Drivetrain shop in norcal

So looks like I am going to wait for an ARB. I checked the fluid, and it seems to be super clean, but I'll pull it apart friday.

Should I be nervous for a shop to install an arb? I don't trust any of the guys up here, cause I'll probably be one of few that have had an ARB installed, most people just weld the spiders. (Fail toyota trucks)

Im debating just coming down to the bay to get it all done. Most places want over 500 an axle with no parts.
 
Besides the crush sleeve (use genuine Mopar or solid spacer) mentioned previously, with 4.56 gears you need to grind the edges off of two teeth on the ring gear to get the cross pin slid into the carrier. It's not a big deal, and the instructions included with the ARB clearly show how it is done. Also, don't let them anywhere near the pinion nut with an impact wrench when installing the yoke. And, of course, make sure they use LocTite on the ring gear bolts.

I would ask if you can watch the process. If the shop balks at that, then I'd be a it suspicious. Yes, they may have insurance regs, etc., but they should still be willing to make an exception for you.

There is a chance I will have an extra ARB, entirely rebuilt by ARB directly. I had ARB rebuilt my old unit to have available, but then found a complete axle to swap. They replaced everything except the spider gears in it, so it is essentially brand new. It depends on what I find in my grenaded diff. However, it may be some time before I get a chance to examine that.

From what I spent, I'm not sure if you'll find someone cheaper than $500. Of course, my unit required extensive cleaning due to the ring gear bolts floating around in the axle for quite some time. If you could disassemble the unit, clean it up, and take it in out of the vehicle, you may be able to get it done cheaper.

David Bricker / SYR
 
Sounds good. The problem is that most places want 500 with an OPEN carrier.

One guy said 96 bucks an hour, 4 hours of work. Thats insane.

Is that arb for sale? :)
 
That was Rocky's.

I called Central Ave Service, the guy has set up arb's before, knows how important the crush sleeve is, but still wants 500 for the install. This might be the best bet.
 
The labor rate at my shop is 124 an hour and depending on the damage I've charged upwards of 9 hours for a complete over haul plus parts. It sounds crazy but by the time you clean everything and make sure its all set up properly you've gotta get paid for your time. I say around 500 for a reliable install is pretty frickn sweet. We warranty our work for atleast 18months/18,000 miles on pretty much anything. Problem is that we are all car junkies and work on our crap so when we have to pay someone we get sticker shock.
 
The ARB may end up being for sale, but I don't want to get your hopes up due to time frame. I live in upstate NY, and visit my Heep in Death Valley a few times a year. Work had been so busy this year, I've only gotten out three times. I will be going out next week to work on the thing, but I've got a front axle replacement to do, and may not get a chance to tear into the rear axle to find out the state of the existing ARB, which will tell me whether I need the fully rebuilt one.

I'd probably be looking for close to full price, though some discount will be there. Since it was rebuilt by ARB themselves, I'm confident it is equivilent to new. Also, not sure if yours is a 27 or 29 spine. The ARB I have is for 29 spline.

David Bricker / SYR
 
Alex E said:
... I've charged upwards of 9 hours for a complete over haul plus parts. It sounds crazy but by the time you clean everything ...
Click to expand...

This matches with what I experienced. I personally was there when my axle was taken apart, and the mechanic worked for 6 hours solid (minus lunch, of course) just taking apart and cleaning. Went through at least two dozen shop towels and three cans of brake cleaner before the towels started coming out clean. Even after all that, when setting the pinion bearing seal, a bolt remnant came out from a crevice (fortunately).

David Bricker / SYR
 
Yeah, with an arb install, and all new bearings, 500 sounds good.

The other guy wanted 500 just for gears only.
 
Pulled the cover today. Verdict-
-Gear oil was perfect.
-Seems like there is ZERO back lash, maybe a 16th of an inch. It is way tighter than my old axle.
-The ring gear seems to have the most wear on the edge. The pattern is off.

1a8dca6a.jpg

a906fbbf.jpg

This one is best. (Ignore the seemingly chipped teeth, they are clearanced for the center pin.)
81210f18.jpg
 
Kind of strange looking wear/abrasion on the ends of the ring gear teeth. Also, it looks like I'm seeing metal shavings sticking to the outside of the carrier?

David Bricker / SYR
 
I think it was southbay driveline. (I bought it geared from a member on here.)

Btw, those arent metal shavings, just pieces of my blue shop towels. I also used my finger to feel around, and check for any metal particulate, I found none.
 
Why did you have to cut down some of the teeth for the center pin?

Why not just pull the ring gear off, and then install the Aussie?

I have never done the 8.25, I missing something?
 
I didn't do it. The Aussie fits in no prob, but on 4.56 gears, the ring gear is so thick you have to make a little notch to slide the pin in.
 
srmitchell said:
I didn't do it. The Aussie fits in no prob, but on 4.56 gears, the ring gear is so thick you have to make a little notch to slide the pin in.
Click to expand...

The Dana 30 is the same way, I always just put the Aussie and center pin in before putting the ring gear back on. Notch'in the ring gear just sounds like a bad idea to me.

Maybe there is a reason for this, anyone else notch for the center pin?

Also looks like everything is fine in that axle, I would just run it.
 
Yeah, I plan on running it till it gets very bad.

Dave, I think its different from the d30 because its a c clip axle. The shafts dont slide out.

EDIT- beat me to it.
 
I guess it would be hard to get the C-clip on the axle if you can't pull the center pin. :dunce:

I totally forgot that the 8.25 was a c-clip axle.
 
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