How do you change oil filter without making a mess?

^^ does any one else find it either odd or refreshing that some one from an Oil-filter company (one that many do not feel put out the best filters) has come on the forum and has not tried to sell the product that has been put-down. Kudos!

I don’t think Drain back is not that big of an issue as long as you get a filter with a good anti-drain back valve. The problem is it’s hard to fill them up before putting them on so you have a little longer of a dry start during the first start up.

Its hard for me to talk, I have relocated the filter and running a dual relocation unit and its a big ordeal because of where I had to stick the filters, I cant just unscrew the filters, otherwise I get oil all over more then just a control arm.

I like the whole thing. You could get a long drill bit and use that also I am sure if you are worried about TQ the adaptor or cant get a screwdriver up in the tight area for the filter.

 
As per what type of oil filter, I stick with Mopar filters and have no drainback problems as of yet, and they can be had cheap at some Wal- Marts, or spend an extra couple of bucks at the dealer. And I use the sharpened screwdriver method to drain my filter before removal. What does get on my control arms and unibody is easily removed with brake cleaner.
 
^^ does any one else find it either odd or refreshing that some one from an Oil-filter company (one that many do not feel put out the best filters) has come on the forum and has not tried to sell the product that has been put-down. Kudos!

I don’t think Drain back is not that big of an issue as long as you get a filter with a good anti-drain back valve. The problem is it’s hard to fill them up before putting them on so you have a little longer of a dry start during the first start up.

Its hard for me to talk, I have relocated the filter and running a dual relocation unit and its a big ordeal because of where I had to stick the filters, I cant just unscrew the filters, otherwise I get oil all over more then just a control arm.
I hope you find it refreshing and not odd. If you want info about our products, I am happy to give it to you. I am the technical manager and a mechanic by trade, only here to offer help/advice.
have a great day.
I like the whole thing. You could get a long drill bit and use that also I am sure if you are worried about TQ the adaptor or cant get a screwdriver up in the tight area for the filter.
 
I started using Autolite FL1A after these threads started showing up years ago. I may be looking at this all wrong, but if a filter can take a high-revving Mustang engine, the lazy 4.0 shouldn't hurt it. They are larger, but more importantly, allow greater oil pressure. And, on the '92 with the vertical filter, the pressure comes up faster, with less death rattle after a cold start. One of these days, I'm gonna clock the adapter, so it won't empty when the engine is shut off. I read on here that it's possible, so next oil change it is.
The Autolite filter is a FRAM filter, same excact filter as the orange can, just a different paint job. we make that for WalMart and a few automotive retailers. You can check it out, FRAM, Prestone, Autolite, Bendix and Garret Turbos are all Honeywell Transportation systems.
 
The Autolite filter is a FRAM filter, same excact filter as the orange can, just a different paint job. we make that for WalMart and a few automotive retailers. You can check it out, FRAM, Prestone, Autolite, Bendix and Garret Turbos are all Honeywell Transportation systems.

Good to know. Possibly it's the extra capacity of the FL1A that seems to alleviate the dry-start rattle, as it just holds more oil than the smaller filter.

Another thing that seems to help, especially with the upside-down filter on the '92, is after an oil change, I'll pull the fuel pump relay, and just crank the engine for about 15 seconds. After I re-install the relay, the pressure comes right up.
 
The FRAM PH8A is the same as the FL1A in size, if you like that size and want a long life really nice filter, check out the XG8A. It does cost 8 bucks but has full synthetic media backed by a stainless screen with steel end caps and a silicone antidrain back valve. It can trap and hold up to 26 grams of dirt and is recommended for up to 10k oil changes when used with synthetic oil. Its kind of our best kept secret as most opt for the less expensive filter. Pulling the fuel pump relay till you get pressure is great, I do it on my hot rod mustang, crank it up with the ignition and fuel off till the oil pressure guage moves, then fire it up. Not sure if it helps but my current engine is still running great after 3 seasons at the drag strip.
 
Not sure about all the put down on fram tho i have heard and read stories on them failing. More here than anywhere. I have a 97XJ 4.0 2DR that i purchased with 38,000 miles on it in 02 and it now has 150,000miles on it and all thats ever been put on it is fram and ive never had any problems. If im missing something id like to know what it is cause believe me i sure as hell am not lucky. Also have a 91 Land Cruiser that ive put about 80,000 miles on and it has over 200,000 on it now and have always used fram on it. Same goes for any other auto ive had 93 Dodge 1 ton w/Diesel, 93 Toyota 4 runner. Several honda cars from time to time that usually get sold to make an extra buck and before all of these were my sportscar days 94 Z28 95 Camaro 6cylpuke 97 Eclipse 84 Mustang GT 80 Mustang I6 Mazda MX6 GT all with fram and all driven hard on a regular basis. Oddly i miss the 94 Z28 and the 90 MX6 GT the most.
 
I'm really not too happy about the glued on end plates on the lower end Fram filters, but I'll have to take a look at the XG grade ones. I've considered using them before.

What I really do like about the Fram filters is the rubber grip on the end - I like to really crank the filter in there, so it's great to be able to get it back out.
 
Are the glued endplates really a problem? Wouldn't the construction of the filter hold everything together? After I cut the filter open, the plates are easier to remove with the glue for inspection, but I can't see them coming apart when sandwiched inside the filter assy. I have used the TG filters since they came out primarily since they are the same method of operation as the Champion filters we used on the aircraft engines at work. True, they (champion) were all metal (besides the media), but I have yet to see a Fram failure. I have seen others fail miserably with the rubber seal. Had one engine destroyed when the oring came out of the groove and allowed most of the oil to dump out at 55 mph. Grease Monkey bought me a new engine for that one. The second was the Walmart brand and it too involved the seal coming out of the groove when the filter was tightened. It only allowed a few drips to come out, but I caught it in time. I noticed the difference with the Supertech and the Fram, the oring is simply pushed into the groove with ST, while Fram crimps it in place. I also like the antiskid coating on the TG filters, but most of all the safety of the bypass valve. Dirty oil is better than no oil. I have read about these valves failing, how would you know? The silicone flap that holds the oil in seems to have worked every time, as during initial startup, I always have instant pressure and the filter is always full when I remove it (much to the chagrin of my oil soaked starter cables- the relocation of those will occur this next summer).
 
Fram's are CRAP! I've used them in almost all of my previous cars. Until I heard from a good friend of mine that is an engine builder. They don't filter sh!t, and coupled with their crappy friend penzoil, it's a recipe for disaster. It's kinda hard here in AZ to find any other brands other than fram in the horrible checker's or vatozone's other than Mobil'$, or K&N'$. Fram must own 50% stock in both of these sh!t hole parts chains to get them to carry pretty much nothing but fram. This is a very good reason to go to NAPA. Thes guys will NEVER let you down. Death to Checker and Vatozone!!!
 
Seriously, how do you feel about Fram? :D

Do you have any numbers or anything other than your friend doesn't like them? I used to think K&N air filters were great and bought into the whole "more airflow" thing until I saw a detailed comparison vs paper and foam regarding the amount of dirt allowed into the engine. The results while not shocking, were irrefutable and definitely swayed me to stop using K&N and go back to paper. The paper element in the Fram filter looks like any other filter I have used. Is it the type of paper or something in the construction?
 
Fram's are CRAP! I've used them in almost all of my previous cars. Until I heard from a good friend of mine that is an engine builder. They don't filter sh!t, and coupled with their crappy friend penzoil, it's a recipe for disaster.

I think you could be wrong there. Our least expensive filter is 96% efficient at 20 microns using the current ISO 4548-12 oil filter testing. We do not make Penzoil filters either, we did a long time back but not anymore.

It's kinda hard here in AZ to find any other brands other than fram in the horrible checker's or vatozone's other than Mobil'$, or K&N'$. Fram must own 50% stock in both of these sh!t hole parts chains to get them to carry pretty much nothing but fram.

We do not own stock in any auto parts store, they sell our products because people want to buy them.

This is a very good reason to go to NAPA. Thes guys will NEVER let you down. Death to Checker and Vatozone!!!

You should cut open a current model of the NAPA filter to really see what is inside.

We absolutely warranty every product we make, if you ever have any issue using a FRAM product, I will personally hand carry your claim through our claims dept. I want to understand why your engine builder makes these claims when most every form of racing has most racers using FRAM racing filters, in fact over 80% of the top fuel cars in NHRA use FRAM. If you have had a problem with one of our filters I will go to bat for you. Please advise so I can help.
 
Before I relocated my oil Filter on the XJ, everytime I had to start it up w/ that fram I had the WORSE dry start out of any filter I have ever used in my life
 
Looks like we have another class act here who, while displaying a suberb vocabulary, didn't bother to actually read motorking's previous posts. Case worthy of immediate dismissal.

(Edit: I wrote this before someone actually did dismiss the offending post.)

There are some pertinent points to be made though. I for one have absolutely nothing against Fram per se and certainly nothing against Honeywell and their other fine products. However, the real world prospect of pursuing a claim against a filter manufacturer for most of the type of potential damage to a motor that we are discussing here is simply not practical. Obviously, this does not include visible failure such as collapse of the element.

As respects cutting the filters open for comparison, this has, of course, been done. I stopped using Fram filters several years ago after a study was referenced in the Forum in which someone carefully analyzed most of the filter brands. I am too lazy to look this up right now so am going on memory, but the base Fram model did not fare well based on several criteria. At least one, and possibly both, of the upscale models (Double Guard and Tough Guard?) performed okay in the comparisons. Again, disclaimer, I am relying on memory here but I know the Fram came out poorly in this study.

What I don't know is whether Fram or anyone else has changed the makeup of their filters since that time. Perhaps we are being "unfair" here, but let's face it, it's human nature to translate "one Fram is 'inferior'" to "all Frams are 'inferior'" and a lot easier to just go down to the parts store and ask for Wix or whatever than try to do the research to determine if Fram has improved their (basic) filter. And the fact that someone makes a good racing filter does not necessarily translate to their making a good filter for my dd.

I would guess that motorking knows more about oil filters than about 99% of the members of this forum and could do not only his company but NAXJA members a service by helping us understand why Fram is an equivalent product. Just saying to cut them open is probably not going to get the job done.
 
I've heard of people sliding a bread bag over the oil filter to catch the oil when unscrewing it, sort of like a condom. I've never bothered, just wipe the LCA and uniframe when done.

My wife had a 95 or so Oldsmobile, the oil filter mount had a plastic shovel thing on it that guided the oil out so it did not dump on the starter assembly. That would be a handy item for some enterprising individual to vac form or stamp. We had the engine replaced and it never made it from the old engine to the new jasper <sigh>.
As for all 4 of our jeeps, filter gets changed first, pan under, pull old filter, remove face up, stick finger in and get some old oil out, lube seal and threads on new filter, install, then push it further under and drain pan.
 
I used to use them, Fram, in the 70's and 80's up to to the mid 90's until I had two blow the cans off on my 82 S-10, shocked me and made one heck of a mess, if my 6 yo daughter had not been there 'helping' I might have missed it as it pumped out all the new oil on to the driveway. I used Mopar OEM from day one on my 98XJ, then after I used up the two cases I bought when I bought the jeep new I tried Purolator and noticed that they took about 20 seconds to build pressure on a cold start, went to K&N for a while and then had problems with them staying tight, moved to Mobil-1 filters and have stayed there ever since, with the occasional K&N, they seemed to have fixed the staying tight problem, when they go on sale at AA or National.
Also on the 98XJ I went to Mobil-1 10W30 oil at the 5,000mi mark and have stayed with it ever since.
 
Looks like we have another class act here who, while displaying a suberb vocabulary, didn't bother to actually read motorking's previous posts. Case worthy of immediate dismissal.

(Edit: I wrote this before someone actually did dismiss the offending post.)

There are some pertinent points to be made though. I for one have absolutely nothing against Fram per se and certainly nothing against Honeywell and their other fine products. However, the real world prospect of pursuing a claim against a filter manufacturer for most of the type of potential damage to a motor that we are discussing here is simply not practical. Obviously, this does not include visible failure such as collapse of the element.

As respects cutting the filters open for comparison, this has, of course, been done. I stopped using Fram filters several years ago after a study was referenced in the Forum in which someone carefully analyzed most of the filter brands. I am too lazy to look this up right now so am going on memory, but the base Fram model did not fare well based on several criteria. At least one, and possibly both, of the upscale models (Double Guard and Tough Guard?) performed okay in the comparisons. Again, disclaimer, I am relying on memory here but I know the Fram came out poorly in this study.

What I don't know is whether Fram or anyone else has changed the makeup of their filters since that time. Perhaps we are being "unfair" here, but let's face it, it's human nature to translate "one Fram is 'inferior'" to "all Frams are 'inferior'" and a lot easier to just go down to the parts store and ask for Wix or whatever than try to do the research to determine if Fram has improved their (basic) filter. And the fact that someone makes a good racing filter does not necessarily translate to their making a good filter for my dd.

I would guess that motorking knows more about oil filters than about 99% of the members of this forum and could do not only his company but NAXJA members a service by helping us understand why Fram is an equivalent product. Just saying to cut them open is probably not going to get the job done.
Pelican,
The "study" that many peope on the internet reference is really just a guy cutting open filters and offering his opinion. There is no filter tesing on that site, just opinions. Filters are tested to ISO standards since 2002. Back then the automakers abondoned SAE test protocols and adopted international standards.

Serious filter makers test to a standard called ISO 4548-12. This is a test that uses a defined particle size (20 microns) and measures both filtering efficiecny and capacity. Any repuatble filter company will either advertise these test claims on the box or on their respective websites. We do, WIX does, Purolater does, not sure about others. It si test that anyone concerned about using a quality filter should be looking at.

FRAM has taken a beating on the net for having fiber end caps on their filters. We have used this manufacturing method sucessfully for over 25 years. It is in fact used by Honda and Subaru OE filters, Bentley OE filters and even AC delco has recently adopted this style of manufacturing. It works, and it is not a structural element of the filter at all though many think that it is. Toyota OE filters have even competely removed end caps from their filters, sealing the end of the media with glue only.

FRAM makes five levels of oil filters. Some dissatisfaction results from using our least expensive( and highly efficient) oil filters on modified engines. When you increase the oil pressure and volume in an engine, you should be using a racing filter.

Here is a run down of what we sell-
FRAM Extra Guard- this is our least expensive filter that you find anywhere filters are sold. It is made for 3-4k oil changes and has over 96% efficiency. Cellulose media, nitrile anti drain back valve. It is not recommended for extended oil changes or high performance engines

FRAM Tough Guard- Similar to extra guard, except it has synthetic weave in the media for 99% efficiency. It also has a stainless screen over the bypass valve, silicone anti drain back valve and is recommended for up to 7500 mile oil changes.

FRAM Extended Guard- this is our flagship filter. It has double ply full synthetic media, wrapped around a stainless screen with metal end caps. It has 99% efficiency, can trap and hold alost 3x's the amount of dirt as a standard filter. It is recommended for up to 10k oil changes when used with synthetic oil. It also has silicone antidrain back valves. Our internal testing shows that it outperforms Mobil 1 extended life filter, Amsoil extended life filter and K+N. The Mobil 1 and Amsoil are close but we do test slightly better than they do in capacity and efficiency. Now, it does cost 8-10 bucks and I know that I will be critisized for that as well. if you want the best, this is it and it costs less than the comparable Mobil 1 and Amsoil filters, considerably less.

FRAM High Mileage- Same filter as the Extra Guard except it contains a basket of additive inside that slowly dissolves over the life of the oil change. the additive basket conditions seals and maintain the PH balance of the oil in a high mileage engine. this technology is being used by UPS and other fleets in tesing right now to possibly extend oil changes well into the 40k mile range.

FRAM Racing filters- These are the filters that the High Performance guys should be running. It is amazing to me that a person will spend 10k building an engine and screw a 3 dollar filter on it. Our racing filters are built to withstand up to 300psi, with a thicker can, robust construction internally, high flow rates, built in bypass valve (for those old school guys who eliminate this valve from small block chevys). it also has screen backed media and a screen over the bypass valve to catch any shrapenal when needed.

We also have a full line of remote mount and double remote mount filters that feature 2 qt capacity, super high flow, billet mounting block with cleanable 10 micron screen before the filter.
That is the FRAM story for what its worth. I use FRAM on my 600hp mustang, my Cadillac CTS-V, my lawnmower, dune buggy and have not had any issues. We get letters every day from people who are hardcore FRAM users telling us about vehicles with 400-500 thousand miles on them.

We are an OE suppler to MACK, Honda, subaru, Onan and a few others.
I know that we stand behind our products 100%, our quality claims dept is customer focused, not screw the customer focused. We sell 100 million filters a year, if we had the problems that some claim we do, we would be bankrupt.
 
so you either did a lot of typing or a lot of copy and paste work. I think that most of the shade tree mechanics (to say the least about the avg XJ owner) has made their own decisions. I stand by mine and will continue to do so. No matter how many offerings FRAM makes.
 
Doesn't look like standard ad copy, I'd bet on a lot of typing.
 
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