How will 31x10x50 duratracs look compared to my 30x9.50 cooper at3

Here's some picture reference. 3" lift, WJ lower control arms, Stock Ravine wheels, 31x10.50r15 Duratracs. With bump stops I didn't need to trim any. I'm assuming yours isn't lifted?

20140128_171422_zpsa649a0c5.jpg


Slightly better profile picture but the rear is obviously squating a little bit with the camper on the back.

20140116_172917_zps7cc481ea.jpg
 
cmahaff said:
Alright I put the duratracs on. I'm excited. They look cool. Definitely have to do some trimming now. And probably the WJ LCA. This guy at a local 4x4 shop was saying he'd rather have the stock XJ CAs because they are more flexible and under extreme stress they would be the ones to bend or break instead of the mounting bracket. Has anybody ever heard of this?
Click to expand...


He is right and wrong at the same time.

The stock LCA's are U shaped and not boxed so that they can twist when your suspension articulates. When WJ LCA's they are boxed and have hard rubber bushings on both ends, so as your suspension articulates it will stress the mounts on both ends. Eventually, the mounts on your axle side will tear off of the axle.

That said, with 1.75" lift and 31's, you probably aren't going to be articulating it a lot and it would be fine for a while.

The stock LCA's are also known to literally fold like a taco.

When the LCA mount goes, it looks something like this, and then tears off totally.

DSC01685.jpg



If you can find a local member with a welder, you can weld mini skids onto the LCA mounts fairly cheap that will help that. Its a simple task, and most members will help you with it for a 6 pack of fine beer.

IMG_1136-1.jpg


I suggest the ones from JKS Manufacturing.

http://jksmfg.com/i-9056868-fab-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-1984-2001-miniskid.html



As far as WJ LCA's go.. they are better than running the stock ones, but really you'd be best off to save your penny's and buy some Rubicon Express or similar ones that are intended for the way we use our vehicles. Better quality control arms will have a 'flex joint' of some type on one end or both, and allow the arms to twist without stressing anything.

I'd look at replacing the upper arms as well, they too have a habit of folding under duress.

http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...ywords=jeep+lower+control+arm+rubicon+express

http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...ywords=jeep+upper+control+arm+rubicon+express
 
Lowrange2 said:
Here's some picture reference. 3" lift, WJ lower control arms, Stock Ravine wheels, 31x10.50r15 Duratracs. With bump stops I didn't need to trim any. I'm assuming yours isn't lifted?
Click to expand...


It is lifted minimally. About 1.75 or so. Thanks for the pictures, I like that front bumper a lot. What is it?

u6u9umag.jpg


I know for sure I need to cut this part off.

cal said:
He is right and wrong at the same time.



The stock LCA's are U shaped and not boxed so that they can twist when your suspension articulates. When WJ LCA's they are boxed and have hard rubber bushings on both ends, so as your suspension articulates it will stress the mounts on both ends. Eventually, the mounts on your axle side will tear off of the axle.



That said, with 1.75" lift and 31's, you probably aren't going to be articulating it a lot and it would be fine for a while.



The stock LCA's are also known to literally fold like a taco.



When the LCA mount goes, it looks something like this, and then tears off totally.



DSC01685.jpg






If you can find a local member with a welder, you can weld mini skids onto the LCA mounts fairly cheap that will help that. Its a simple task, and most members will help you with it for a 6 pack of fine beer.



IMG_1136-1.jpg




I suggest the ones from JKS Manufacturing.



http://jksmfg.com/i-9056868-fab-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-1984-2001-miniskid.html







As far as WJ LCA's go.. they are better than running the stock ones, but really you'd be best off to save your penny's and buy some Rubicon Express or similar ones that are intended for the way we use our vehicles. Better quality control arms will have a 'flex joint' of some type on one end or both, and allow the arms to twist without stressing anything.



I'd look at replacing the upper arms as well, they too have a habit of folding under duress.



http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...ywords=jeep+lower+control+arm+rubicon+express



http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Expre...ywords=jeep+upper+control+arm+rubicon+express
Click to expand...


That was awesome info man, thanks. I'll probably end up with the WJs since my budget has already been reached and like you say with my setup and the intensity of the wheeling I will do; hopefully my brackets will hold up....
 
I haven't had an issue with WJ arms at all. The bushings are MUCH larger so they ride a lot smoother.

Had to make this small cut and narrow the bushing sleeve a smidge.

DSC_3642.jpg


DSC_3645.jpg


Here's your comparison of the two.

DSC_3626.jpg
 
WJ arms FTW.

We've wheeled the 01 plenty on WJ arms with stock LCA mounts and not had issues.

if you get to the point tat you were going to collapse an LCA, chances are you were going to bone the mounts anyhow, so I wouldn't even take that risk into consideration.
 
Lowrange2 said:
I haven't had an issue with WJ arms at all. The bushings are MUCH larger so they ride a lot smoother.
Click to expand...

Dude you rock. I am a very picture oriented person and that helps a ton.

87manche helped me a lot previously in regards to answering questions about WJ LCA so between him, your encouragement, and my new tires I'm going to order them right now.

My threads always end up way off topic from my original subject line. Sorry about that
 
No problem.

I think there's a couple write-ups out there somewhere. I actually took those pictures to submit a write-up but there was already one out there.
 
They are on RockAuto for $25 each also. I got lucky and scored a set of WJ uppers and lowers for $30 from a member on here.

31" Duratracs, 4" lift, minor front trimming:

IMG_0201_zps58a54a59.jpg
 
Lowrange2 said:
Here's a pair for $62 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Lower...el:Grand+Cherokee&hash=item565a641b3e&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...


Score. You rock. I was going to go to the junk yard today. But got lazy. Good thing. Because even if I happened to find any, they would be a pain to pull, the yard would probably charge me 25 bucks. And the bushing wouldn't be new.

Gary Briggs said:
Remove all that unnecessary sheetmetal. Stock height on 31x10.5.



Wish I would have never lifted it!
Click to expand...


Started doing that today Gary. On the front bumper. Turned out ok I think. I'm gonna post pics In the next few days when I get it back together. I'm gonna have to trim the rear bumper plastic also. Just going up the curb today almost ripped it off
 
Last edited:
if you can put the arms in a freezer overnight the bushings are way easier to cut with nothing more than a sawzall. Could probably get it done with a hacksaw.
 
The write up we have posted on here suggests bending out the bracket a little bit more as opposed to cutting the bushings. But you like the bushing cutting method more?
 
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