How do you change oil filter without making a mess?

Over the past years Fram had to do something, perhaps they have improved their filters. Last I looked I thought Fram was owned by Allied Signal.
Years ago I had a 73 Vega GT, that vega had a 50,000mi warranty from Quaker state, as most of those engines went mine also cooked itself, aluminum/silicone issues, Quaker state reneged on the warranty and I replaced the 4 banger with a 350 from Motion Minicar out in long island, since then I have never touched a quaker state product again or anyone in my family. I also have severe hesitation about putting a Fram filter on any of my 4 jeeps as a result of the cans blowing off two of them.
 
On my 92 the oil filter setup right.Dosent lay down over the starter like most I changed the O ring last week and checked the pin and the adaptor to make sure someone hadden put it on wrong .It wasnt when the pin gose in the hole in the adaptor it set up I thought all from 90 up didnt do this.
 
I don't have a dog in this fight; I have never used Fram oil filters on my personal vehicles or on customer's vehicles--period.

I have never seen a Fram filter failure, but there is plenty of first hand reports of problems to cause me concern. I do not give any weight to what somebody's "Uncle Billie-Bob's friend's fourth cousin Goober said".

I can not imagine why any manufacturer would still be using nitrile drain back valves, even on the cheapest of their products.

While not anti-new developments, I can't quite wrap my head around a "time release" filter.

And, WTF is it with five, count them, five different filters? Sorry, I could see possibly two, but five? Smacks of a company being run by the Marketing Department to me.

Might I suggest that Fram should figure out how to make the best filter possible, for a good price, and then stick with that.
 
And, WTF is it with five, count them, five different filters? Sorry, I could see possibly two, but five? Smacks of a company being run by the Marketing Department to me.

Might I suggest that Fram should figure out how to make the best filter possible, for a good price, and then stick with that.

Exactly!! How about the BEST 'normal use' filter, and a bulletproof model for racing/abusive applications. For the last six years I've been dutifully trudging to the Subie dealer to buy the 'proper' filter for our Outback. At almost $10 a whack, I thought they were something special. And now I know better!. Last time I changed the oil, the gasket stuck to the engine. I've been doing oil changes for forty years, this is my first taste of the poor quality others speak of. I guess if I scratched the Subie blue paint on the filter, I'd find orange. And, if they make the Autolite FL1A that I've been using for a long time, I gotta wonder which product line it's based on. Maybe time to look at Extended Guard. And, if like motorking has claimed that the FL1A differs in only paint color for Wally World distribution, what's really in the 5qt. jugs of Castrol GTX?
 
Boy has this thread gone off topic! No problem, this is the NAXJA way. It keeps things interesting.

Joe, of course Fram is run by the bean counters and marketing departments. Just like Indian motorcycles and Packard motorcars had great products, but went under because of the financial side, car companies and car parts suppliers are not run from the engineering side any more. And we see now that our car companies will be run by people that have no automotive experience. The government thinks that automotive people don't know the car business.

And the public is very "cheap" oriented. That's why Walmart and "made in China" are now the norm. Car companies from Mercedes to Kia (including Chrysler, etc.) have large departments of bean counters and project managers that meet for hours on end trying to figure out how to save a nickel. From being in on these meetings, I know that this goes way beyond the nickel. We calculated costs down to $0.001.

The requirement is that the supplier meet the minimum stated requirements at the least cost. That is why we have the lowest level FRAM filter. Also how Chrysler decides what thermostat, radiator cap, overflow bottle to purchase to put on the vehicle. And if a supplier's process or design comes out cheap enough, the engineers and bean counter meet for hours to decide if they can waiver on what was previously the minimum requirements.

In the aftermarket, some people are wiling to spend more to get what they perceive to be a better product. And at this level, prices can be inflated somewhat from rock bottom survival prices. Focus and Cobalt prices are much more competitive than Lexus and Mercedes.

Anyway, back to the point. Just get a big oil drain pan that is big enough to drop your tranny pan in and put that under before you pull the filter off.!!!1
 
Back on topic-

I spent 34 dollars at summit racing for an oil relocation kit for a 5.0 Mustang engine.

Barely leaks anything when I spin the filter off, and I can fill it up to the top while doing an oil change.

34 dollars well spent!
 
where can we get the purolators? how much are they on average?

Get the wix, not the purolators. For about 6-10 seconds at startup on my 91 I would get a ticking sound(lifters). As soon as I switched filter brands from a purolator to a wix, it went away.
 
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