E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

corbinafly said:
I hope you meant DPST relays......

Nope, I orderd SPDT relays. Was that bad???? :smsoap:
 
1bolt said:
Don't they all? anyway not even the most anal retentive inspection tech is going to study your sealed beam-looking head lights... Seriously even the ridiculous ass that failed my last three vehicles for tiny little stuff didn't notice the Autopals.

GRWHITE: those lights off Ebay you asked about are exactly what this WHOLE THREAD is about, read the first page man... If you get failed for running Autopals which are next to impossible to tell aren't DOT legal sealed beams, then you need to go to the next station and never return.

I mean what are they going to do take you out back and shoot you? If you get rejected just scrape the sticker off and go to the next station, it's not like there's computerized records for state inspections networked to every greasy auto mechanics shop in America.

Actually alot of the states are going to the computer system to do inspections. They will enter your vin in the system and if you fail they will type in what for. This is for all cars not just the new ones. Ever notice on the newer vehicles that next to or under the vin is a bar code. Thats for the computer system to scan your vin in instead of typing all the info in. In New Hampshire (my state befor I moved to Texas) Has the system. You cannot just go to another station. It will come up on the system.
 
the ones you got are the same as 90% of relays out there. 5 post icecube that plug right in to the PD block. I used them on my itchbox, they just have an extra post in the middle.
 
Well, I got and installed my Autopals last night. Let me say, for the price, Im VERY impressed with these. Headlights and lighting in general is an obsession of mine. Ive tried lots of set ups, and this so far is the best! And thats with stock wattage bulbs!!! I need to install my brighter bulbs and my upgrade harness, and see how it is then.

But as of last night and early this morning, they are perfect. Low beams provide a nice patch of light, with NO hot spots or "angel eyes" like my other H4 housings. Plenty of light infront, and off to the sides. The little triangles provide a nice bit of additional light off to the right. Just as others have said.

High beams..... wow..... They really are great. Gotta admit I was skeptical. But man. The beam change is awesome! Its like they go from flood lights to spot lights.

Im ordering 3 more sets!!! One for my trans am, one for my gf's xj, and one for my buddies xj. If I knew the round ones for the wranglers worked just as good, ide probably be ordering 4....

Great deal, great product, awesome results. If anyone in the exton/king of prussia area needs convincing...let me know!

J.
 
1bolt said:
Don't they all?

Nope, that's why I asked. We don't have safety or emissions testing at all - not even when selling or buying a vehicle. The emissions testing depends on the region and country general air quality and there is rumor we might have to start emissions testing in the next 5-10 years. Must be all that smog drifting up with the californians. :}
 
That's true... I live in Boise (Ada county) we've got emissions here... 15 minutes away in Canyon county they don't have emissions... and a lot of Canyon County peeps travel to Ada county for work. Depends on location..

I'm going to order these lights once my wife lets me. For some reason my lights suck and it's like someone is holding a dollar store flashlight in front of my Jeep for lighting.
 
ghettocruiser said:
The second ones... You want "E" code housings...not diamond cut clear lens.

The first set are just clear lens H4 conversion housings. They'll work on with some nice bulbs, its what Im running now. But Im switching to the "E" codes after reading this thread...

J.

:gonnablow Crap! I ended up with the clear lens housings. So, I need to send them back?
 
A word of wisdom. Anything rectangular/sqaure when it comes to lighting is always a compromise. So when you mentioned the wranglers headlights - yes they will be just at good, if not better.
 
FitchVA said:
it's not what you want, but you can use them. you just need to only use the 87 terminal for the lead and not the 87a
See if I am understanding this right... With my SPDT relays, the 30 terminal is powering the 87a terminal until the 86 terminal gets power then the relay throws power to the 87 terminal. So when my headlights are off, the 87a terminal on both the relays is closed/87 is open, and when I turn the headlights on dim on one of the relays 87 is closed/87a is open the other stays the same. When I turn the highs on, the other terminal is 87 closed/87a open Right???
 
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rcmf5525 said:
See if I am understanding this right... With my SPDT relays, the 30 terminal is powering the 87a terminal until the 86 terminal gets power then the relay throws power to the 87 terminal. So when my headlights are off, the 87a terminal on both the relays is closed/87 is open, and when I turn the headlights on dim on one of the relays 87 is closed/87a is open the other stays the same. When I turn the highs on, the other terminal is 87 closed/87a open Right???
most conventional SPDT relays have the 87a terminal is "hot" when the switch is off and the 87 terminal is "hot" when the switch is on.
 
that is what I was trying to say, just couldnt put it in to words that simple. Thanks...
 
Just finished the install of these lights, and holy S*** what a difference! I upgraded to the 55/100W white bulbs. 1,000,000% better. Just followed the go.jeep-xj.info headlight loom upgrade. Everything went well. The new headlights were a little bit smaller than the OEMs but nothing major. This has got to be one of the best upgrades for the price you can do. The only thing I wonder is how long these India made blubs will last.
 
Mine are over a year old I think and the bulbs are fine, I was going to replace the bulbs with GE Night hawks, (I originally got the housings only because they were E-code and fit an H4 bulb) but the basic bulbs that come with the housings were good enough that I had a hard time justifying spending another 15 bucks.
 
Well, I'm starting on mine, I just picked up some more wire, wanted a third and fourth color for the low beams, high beams and power. I did pick up a set of 'high temperature' H4/9003 sockets from Auto Zone a few minutes ago, they look kind of nice, with the plastic wire sheathing and plug covers. Made by PulseFX, part number 84790, looking for relay sockets next as well as relays unless my Hella ones match up that I keep for spares for the fogs, those have fuses built into the relays.
 
I just ordered up one of these http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modules.asp,
I need to load SolidWork back on my computer, or just find some time at work and start working on the headlight design I'm going to try. I'll leave you with this crappy photoshop.
CopyofDSCN1064.jpg

No one better copy me.
 
I thought of doing that, but using two corvette projector fogs in the same housing. I think you'll be suprised at how little the 6054 housings really are once you take the lenses off and try to cram 2 housings inside. But pros to you! It's sort of a different take on HID retrofitting.
 
Sorry if this has been covered in this thread, but I don't recall it being covered yet.

Anyways, I just installed my Autopal E-codes two days ago and adjusted them...wow, what a difference over the sealed beams....so, when I am ready to buy new bulbs...what is the most wattage I can use with the factory harness without risking burnin up the harness or factory switch??

I know it's best to upgrade the harness, but it's not something I want to do, so therefore, what is the most I can use and still be safe with the factory harness? Thanks in advance!

Keep in mind, these will be used for extended periods of time in BOTH low and high beam modes.
 
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The boots are to keep moisture out and any that does get in is allowed to evaporate.
As for wattage, 100w is pushing it, 85 is about the safest to use wiithout melting the sockets.
 
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