proracedriver616
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- co
Dana 30 inner C's
- Thread starter proracedriver616
- Start date
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
=)
Housing taken to bare tube and sleeved in 3x.250" DOM
Trussed with 2x4 .250" by Overkill Fabrications
Custom axle bracketry (.188 and .250) by Overkill Fabrications
Inner C's rotated for 12 degrees pinion and 6 caster
Inner C gussets from T&J Performance
WJ knuckles with JKS spacer
WJ brakes
WJ ball joints
WJ style steering over the knuckle
Tie rod, 1.25x.375" with WJ ends
Draglink, 1.25x.288" with high misalignment 1 ton ends
Trackbar, 1.25x.250" with RE upper and 7/8" rod end lower, RE bracket+brace
2" Superflex joints for axle UCA bushings
ARB air locker, 30 spline
Alloy-USA 30 spline 4130 inner shafts
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline hub kit
CTM u-joints
Precision 4.88 gears
Alloy-USA tube seals
U-bolt yoke
Crane CrMo diff cover
.. Now I'm working on replacing a front 44 with a front 60.
Housing taken to bare tube and sleeved in 3x.250" DOM
Trussed with 2x4 .250" by Overkill Fabrications
Custom axle bracketry (.188 and .250) by Overkill Fabrications
Inner C's rotated for 12 degrees pinion and 6 caster
Inner C gussets from T&J Performance
WJ knuckles with JKS spacer
WJ brakes
WJ ball joints
WJ style steering over the knuckle
Tie rod, 1.25x.375" with WJ ends
Draglink, 1.25x.288" with high misalignment 1 ton ends
Trackbar, 1.25x.250" with RE upper and 7/8" rod end lower, RE bracket+brace
2" Superflex joints for axle UCA bushings
ARB air locker, 30 spline
Alloy-USA 30 spline 4130 inner shafts
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline hub kit
CTM u-joints
Precision 4.88 gears
Alloy-USA tube seals
U-bolt yoke
Crane CrMo diff cover
.. Now I'm working on replacing a front 44 with a front 60.
- Location
- Aurora, Colorado
=)
Housing taken to bare tube and sleeved in 3x.250" DOM
Trussed with 2x4 .250" by Overkill Fabrications
Custom axle bracketry (.188 and .250) by Overkill Fabrications
Inner C's rotated for 12 degrees pinion and 6 caster
Inner C gussets from T&J Performance
WJ knuckles with JKS spacer
WJ brakes
WJ ball joints
WJ style steering over the knuckle
Tie rod, 1.25x.375" with WJ ends
Draglink, 1.25x.288" with high misalignment 1 ton ends
Trackbar, 1.25x.250" with RE upper and 7/8" rod end lower, RE bracket+brace
2" Superflex joints for axle UCA bushings
ARB air locker, 30 spline
Alloy-USA 30 spline 4130 inner shafts
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline hub kit
CTM u-joints
Precision 4.88 gears
Alloy-USA tube seals
U-bolt yoke
Crane CrMo diff cover
.. Now I'm working on replacing a front 44 with a front 60.
Finally, pictures of cal's infamous 30! :clap:
Scott
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
eh, its not really picture worthy. Scrappy built one that was damn sexy..
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
proracedriver616
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- co
thats a pretty nice 30 you built there now that its all said and done do you think it was worth it, any problems yet? Where did you find the dom to sleeve the tubes with, everywhere ive checked so far locally says its a special order size so ill have to buy a 20ft stick. It doesnt look like you trussed the inner C's? The more i look at the bent axle thats currently on my jeep, the more i think the top of the c's bent inward.
I got a christmas present from the ups man this afternoon, ill take some pics tomorrow.
seth
now that its all said and done do you think it was worth it, any problems yet? Where did you find the dom to sleeve the tubes with, everywhere ive checked so far locally says its a special order size so ill have to buy a 20ft stick. It doesnt look like you trussed the inner C's? The more i look at the bent axle thats currently on my jeep, the more i think the top of the c's bent inward. I got a christmas present from the ups man this afternoon, ill take some pics tomorrow.
seth
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
It got the job done. I beat on it for a couple years, the biggest weak link was the balljoints; use spicer or go home. Moog would last me a few months, Crown would last me 1-3 runs, but Spicer lasted an entire season.
Yes, it was supposed to have gussets for the inner C's, but the welder I had do the work felt they were unnecessary and left them off. I ended up buying the T&J's gusset kit, and its sitting next to the 30..
That rig was rolled new years weekend last year.. i ended up buying Goatmans old XJ (which had a front 44 already) and parting the black rig out; both axles (the rear was built to match the front) and the wheels/tires went to a local Naxja member and good friend. I gave him a full set of spares (inner shafts, outer shafts, balljoints, steering, warn spindle, hubs, etc) but I don't anticipate him needing to do any more than balljoints on it in its lifetime.
The 3x.250 " DOM came from a local metal shop (i walked there and picked it up..). I had to order it a day in advance, they cut it offsite and sent the section I wanted to the local office (bought 4').. The shop was called Borrman steel, in Burbank, CA. I think paid close to 20 bucks a foot, though - I didn't bother shopping around much because it wasn't enough money to cry over, and it was very convenient.
In retrospect I wouldn't have changed anything, but I probably wouldnt do it again. I'd throw some chromo shafts, an aussie and a light truss onto a 30 and run it until it breaks, but spend my big money on a 44.. the bigger balljoints and hi-steer are priceless - that said, that is the only real reason. I drove that rig like a lead footed hillbilly (I'm not the best driver in the world...) and it never occured to me to worry about it breaking.
Yes, it was supposed to have gussets for the inner C's, but the welder I had do the work felt they were unnecessary and left them off. I ended up buying the T&J's gusset kit, and its sitting next to the 30..
That rig was rolled new years weekend last year.. i ended up buying Goatmans old XJ (which had a front 44 already) and parting the black rig out; both axles (the rear was built to match the front) and the wheels/tires went to a local Naxja member and good friend. I gave him a full set of spares (inner shafts, outer shafts, balljoints, steering, warn spindle, hubs, etc) but I don't anticipate him needing to do any more than balljoints on it in its lifetime.
The 3x.250 " DOM came from a local metal shop (i walked there and picked it up..). I had to order it a day in advance, they cut it offsite and sent the section I wanted to the local office (bought 4').. The shop was called Borrman steel, in Burbank, CA. I think paid close to 20 bucks a foot, though - I didn't bother shopping around much because it wasn't enough money to cry over, and it was very convenient.
In retrospect I wouldn't have changed anything, but I probably wouldnt do it again. I'd throw some chromo shafts, an aussie and a light truss onto a 30 and run it until it breaks, but spend my big money on a 44.. the bigger balljoints and hi-steer are priceless - that said, that is the only real reason. I drove that rig like a lead footed hillbilly (I'm not the best driver in the world...) and it never occured to me to worry about it breaking.
proracedriver616
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- co
got another something for the axle....
Havent been working on the axle too much lately because of a few things... first of all i started on my new transmission and rear link crossmembers
Thats just the end of the crossmember where it will bolt to the framerails, i did it double layered so the bolt heads would be counter sunk and not get as hung up on rocks as if they were just sitting below the metal
I also got a little bigger box at work today so it might be a little while before i have extra money for jeep stuff
seth
Havent been working on the axle too much lately because of a few things... first of all i started on my new transmission and rear link crossmembers
Thats just the end of the crossmember where it will bolt to the framerails, i did it double layered so the bolt heads would be counter sunk and not get as hung up on rocks as if they were just sitting below the metal
I also got a little bigger box at work today so it might be a little while before i have extra money for jeep stuff
seth
xj9140
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Your welding skills could use some improvements.
Your people skills could use a drastic change...
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Bwaahhhhhhaaaaaaa, nailed it Jim!!
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
The welds look sufficient to me .....
I think everyone in here would be in agreement strong welds (that are ugly) are better than pretty welds (that are weak). It could probably use a tiny bit more heat ... but there is enough surface area coverage. And we don't know how the "penetration discoloration" on the back side looks, as it was already painted.
Post up your welds.
Joe
I think everyone in here would be in agreement strong welds (that are ugly) are better than pretty welds (that are weak). It could probably use a tiny bit more heat ... but there is enough surface area coverage. And we don't know how the "penetration discoloration" on the back side looks, as it was already painted.
Post up your welds.
Joe
hot_rod_hooligans
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Indianapolis
IDK this is probably too late to be any help. Why not get those 44 inner "C"s and run 44 knuckles?
If it's an issue with the wheels, wouldn't you be able to re-drill it to 5-5.5"?
If it's an issue with the wheels, wouldn't you be able to re-drill it to 5-5.5"?
xj9140
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Last edited:
xj9140
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
a few welds. Ignore the crack lol
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
That's a lot of spatter for something you are trying to show off.
And I'd just love to see how much camber your rear axle just gained by welded that metal stock to the housing. I almost want to say you don't have enough weldment for that thickness of material you have there.
You have no place to criticize unless you're a friend of the original poster and it's a friendly jab (not getting that impression).
And I'd just love to see how much camber your rear axle just gained by welded that metal stock to the housing. I almost want to say you don't have enough weldment for that thickness of material you have there.
You have no place to criticize unless you're a friend of the original poster and it's a friendly jab (not getting that impression).
xj9140
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Apologies for coming across like a ass. I was hesitant in posting, but you did ask. I'll post up my own thread when its finished.
Proracedriver, your front ends comming together nicely, I like what you did with the coil brackets and great work on repairing your inner c's. Be sure and gusset them and the wheels..... sweet dude
proracedriver616
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- co
First of all this is getting rediculous lol, it would be nice if a thread about dana 30s would stay remotely on topic and some people would relax a little bit. I dont really need to defend my welds, those particular ones arent super pretty but they are good welds, part of the reason they look the way they do is because i have a lincoln 110. Thats what i used when i built my rims and everything else on my jeep and no problems yet.
heres another couple pictures of the crossmembers....and the welds on them
its kind of hard to see since the whole crossmember has been scotchbrite'd to get it ready to be painted but if you look in the last picture you can still see the heat affect zone a little around the recessed spot for the tranny mount. Having a good heat affect zone on the opposite side of double layered 1/4" steel is pretty good. I can lay out some really nice looking welds but when welding that thick of steel for a crossmember with a 110 penetration is my main goal, not how the welds look really.
seth
heres another couple pictures of the crossmembers....and the welds on them
its kind of hard to see since the whole crossmember has been scotchbrite'd to get it ready to be painted but if you look in the last picture you can still see the heat affect zone a little around the recessed spot for the tranny mount. Having a good heat affect zone on the opposite side of double layered 1/4" steel is pretty good. I can lay out some really nice looking welds but when welding that thick of steel for a crossmember with a 110 penetration is my main goal, not how the welds look really.
seth
EndlessMtnFab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paxtonia, PA
