Hey Jes, you building a front 44?

When I did mine, I just went to the Warn website and got the lengths of F150 axles and Waggy axles, took the difference and that's how much I shortened each side.
 
Goatman said:
When I did mine, I just went to the Warn website and got the lengths of F150 axles and Waggy axles, took the difference and that's how much I shortened each side.

Warns webpage has been around long enough to fix all errors, but I would still call them to make sure there are no mistakes. Just an extra sense of security.
 
gearwhine said:
Warns webpage has been around long enough to fix all errors, but I would still call them to make sure there are no mistakes. Just an extra sense of security.


Actually I had found a mistake and had them correct it about 5 months ago :D
 
Nice job. Like the shave job.

how is the inverted T hi steer treating you. Why not run a true crossover hi steer ? Where you running into problems with the coil/ tracbar mount?
 
I don't see a way to fit crossover hi-streer and still get full turning without the tie rod hitting the spring. It would be tricky to make it fit.
The inverted T steering works fine, no issues at all. The tie rod ends are pretty worn now though, 20,000+ hard miles on the front end so far.
 
Appalachianxj said:
how is the inverted T hi steer treating you. Why not run a true crossover hi steer ? Where you running into problems with the coil/ tracbar mount?

The idea is to get the steering as high as possible, so running a crossover with the drag link on top and the tie rod below the steering arm looses about 3" of ground clearance. I also run inverted T on top of the arms.
 
That is some awsome work. I hope its okay if I copy you a little bit. if so could you tell me where you got the thread part you weld into the cromo link end

picture.JPG


did you just weld a threaded insert to the end of this RE joint? or did you tap a peice of cromo?

picture.JPG
 
The threaded end is called a SPUD. It's a chunk of 1.75" steel turned down to 1.5" on one end and on the other end it's 1.25" theaded rod.
I got them from www.polyperformance.com
The other pieces are Rubicon Express stuff that I got from www.performanceoffroadcenter.com
Later I found that you can buy the large RE Super flex joint housings with a threaded end already welded on. In the future I would go that route, saves a little welding.
 
Thanks for the info. I checked on polyperformance web site I browsed then did a serch for spud and 0 matched found so I gues they dont cary them any more. To bad, I liked the way your links look with the female end on the joint. it looks stronger than just welding a grade 8 bolt to the joint. Ill look into the ones with the studs.
 
tkm said:
Thanks for the info. I checked on polyperformance web site I browsed then did a serch for spud and 0 matched found so I gues they dont cary them any more. To bad, I liked the way your links look with the female end on the joint. it looks stronger than just welding a grade 8 bolt to the joint. Ill look into the ones with the studs.

They have a phone number...

:)
 
When I built my front hidden long arm 3 link, I went through dc4wd.com and got two externally threaded Rubicon Express spuds (came with the jam nuts) for $26 each and two Rubicon Express internally threaded tubes that came with the ends coped to fit the RE 3792 joints for $9 each. This was less than a year ago. I also purchased four of the RE 3792 joints for $27 each through them. If the RE joints with the internally threaded spuds already welded on are available, I would probably go that route too. I've found www.dc4wd.com to have a low price and good service on quite a few things. Jeff
 
Lots of good info, One last question what size 3x3 did you use for the mounts? I found two threads one said to use 3x3x3/16th and the other said 1/4. for the large re joints.
 
tkm said:
Lots of good info, One last question what size 3x3 did you use for the mounts? I found two threads one said to use 3x3x3/16th and the other said 1/4. for the large re joints.

3"X3"X.188" is what you want.
 
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