gr8Tyres
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
It's hard finding a strong one for my 89 XJ Wagoneer. Will later years XJs work? If so, which years, and do you have a good one near Charlotte, NC?
atriot:
atriot:
Headliner cardboard interchangeable?
- Thread starter gr8Tyres
- Start date
- Location
- In a strange land
I suspect that a '96 and down will work for you, but I don't know for sure. The thing I would check on a junkyard donor is the similarity of the trim around the headliner. If it uses the same A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar and in-between trim pieces then it is probably going to work fine. The only other issue to fret over is the similarity/difference between dome lights, sound bar, sun visors and rear seatbelt mounts. Those all go through the headliner, so even a same year but with different options might make a difference.
Also note that headliner backer is most likely fiberglass, not cardboard. It is not hard to reinforce this. On the other hand, it is itchy, unpleasant material to work with. Rumor has it you can protect yourself by covering your arms and hands with baby powder and that will keep the fibers from sticking to you.
Also note that headliner backer is most likely fiberglass, not cardboard. It is not hard to reinforce this. On the other hand, it is itchy, unpleasant material to work with. Rumor has it you can protect yourself by covering your arms and hands with baby powder and that will keep the fibers from sticking to you.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
They're all interchangeable. The only issues are with the holes for the dome and overhead console
- Location
- In the islands
Have anyone coated the head liner with fiberglass resin? I have mine out to put new material on it for the second time in about ten years. Most other vehicles headliner last a lot longer. This is so disappointing having to do the same thing every ten years.
ParadiseXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paradise, CA 95969
I have put FG resin on two of the broken corners on my 90. The headliner board will seriously suck up resin like a sponge...and also make the board waaay too stiff, in MY opinion. Stiff as in completely UN-flexible. The one corner I fixed on my MJ headliner with...uh...Duct Tape...worked much better.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
I've been looking at making a fiberglass board so that I can put heavy vinyl on it. My thinking is that it would be better to make a copy than to try to use the headboard itself. Lay some saran wrap over the board, spray it with PAM or whatever, then lay some fleece and soak that in resin. Then tear off the old board and throw it away. I got the idea after looking at videos on youtube, specifically some guy making a small boat from fleece soaked in resin https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ngcldsRqxY Seems light and stiff, glue some vinyl to it with contact cement or whatever and it should work okay, assuming you can keep the center from falling
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- Location
- In a strange land
I have done the resin thing. It has some definite pros and cons.
First issue is there is a thin layer of plastic (like Saran Wrap) over the fiberglass on the fabric side of the picture. I don't think that is the most compatible with the fiberglass resin. The plastic peels off fairly readily, but it leaves a pretty irregular surface behind. I just did The Bride's Impala SS last weekend (exact same sort of fiberglass headliner). Peel off the plastic, two coats of resin, two hours of drying time and then about two hours of sanding. Several more hours of itching.
I think the end result is a better product, but it comes at additional cost too.
If you choose the resin route buy the gallon of resin. You won't get far with a quart.
First issue is there is a thin layer of plastic (like Saran Wrap) over the fiberglass on the fabric side of the picture. I don't think that is the most compatible with the fiberglass resin. The plastic peels off fairly readily, but it leaves a pretty irregular surface behind. I just did The Bride's Impala SS last weekend (exact same sort of fiberglass headliner). Peel off the plastic, two coats of resin, two hours of drying time and then about two hours of sanding. Several more hours of itching.
I think the end result is a better product, but it comes at additional cost too.
If you choose the resin route buy the gallon of resin. You won't get far with a quart.
- Location
- In the islands
It have two small tears at the edges . The one at the front over the mirror where it is narrows to allow for the overhead console is the most critical. I would also like to stiffen it a little but not too much so as to make it difficult to replace.
I am thinking of using a piece of tape sealed in place with resin then seal the back /top section with a coat of resin. A coat on the under side may not be a bad idea either while hoping it do not become too stiff. I am also entertaining the idea of insulating the underside of the roof.
I will be taking the unit to an upholstery shop to have it covered.
I am thinking of using a piece of tape sealed in place with resin then seal the back /top section with a coat of resin. A coat on the under side may not be a bad idea either while hoping it do not become too stiff. I am also entertaining the idea of insulating the underside of the roof.
I will be taking the unit to an upholstery shop to have it covered.
gr8Tyres
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
thanks everyone. guess ill go to JY and try a later model.
- Location
- In a strange land
I don't think there is as much to gain by sealing the back/top side, and if you were to do both sides that might be too stiff. It might make sense to do both sides in the area of the center console though. That should push the weak area away from there. Just make sure you plan for where you do want it to flex and leave that area alone.
As I think about it, resin on the top side could have some undesirable effects as it interacts with the sheet metal above it. I can imagine squeaks, rattles and abrasion where before things used to just nestle together. :dunno:
UncleSarge58
NAXJA Forum User
Planning on doing the Same w/ mine. 1/2 to 1 Gal. Epoxy Resin on the Bottom Side. Applied w/ Roller & Brush.
Gonna Mark it w/ a Dry Erase Marker along the Plastic Trim, Before Removal & Coat Up To that Line. That Way, It will Still be Flexible at the Edges.
Then, I Can Clean it Off the Trim, When I Clean It for Re-Installation.
I Have a Huge piece of Coyote Tan, 2000 Denier Nylon, Vinyl Backed, Waterproof Canvas (Same Material as USMC Sea Bags), that I'm gonna use as Headliner Material. Will Have to Fold/Pleat it in the Corners & Plan On Riveting these Folds Thru the Headliner w/ Alum or SS Rivets.
May even Consider Riveting Across the Center (Side to Side) w/ Washers to Match (Behind the Front Seats & Cargo Compartment) That Way, No Sag 4 Ever & an "Old School" HD Military Look!
Gonna Glue It to the Hardened Headliner w/ 3M Contact Cement.
Same stuff used to Install Formica Kitchen Countertops!
(Flexible, Heat, Vibration & Water Resistant & Permanent Adhesion!)
Also Want to Insulate the Roof Metal w/ some Self Adhesive, Foil Coated, Foam Insulation. Just Can't Find Large enough Sheets to Do the Whole roof. (All in One Piece)
Since Mine Was a Beach Vehicle for 5yrs, I'll Definitely be Checking for Rust, On the Roof Metal!
If I Find Any, It's Rust Red Primer & Frame Saver Paint Time.
UncleSarge58
- Location
- In the islands
www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245954757
I found this in the for sale section. It is worth a second look. The product is called e z cool.
I found this in the for sale section. It is worth a second look. The product is called e z cool.
UncleSarge58
NAXJA Forum User
Thanx Patrick.
Looked at Their Site & It's $45 for a 10ft Roll.
Also Like the fact that they're located Here in Texas.
US58
Looked at Their Site & It's $45 for a 10ft Roll.
Also Like the fact that they're located Here in Texas.
US58
- Location
- In the islands
