast is much hardersince we dont have 80 grit sand paper to wheel on...

but back on topic a dana 30 is not a shitty axle if you go no more than 35:" tire it will be fine with not too much skinny petal. a HP 44 would be the best way but if funds dont allow..stick with the 30. but as many have said already...you definalty will NOT go wrong UPGRADING to a dana 44:party:
 
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