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E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars
- Thread starter 1bolt
- Start date
- Location
- Columbus, In
I got mine on the other day and i must say they do pretty good but there is room for improvement. I am gonna bump up the bulb wattage and get a harness and they should be really good then!
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IMO the ones that didn't have the diamond shaped thingy are more immediately impressive due to the cutoff, I am going to mod the ones in my Comanche that have the little diamond and see if the ultra sharp cutoff returns.
Also for anyone new to this thread make sure you're not buying DOT autopals or "diamond cut" lens (very clear lens, not to be confused with the diamond shaped thngy inside the E-code autopals) Rishi sells those as well and they aren't E-codes and as far as I know are junk (IMO).
One last thing, Motion Offroad seems to buy these (the "diamond cut" Autopals) and resell them at a near 2x markup so buyer beware.
Also for anyone new to this thread make sure you're not buying DOT autopals or "diamond cut" lens (very clear lens, not to be confused with the diamond shaped thngy inside the E-code autopals) Rishi sells those as well and they aren't E-codes and as far as I know are junk (IMO).
One last thing, Motion Offroad seems to buy these (the "diamond cut" Autopals) and resell them at a near 2x markup so buyer beware.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
oh lead not swallow, will he ever learn?
ert01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
DanMan2k06
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
Alright not trying to hijack, but I know there are enough threads floating around like this so I didn't want to make a new one. Anyway...
I made a new harness last night, and it's having some weird problems. After hooking everything up, something isn't right. With the lights off, the relay is still getting a signal from the headlights saying they're on? I tried switching around the signal wires, and get different results with each variation, but with every one there is still power to the lights. So I put it all back to normal, triple checked the conections, and it's still bad. Right now one light works completely fine. Off is off, on is on, highbeam is highbeams. The other one constantly has high beam AND low beam power at the same time. Not good. Any ideas?
The wiring matches Fitch's diagram EXACTLY. Is my ground bad? Are the relays a different kind?
I made a new harness last night, and it's having some weird problems. After hooking everything up, something isn't right. With the lights off, the relay is still getting a signal from the headlights saying they're on? I tried switching around the signal wires, and get different results with each variation, but with every one there is still power to the lights. So I put it all back to normal, triple checked the conections, and it's still bad. Right now one light works completely fine. Off is off, on is on, highbeam is highbeams. The other one constantly has high beam AND low beam power at the same time. Not good. Any ideas?
The wiring matches Fitch's diagram EXACTLY. Is my ground bad? Are the relays a different kind?
ert01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
You have SPDT relays. You need DPST relays.
Both types of relays have 87 and 87 A terminals...
On a double pole single throw relay (DPST), both 87 and 87A are normally open contacts.
On a single pole double throw relay (SPDT) 87 is a normally open contact and 87A is a normally closed contact.
You could get away with using your existing relays if you could connect both the low beam wire from the passenger side and the low beam wire from the drivers side headlights onto the same 87 terminal on the low beam relay. (Same goes for high beams, but on the high beam relay of course).
Both types of relays have 87 and 87 A terminals...
On a double pole single throw relay (DPST), both 87 and 87A are normally open contacts.
On a single pole double throw relay (SPDT) 87 is a normally open contact and 87A is a normally closed contact.
You could get away with using your existing relays if you could connect both the low beam wire from the passenger side and the low beam wire from the drivers side headlights onto the same 87 terminal on the low beam relay. (Same goes for high beams, but on the high beam relay of course).
DanMan2k06
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
Ahhhhh makes so much sense now. I figured it out (kind of) by process of elimination. Definitely annoying though after spending so much time and energy figuring out a problem that was so little.
Thanks a ton!
Thanks a ton!
KIAKillerXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Belton, Texas
Just did this conversion, and all I can say is WOW! I was a bit skeptical on how well they would look, but figured anything would be better than my 10 year old factory sealed beams.
Installed the 90/100 bulbs, Autopal housing, and EAutoworks harness.
Had an issue with once I flipped to high beams, then back to low, the high beams would stay on.
That left me scratching my head, and I had to do some digging to figure out what the issue was after spending an hour or more with the multimeter and not finding any issues.
Per the LAST paragraph in Fitch's harness writeup, if you have factory fog lights, you need to pull the relay from the under-hood compartment. That would normally prevent the fogs and high beams running at the same time, however, with the aftermarket harness it gives this side effect.
Thought it might save some headaches to you guys out there.
Overall highly recommend the upgrade for ~$100.
Installed the 90/100 bulbs, Autopal housing, and EAutoworks harness.
Had an issue with once I flipped to high beams, then back to low, the high beams would stay on.
That left me scratching my head, and I had to do some digging to figure out what the issue was after spending an hour or more with the multimeter and not finding any issues.
Per the LAST paragraph in Fitch's harness writeup, if you have factory fog lights, you need to pull the relay from the under-hood compartment. That would normally prevent the fogs and high beams running at the same time, however, with the aftermarket harness it gives this side effect.
Thought it might save some headaches to you guys out there.
Overall highly recommend the upgrade for ~$100.
Juggernaut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis, IN
I really hate to resurrect this old thread, but I feel I must. I need opinions. I am doing the infamous Autopal swap next week, and am curious as to what every one thinks. I am gonna build my own harness, and I know that the general consensus is to use 10awg. However, I will be doing 4 relays instead of two (thanks Go-Jeep!) and wanted to know if ya'll thought that 12 gauge, or 14 even, would be up to the task since it would only be receiving half of the load that you guys are normally throwing at it (one low beam versus both, etc.). Thanks in advance! By the way, I am getting the 100/90 White upgrade with the housings.
This thread has been resurrected a dozen times, I never have figured out what the harm is in bringing an old thread back... It's not like there's a limited amount of space.
Sounds like you're on the right track but I think you're about to get told to read the thread for opinions on what you want to do
it's been covered just about every other page (not saying this to be snippy it's happened a bunch of times already).
I put a set of these on another Family vehicle a couple weeks back and have a set in the shed for a Toyota Taco waiting to go on, still a ridiculously good upgrade for the cost... I've seen old stock Warner sealed beams replaced now 5 times I think, with the Autopals.
Sounds like you're on the right track but I think you're about to get told to read the thread for opinions on what you want to do
it's been covered just about every other page (not saying this to be snippy it's happened a bunch of times already).I put a set of these on another Family vehicle a couple weeks back and have a set in the shed for a Toyota Taco waiting to go on, still a ridiculously good upgrade for the cost... I've seen old stock Warner sealed beams replaced now 5 times I think, with the Autopals.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
I'm not sure why your using 4 relays instead of 2? The wire size will depend a bit on how far you're running it. If the relays are close to the headlights, 12 or 14 gauge per filament is fine. My setup has 10-gauge to the relays on the fender and 12 gauge to each headlight. I'm grounding to the body right at the headlights. I'm dropping about 0.15 volts total through the wiring with the 100W highbeams on.
I'm running Napa's house brand of 80/100W H4 bulbs in the AutoPals. They seem to last quite a while and really light up the road. Great for spotting all the deer and moose at night.
I'm running Napa's house brand of 80/100W H4 bulbs in the AutoPals. They seem to last quite a while and really light up the road. Great for spotting all the deer and moose at night.
sbxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Victoria, AU
since were resurrecting I thought I'd show my retrofit
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Fastdemise
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beaverton, OR
I know you can find out the amounts of amps a certain gauge of wire can handle so some quick math will tell you if the wire you choose will be up to the task for the wattage you pick now and later on.
Websites I used for supplies.
http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm - I went with the H4 / 9003 Female plug connector kit. The other one comes pre-wired.
http://www.keefeperformance.com/kprelay.html - Bought x2 40amp SPDT relays and 2 relay wiring kits with crimps for 10ga.
The part that took the longest was to look up a Relay Harness that wasn't already pre wired and would fit 10/12ga wire. But I went this route so when the relay feels like not working anymore I just have to pull the relay and not worry about individual wires that need pulling. Just my example. Also if anyone else wants a good spot to place your wiring you can mount all the wires and relays in the header panel. If you ever take the panel off you notice there is a large lip right above the headlight in the panel to mount your relay and just run your wires straight across along the top of the panel to the other side where I mounted my other relay. It's pretty clean and you can't tell it's there.
Websites I used for supplies.
http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm - I went with the H4 / 9003 Female plug connector kit. The other one comes pre-wired.
http://www.keefeperformance.com/kprelay.html - Bought x2 40amp SPDT relays and 2 relay wiring kits with crimps for 10ga.
The part that took the longest was to look up a Relay Harness that wasn't already pre wired and would fit 10/12ga wire. But I went this route so when the relay feels like not working anymore I just have to pull the relay and not worry about individual wires that need pulling. Just my example. Also if anyone else wants a good spot to place your wiring you can mount all the wires and relays in the header panel. If you ever take the panel off you notice there is a large lip right above the headlight in the panel to mount your relay and just run your wires straight across along the top of the panel to the other side where I mounted my other relay. It's pretty clean and you can't tell it's there.
Juggernaut
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis, IN
Well, the reason I am asking is because I read the entire thread, and no one else is going with a 4 relay setup. I want to because in case I, or my wife, am driving at night and the low beam fuse or relay goes, I don't want to lose both lights. I suppose I am doing it for nothing more than peace of mind. I have all of the harness components lined up, but it was just a matter of pulling the trigger on the 10 or 12 gauge wire. Thanks guys!
I might be new here, and I haven't read the whole tread yet, but it seems like alot of you guys install big watt bulbs, the problems we have had here in the nordic countries is that either you burn the reflectors or the bulb due to heat created, normally a halogen bulb would produce 75-80% heat, 20-25% light, so if you use a 90/100W lamp, you would create something like 80W of heat and 20W of light, a normal 55/60W H4 lamp produces around 12W of light and 48W of heat, so you reflectors and lamps would live a lot longer, this problem is specially visible if you have alot of slow driving like city traffic, offroading and such...
DanMan2k06
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Damascus, MD
I'm planning on going back and doin 4 relays as well. Just peace of mind, also doesn't put as much load on each relay.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
So long as the reflectors and lenses are glass, I've never had a problem running higher wattage bulbs. I did have a friend melt the plastic lenses on his ZJ running a higher wattage bulbs.
ert01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
My Autopal housings cracked pretty bad about a month after installing them due to heat... I was (and still am) running a 10ga harness with 100/80W bulbs and the autopal housings. They got pretty hot and the cold outside cracked them (it was around -40C though...)
I'm going to try the Hella's or the IPF's next and see if they hold up any better.
I'm going to try the Hella's or the IPF's next and see if they hold up any better.
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
When I wired my KC Daylighters I used 1 relay per each light because they were 100 watt (or are they 130 watt?)
Either way I think the highbeams should be wired with one relay going to each. But for lowbeams that all depends. Not much harder to do.
But to say it is a safety feature so if one lowbeam fuse or relay goes out you still have the other.....but you are forgetting that the highbeams are still there waiting to be used.
Either way I think the highbeams should be wired with one relay going to each. But for lowbeams that all depends. Not much harder to do.
But to say it is a safety feature so if one lowbeam fuse or relay goes out you still have the other.....but you are forgetting that the highbeams are still there waiting to be used.
