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hows your brakes on 37s and a dana 30?

when you are braking them in, the 45-15 thing works, however, don't just stop on the side of the road to cool them down. drive it around for 10 or 15 minutes and try to avoid using them. if you have to stop, use the e-brake to hold yourself in place. don't just sit with your foot on the pedal.

I was told not to use them while they're cooling down, just to sit there and don't touch the brakes. I suppose driving around works too, it would probably cool them off faster. I didn't mean you should sit there on the brake the whole time though, just throw it in park and turn it off (or turn it off and put it in gear with a manual).

Most performance brake pads come with bedding instructions. They vary from company to company, so read the literature.
Do agree that a proper break in in crucial for maximum performance.

I've never purchased performance brake pads myself, if I do I'll be sure to read the instructions. I've never received break-in instructions with any pads / rotors.. Then again, I haven't purchased any, I've just helped install them.

My opinion is that your brakes never work as good as they can if you don't break them in properly. :thumbup:
 
I was told not to use them while they're cooling down, just to sit there and don't touch the brakes. I suppose driving around works too, it would probably cool them off faster. I didn't mean you should sit there on the brake the whole time though, just throw it in park and turn it off (or turn it off and put it in gear with a manual).

you should use them sparingly or not at all during the cool-down, hence why I said use the e-brake :rtm:

and on that note, I'm going to head out and break in my new Black Magic pads on my Vanco 16" brakes :D
 
and on that note, I'm going to head out and break in my new Black Magic pads on my Vanco 16" brakes :D

Break them in right, according to the instructions that Blaine includes, and you are going to love them.
Did they come with the upgraded 48-mm Sport-Trac calipers? Up-sizing to the larger calipers made a big difference.
 
Break them in right, according to the instructions that Blaine includes, and you are going to love them.
Did they come with the upgraded 48-mm Sport-Trac calipers? Up-sizing to the larger calipers made a big difference.

I am running the 16" BBK, it came with the 48mm calipers. I have been running the EBC yellows for about a year, just finished the first step of the break in procedure for the black magic pads. will repeat in the morning. when I picked the new pads and rotors up, blaine gave me a few hints on getting them broken in.
 
why would you ever put 37s on a dana 30, nevermind 39s?

You need WJ brakes at the very least.
 
why would you ever put 37s on a dana 30, nevermind 39s?

You need WJ brakes at the very least.

Im not sure how to answer this other than I have one friend on 37s on a 30 and 2 others on 39s on their 30 so i figured there was more out there than just in northern california running this setup ? For the reno_trails/rubicon/fordyce out here, you're not getting stuck as easily in the big deep holes with the 37s and 39s (same reason to go to 35s from 33s or 31s) , therefore less full throttling, and it sorta offsets the issue with breakage due to less throttle/bounce/land and catch traction/twist shaft or disintegrate an ear on a yoke. still break shafts tho. plus 30 shafts are cheap and easy to swap.

high performance raybestos rotors and yellowstuff pads should be here today. I figure ill be staying on 35s for while now, less braking and the power loss with 37s sucked bad , its already a dog going up the hill to the trails for long uphill stuff on the highway , which is weird with 4.88s but i also have added over 1000 pounds to the thing or more easily (35s and 4.88s) and then fully loaded with gear on top of that, and being at 8000ft+ i guess will do that.
 
i think he's having a blonde moment.
i still break/twist chromoly shafts on my d44.

on 35s?
pick a new line. do you trailer the thing? I would drive a lot different if i trailered my rig.

I haven't broken a single 30 shaft up front on 35s in the last 5 years, but i stay off the skinny pedal and don't mind taking a new line, worst case use the winch for the reason I bought it.
 
i was mostly just teasing you, but yea, i have twisted/broken some. i do not trailer, but we have some trails 10 minutes away that tend to bring out the worst in some people :D
not dificult trails, but there is a "rock playground" in the middle of it that can be pretty tempting to try once you've done everything else out there enough times. it just screams "come break your s**t!"
aaaand eventually you (i) do....
if it wasnt 10 minutes away, i wouldnt even be considering it.
 
i was mostly just teasing you, but yea, i have twisted/broken some. i do not trailer, but we have some trails 10 minutes away that tend to bring out the worst in some people :D
not dificult trails, but there is a "rock playground" in the middle of it that can be pretty tempting to try once you've done everything else out there enough times. it just screams "come break your s**t!"
aaaand eventually you (i) do....
if it wasnt 10 minutes away, i wouldnt even be considering it.

10 minute away trails will do that. you can limp the jeep home. i would gets nuts if i lived in reno. all the trails there are 10 mins from home, and they are freaking awesome wheeling.


auto anything sent me EBC yellowstuff pads for a grand wagoneer, not an XJ. I'm gonna keep the money on the return and buy some cheaper pads. black magic doesn't make them for my setup.

wheeling last weekend on niagara rim the brakes where holding the jeep just fine on a straight down , very loose hill, the steepest I've been on, so i think the brakes are fine. i did get the new performance rotors though, so ill grab some 60 oriellys carbon pads or something one of these days and call it done (non ceramics)

the temporary solution is keep the 35s, sell the 37s and keep the 30. I do every trail out here on 35s and 30. ill wait til i get some crazy built part out rig with awesome built axles and get it all for free after the part out....
 
what brake setup do you have in the front that BM doesn't sell pads for?
 
i think he's having a blonde moment.
i still break/twist chromoly shafts on my d44.

not everyone is as awesome as you.
LMAO! :roflmao:

I am running 37s on a 30... Don't break (knock on wood)

Really? ok ok ok but how many D30's have you blown to bits? :eyes:

You locked in that D30? Or you just running to Colorado Mills for the sales at Abercrombie Fitch?:D

J/K man! Well more power to you guys running BIG on a D30.. I sure as hell wouldn't, Just sayin..:peace:
 
I only ever have broken a U joint on 35s, but it was 100,000+ miles old. Its ARB, 4.88s, RCVs, trussed, crane cover. Has been driven in comfort to the trail, jumped, flopped, and generally abused, but always makes it to high school the next day and still usually has enough gas in it to take the girls to the mall!
Mall picture
2hebs3t.jpg

Doing work
14rwo9.jpg

jhvpqu.jpg


Now I would like to build some big boy axles soon, but hig hschool and college are getting in the way...
 
Jon, you really should swap to newer/better knuckles/brake calipers. FAARR better than renix crap. So, since you do not want to do the WJ swap. Swap some later one-piece knuckles and calipers.
 
staying on the 35s for now, swapped in some good pads and rotors front and rear, thing stops amazing.
going to link the rear soon, got pretty much everything together, almost, truss the top and back of the currie hi9. then save for an atlas.

after all of that is done, ill start saving for one tons and 39.5s and lots of brakes...
 
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