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Dana 30 Tech

PapaPump said:
well, i was about to post a new thread, but i figured this question and subsequent (hopefully) info should be in here:
is the wj d30 a direct swap? i think it is the low pinion design, but i really want the brakes right now, and later on maybe i could build a high pinion if it becoms an issue. if it swaps right in, then this would be the most economical solutioin to a few issues i have with my current setup. but don't tell me why i shouldn't...i just want to know if it's possible. thanks all!
Click to expand...

Bolt pattern is 5 on 5" and the differential is low pinion.

I'm not sure if the control arm mounts on the axle are in the same locations. I think they are but you better verify that.
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
i have a question, once you do away with the vacuum disconnect, what do you do with the lines? is there a schematic somewhere of where to plug the lines or to loop them back into theirselves?
thanks

edit: i would like to get rid of them all together to transfer to an 88 cherokee that has the lines all ripped off.
Click to expand...

Remove the lines completely from the axle to the tcase vaccum switch. Then pull the lines from the switch to the motor... Then plug the lines where they T out of the intake manifold.

You can plug the vaccum switch on the trans if you want, but it's not really needed...
 
hjeepxj said:
When I did this "mod" it was kind of like a monkey alone with a football. I had the wrong seals at 1st (the ones from the Warn blockoff kit), spent god knows how long trying to pound a square peg into a round hole. :D

I might have some pics somewhere of how I finished it up. As for the install, you remove the carrier/ring set up, and you dont need to worry about teh shims, because they are inboard of the shims...Then it goes on the disconnect side (pass side) of the differential. You just put it in there, and give it a light tap, and your good to put it back together (make sure it faces the correct way. Not much to it really, once you're done youll wonder why everyone doesnt do it.

Any other Q's, just ask, Ill try to look up those pics.
Click to expand...

It's also easy to get either a big socket, or a peice of tub that just fits inside of the lip of the seal. Then use a long peice of pipe or tube and go through the driver side knuckle and tube and pound the seal in that way. That way it goes in straight every time :D
 
myjeepsbigger said:
Got this done a couple weeks ago. That seal did not work. The tube I.D. was a good 1/32 larger than the outer seal body. I ended up using a factory XJ seal for the single piece axle and machining out the inner diameter of the tube a few thousandths. Nice tight fit and i can use a factory replacement seal now if I ever need to change it.
Click to expand...

I've always told people to call Warn, as they sell just the seal from the block off kit seperatly. Is this the same seal you used?
 
little red cheroke said:
what year do i need to look for for a non disco 30?
Click to expand...

Anything with the NP242 would be a non-disco, however the earlier versions were the smaller joint shafts, unless they were also ABS equipped. Still a perfectly good housing. I run one from an '89 and I have one from an '87 sitting in the barn. I just buy big joint shafts and fresh 760 joints.

HTH
 
rcnerd said:
Hi....Would anyone care to offer some wisdom on replacing axle seals? i.e. techniques, tools, methods, things not to do etc...

I was sure I saw a wrieup of this kind somewhere but no luck finding it now...

Thanksss:helpme:
Click to expand...

Remove cover, drain fluid. Remove brakes and axle shafts. Remove carrier bearing caps. Make sure they go on the same side, same direction they came off as. Remove carrier. The seals will now be visible. You can try to pry them out inside the housing, or I used a round wooden peice of wood, the around the same size as the seal, to pound it out, through the axle tubes.

Clean the surface where the seal sits. I used a small ball peen hammer, to get the seals started. Then I used a socket, that fit where the seal is solid, to finish pounding them in. Reassemble, and add fluid.
 
CRASH has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space.
 
Great info. I' m new to the XJ world. I have an 88 Grand Wagoner that I have lifted and completely rebuilt. I recently bought a 94 XJ that the guy I bought it from sunk the nose into a ......puddle HA. They bent the rear axle when pulling it out. I have since r&r the rear. The front calipers, hub bearings, axle shaft bearings, ah well you get are screwed. I found a DS 30 at the junk yard. Can I reuse my axles in this housing? It seems like with changing the seal that I read about. Any input would be great. I can score the whole axle for 200 including the sway bar.Thanks..
 
Scooterchris05@com said:
Great info. I' m new to the XJ world. I have an 88 Grand Wagoner that I have lifted and completely rebuilt. I recently bought a 94 XJ that the guy I bought it from sunk the nose into a ......puddle HA. They bent the rear axle when pulling it out. I have since r&r the rear. The front calipers, hub bearings, axle shaft bearings, ah well you get are screwed. I found a DS 30 at the junk yard. Can I reuse my axles in this housing? It seems like with changing the seal that I read about. Any input would be great. I can score the whole axle for 200 including the sway bar.Thanks..
Click to expand...

I am 95% sure that 95% of Dana 30 shafts are interchangable :D
Billy
 
I bought a 97 xj with an arb air locker in the dana 30, the guy kept stock gears in it(3.55). I am planning on putting lower gears, 4.56 or 4.88, will i be able to change the gears and keep the locker. Note that i dont know to much about axle tech, the more you can tell me the better. Will i need to buy anything else beside the gear kit.
 
I'm not certain of where the carrier break occurs with the Dana 30 but I think you may be on the wrong side of it if you want to go to a reasonably lower ratio.

I had a similar problem with a Dana 44. I contacted ARB and they sent me new case halves so that I could get to the other side of the carrier break (3.73 to 4.56). I forget the price... long ago - couple hundred bucks maybe. Still cheaper than buying a new ARB if you can't find a buyer for the one you have now.

HTH
 
so crash ive already broken my turdy ring gear and i dont have the money to buy a new 44 or something to that nature...so im planning on fixing the turdy one more time and taking it easy but in the mean time building a junkyard 44 so your right up would shure help and yes everyone thats going to attack me i have read his other 44 writups thanks
 
feelinsomewheelin said:
I bought a 97 xj with an arb air locker in the dana 30, the guy kept stock gears in it(3.55). I am planning on putting lower gears, 4.56 or 4.88, will i be able to change the gears and keep the locker. Note that i dont know to much about axle tech, the more you can tell me the better. Will i need to buy anything else beside the gear kit.
Click to expand...
I believe you can get thick gears to work. I think the ring gear is thicker than normal.
 
can someone tell me how to identify the axle ratio? i bought a non disco 30 from a 96 with a 6 cylinder. i have an 88 with a vac. disco 30 and a 4 cylinder and i dont think the ratios will match ;) haha. thanks!
 
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