D60 Install

[Ghost]

Shares the part number as what? I don't believe they are the same MC.

They are not the same I think my IE did something flaky. Went to O'really's and spent $64.99 for a brand spanking new one. I figured that was a decent price and worth it to know I can stop the jeep when I go to Harlan next month. :gee:

Yes, I did mean Durango master. I think it has a larger 1 1/8" bore. If you use a booster like my '95. The booster and Durango master should be a bolt on with no mods to rod length. The '97 up master has a longer rod that attaches the pedal assly. I think this is what you discovered already. Would you have a long enough stud to run a spacer between the booster and firewall? That would probably be the easy fix if you wanted to stay with the '97 booster.

Pirate THREAD on Master/ booster combos.

Ugh, I hate Pirate. I should be able to space it out without a problem. Picked up some washers at lunch. Lennie, aforementioned mechanic suggested using a piece of plate. Seems like there is a seal there that keep water out of the booster and out of the cab. :dunno:

Worth noting... .25" may not seem like much, but that results in a 56% increase in fluid flow for the same pedal movement.

Interesting that the WJ and 97 XJ MCs have the same diameter and fittings but aren't the same part number - do they bolt up the same way? I know my 94-down booster/MC had four mounting bolts while the WJ and apparently 97-up (95-up? I don't remember what they look like) XJ booster/MC have 2 mounting bolts for the MC.

The '97 booster bolts up to the same as the '94. Mine slide right in with some tweaking of the bracket on the inside of the body. I noticed the Dodge has a different fitting for the line then the older xj's. Mine is an double flare IIRC and this is a bubble flare? Anyone know off hand what the proportioning valve is? I think its a double flare. So I grabbed some line while I was there. I did forget fluid though. LOL! I think one of the boxes of fluid in the back has one in it though. Just need to remember to replace it before Harlan. :wierd:

On a side note I just noticed the multi quote button. Much essayer then copy paste. :wierd: :roll:

 

[kastein]

Prop valve is double flare on everything I've ever seen. The WJ fittings are a bubble flare though iirc - instead of screwing around with it, I just cut the stock lines on the donor vehicle as close to the ABS modulator as I could and reshaped them to line up with the prop valve on my MJ, then double flared. Used a second set of WJ fittings and lines to make my bench bleeding tubes.

 

[Ghost]

Prop valve is double flare on everything I've ever seen. The WJ fittings are a bubble flare though iirc - instead of screwing around with it, I just cut the stock lines on the donor vehicle as close to the ABS modulator as I could and reshaped them to line up with the prop valve on my MJ, then double flared. Used a second set of WJ fittings and lines to make my bench bleeding tubes.

Ok so all I need to do is cut and flare. I suck at flaring!

 

[kastein]

I can double flare in my sleep at this point... something about having replaced the entire brake system on two jeeps, with another one on the list. Still don't have the gear for doing bubble flares though.

 

[jeeperjohn]

I can double flare in my sleep at this point... something about having replaced the entire brake system on two jeeps, with another one on the list. Still don't have the gear for doing bubble flares though.

Thetoolwarehouse.net has a hydraulic flaring tool that I drool over every time I'm on their website. It's on sale right now but I is po'.

 

[Ghost]

Ok decision time. No one in town has a 1/4 - 28 bolt in grade 8. I bought some from Lowe's that are grade 5. Isn't the grade mostly the hardness of the bolt? Seems like a grade 5 would work fine. What do you guys think? I will be calling Fastenall later but they are 20 min away. the drawback to be in a small town in South Carolina!

 

[RCman]

Ok decision time. No one in town has a 1/4 - 28 bolt in grade 8. I bought some from Lowe's that are grade 5. Isn't the grade mostly the hardness of the bolt? Seems like a grade 5 would work fine. What do you guys think? I will be calling Fastenall later but they are 20 min away. the drawback to be in a small town in South Carolina!

Eh, grade 5 will probably be fine. It is just a push rod after all and I would almost be surprised if the stock factory one was hardened. Sounds like you need a new hardware store. Both the little Mom&Pops near me have a huge selection. Even Class 12.9 and Grade 9 stuff.

The other option is to make a spacer to drop into the MC push rod bore like mentioned above.

Or when do you need it by? I can drop on in an envelope and throw a stamp on it if you need one.

 

[Ghost]

Eh, grade 5 will probably be fine. It is just a push rod after all and I would almost be surprised if the stock factory one was hardened. Sounds like you need a new hardware store. Both the little Mom&Pops near me have a huge selection. Even Class 12.9 and Grade 9 stuff.

The other option is to make a spacer to drop into the MC push rod bore like mentioned above.

Or when do you need it by? I can drop on in an envelope and throw a stamp on it if you need one.

Appreciate that. I am trying to get the brakes done after woork today so that next week I can work on a traction bar. I have an "idea" of what I want but not sure if I can pull it off. So I have a plan b ready to go when I fail with my ghetto fab skills. :cheers:

 

[kastein]

I would be shocked if grade 5 isn't good enough... Especially since it's under compression, not shear, torsion, or tension. I say run it, get the grade 8 stuff when you have a chance.

 

[Ghost]

Ok, so I went back to Advanced when the manager that i know was there and found a 3" grade 8 .25 - 28 bolt! Cut it down to about 2" and it appears to fit fine. Bench bleed the master, that was a first for me, started to bend up the lines and the fittings were wrong! ARGH! 7pm on a Friday night and I'm pissed. The MC has two different size fittings the front is a 12mm and the rear is a 10mm. So I bent up the rear since I had bought 2 10mm and hauled ass at 8 to Advanced. Found the other size but only on 6mm line. So I bought the 12mm fitting and the 3/16th line and hauled ass back here! It's 9 pm on a Friday night and the master is in.

Hood is really close to the cap, and she is tilted a lot. Am thinking about pulling one of the washers on the bottom set of studs. I also noticed that the bracket that holds the switch might could be modified to move the switch back instead of the MC being spaced off the firewall. I want to find a 97 bracket and see if its a lot different and if it could be swapped into my 94. But that is for later. Right now I have to make a 2 hour drive to go see the kids and the wife in Aiken, SC. Thanks for all the help. Bleeding should be done Sunday or Monday for a test drive.

 

[kastein]

I reused the stock fittings to avoid that issue. Lines, too, because I liked the flexible sections and wanted to keep them it was all kinds of easy.

 

[Ghost]

Got it all back together now. Drove it in the field and was locking up the rear. Front dives but does not lock. I'll have to get a pro to help me bleed I guess. Now time to get started on the traction bar.

 

[RCman]

Got it all back together now. Drove it in the field and was locking up the rear. Front dives but does not lock. I'll have to get a pro to help me bleed I guess. Now time to get started on the traction bar.

Sure you don't need a new/different prop valve?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/

 

[Ghost]

Sure you don't need a new/different prop valve?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/

Not sure whats it do? LOL! I pulled the o ring off the one in the xj. Does it change the bias? I think that is the right word.

 

[Ghost]

Ok, would a GC that had disk brakes fix it or is an adjustable one mandatory? Anyone have any input?

 

[Ghost]

Did some testing at a local spot after work:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1035677

OK, I noticed that the pinion turns up when the rear is in flex:

I assume this is normal. I have never really paid much attention to this. The pinion points to the tcase, like it's suppose to, but I think I might should move it down. Would a traction bar stop the rotation but keep the flex if its centered? Therefor not making me cut off the spring pads and welding them back on. I'm thinking like BrianHo has, slip and twist style. I have till the 30 to get this all straight. So please offer some opinions.

 

[jeeperjohn]

I wouldn't worry about the pinion because it seems to be fine at normal ride height. I don't think it will rotate enough to cause any real problems.

 

[cracker]

I think it is axle wrap but what kind of shackles are on there? Boomerang?

 

[Ghost]

I think it is axle wrap but what kind of shackles are on there? Boomerang?

Greaseable daystar with the HD engernering relocation bracket.

 

[vetteboy]

Ok, would a GC that had disk brakes fix it or is an adjustable one mandatory? Anyone have any input?

I run a '98 Dodge 2500 master cylinder on a '95 ZJ dual-diaphragm booster, with the proportioning valve from the same ZJ (4 wheel disc). Calipers are the large single-pistons on the front 60 and the normal GM 1/2-ton ones on the rear.

Bias is perfect and stopping power & pedal feel are excellent.