E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

Well, I got my lights in the other night. What a difference! Amazingly enough, my 4 relay system with my lack of electrical skills fired up at first call. This was especially good since my wife thought that it was going to be a disaster (who could blame her?). Big thanks go out to 1bolt, Go-Jeep, and FitchVA. You guys rule!
 
Just ordered my Autopal's with the City lights, as well as the white 100/90W bulbs. Also ordering a harness, I will definitely post pics when I get everything in and do the install!
 
Autopals' rubber grommet kept me from using it properly during my hid install. With the extra HID wires, it just wont work. So i cut a slit in it and slid it on after i had the lights hooked up.
 
They're cheap and they work. I have the version with the 40A relays- I cut out the fusible link wire and put ATC fuse holders in. The headlight connections are crappy, but it's working fine so far. For a total investment of about $35, I can't complain.
 
hubs97xj said:
They're cheap and they work. I have the version with the 40A relays- I cut out the fusible link wire and put ATC fuse holders in. The headlight connections are crappy, but it's working fine so far. For a total investment of about $35, I can't complain.
Click to expand...

where did you find the 40A relays? i blew the 30s in my subaru with osram +90 bulbs
 
from what i understand about e-code housings, is that there is a "sharp cutoff" on the drivers side of the vehicle, aka asymmetrical lighting. my question is, can i buy two passenger side housings and run symmetrical beams both high and low? also, what does the connection look like at the back of these things? same as stock xj's? also how deep are the housings, obviously they fit, but i might have to do some wire moving if they are hugely deep.
 
slapshot said:
from what i understand about e-code housings, is that there is a "sharp cutoff" on the drivers side of the vehicle, aka asymmetrical lighting. my question is, can i buy two passenger side housings and run symmetrical beams both high and low? also, what does the connection look like at the back of these things? same as stock xj's? also how deep are the housings, obviously they fit, but i might have to do some wire moving if they are hugely deep.
Click to expand...

First of all, a "sharp cutoff" is a relative term. You will not get a cutoff like HID projectors but you will get more distinction of where your headlight beam begins and ends for better more accurate aiming and better beam spread.
The housings are exactly alike, meaning, there is no drivers side, passenger side like some HID projectors. However they are designed for RHD or LHD.
The connection is typically for an H4 which is what your Jeep has and have the same dimensions of the housing that came with your Jeep.
If you want the best "cutoff" for a Halogen H4 200mm, (7X6), (6054) housing go with Cibies, Hellas, IPF's... if you're on a budget and don't really care about the cutoff go with Autopals.
Either way you should add a wiring harness first.
 
I compared the sharp cutoff with my E-codes and a coworkers HID's on his Honda S2000. Other than height, the difference was incremental at 20 feet and 20 yards. The E-codes are just slightly fuzzier in the cutoff - about an inch difference from what I saw. It was much less at 20 yards, but at 200 yards, who knows?

Alignment at 30 feet shows a distinct kick up on the right of each beam, and trying to make them match at any fixed distance would be a comedy of errors. I doubt the use of a flat beamed driver's side lamp would help all that much - the price of HID's certainly allows for the difference. Keep in mind replacement Eiko bulbs for HID's run $139.99 and up, Wagner's, Sylvania's, etc are probaby 20% higher.

IMHO HID projectors are just a method to get around the DOT 55 watt maximum so the Headlamp Board won't have to accept E -codes and 80/100 H4's. And they do it very expensively.
 
I agree with some of those statements, but HID are definitely NOT a way to get around DOT requirements... and even if they were, they sure did a damn good job. The lumen output when compared to halogen blows them out of the water, as well as bulb life. When put into the correct projector housing, the light is spread where its needed, and very evenly. Not just blasted all over the road with hot spots and glare. Saying that Autopal's are comparable to s2k projectors is a pretty bold statement. All OEM HID ballasts run at 35watts, however a few aftermarket manufacturers have prodcued 50watt (or 55 don;t remember), and they will blow any halogen light system out of the water.

If my Autopal's looked liked this I would pee my pants...
ls430width17la.jpg


Low beams FTW
IMG_9009.jpg
 
Last edited:
holy shit, that is rediculous....damn near 747 landing on a runway lighting
 
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