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D60 Install

So um you should never um cut or weld on any shock..... with that said

take your hehe.... shock out of the front... hehe and um unbolt the the stud eliminator, extend the shock fully and cut the eyelet off the top of the shaft, find a grade 8 3/8" or bigger bolt about 2" long and weld the bastard to the top of your shaft...... he he. Ok now find some proper washers and bushings... re attach through factory shock mount. now you have 5 inches of up travel.

I know everyone is going to hate this idea dude but it works ive done it so many times when guys wont pay for the right shocks and bring some old long ranchos or something and are like these will work right??? dur dur dur. in this case u can fix stupid. (not calling you stupid.) just old :)
your track bar is finished im shipping it to you today
andy

Too funny. I have been considering raising it about 1.5" but I really like the low lift with big tires.
 
I agreed with the low lift, thing, but I have 3" of uptravel and the Jeep is back on jackstand getting that taken care of. I was hitting the bumpstops contantly until they collapsed and gave me some awesome metal on metal. I'd really try and squeeze at least another 1" or so of uptravel out. It makes lift alot less frustrating on the trail.
 
I agreed with the low lift, thing, but I have 3" of uptravel and the Jeep is back on jackstand getting that taken care of. I was hitting the bumpstops contantly until they collapsed and gave me some awesome metal on metal. I'd really try and squeeze at least another 1" or so of uptravel out. It makes lift alot less frustrating on the trail.
Plan is to adress the shackle angle issue with something and a spacer up front. That should help a lot. TY all for the kind words.
 
Im curious i see you ordered your centers are they the 3.5" press ins or what I am still curious how you'll do it. also looking for a 70 for ya
a
No one that I could find had the press in ones in stock. Would be 1 week before they had any on hand to ship. SO I ordered a regular set. I'm currently irritated bc I have not received any shipping info on them yet. If I don't receive some info or the centers by Friday I'll be posting on Pirate where the vendor sell them. :firedevil: I talked to a local machine shop about it, if I dont like there price I talked to my nephiew aobut welding them in one Saturday. Incedently I also talked to him about welding the long tube to the center chunk. He said no problem. I asked him because he use to teach welding at the local Tech College I figured he would know who to go to. :thumbup:
 
I have a spacer on its way form one of the fine members on here! I received some BLING from the man in the white truck!

BFHSA.jpg


H1WCMac.jpg
 
I got the H1's recentered. Decided to run the mag inserts and have them on their way. So far I have $397 in a set of four bouble beadlock rims. Not too bad when one can cost that much. Installed front calipers and lost the adapter for thelines. So back to the parts store for 2 more $2 replacements. Old Blue was a huge help by painting said rims. Mounted the steering arm and really want to keep it shinny. :clap: I guess I'll hit it with clear. LOL! Dave took some pictures I did not. Will have some some time soon.
 
Ok got the bump stop somewhat worked out. Had to put some 1.5 tube inside to extend it enough to keep the shock from being the bump stop.

D60Swap022.jpg

maybe just me being overly critical, but i would kiss that bump goodbye on the first hard hit it takes. if that's what you're going to do, you should be putting some sort of a sleeve over the the stock mount and the extension you have on there now, as well as reinforcing the crap out of the stock mounts inner fender bulge. just looks kind of sketch to me. that's all my advice
 
maybe just me being overly critical, but i would kiss that bump goodbye on the first hard hit it takes. if that's what you're going to do, you should be putting some sort of a sleeve over the the stock mount and the extension you have on there now, as well as reinforcing the crap out of the stock mounts inner fender bulge. just looks kind of sketch to me. that's all my advice
I will probalby put more tacks on it but I will not weld it and reinforce it too much. It its going to go I want it to go not the entire front end. I dont have long runs through a dessert to get to the obsticles where I run. I have actually run this shock for 2 years with no issues except it was the bumpstop. That is the only reason I have added some additional suport.
 
TY Old Blue for the pictures.
H1 centers welded up.
B4Paint.jpg


Rings B4 paint.
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Painting. TY Dave aka Old Blue for the paint job!
AfterPaint-1.jpg


Center welded and painted!
RearAFterPaint.jpg


Hammer metal finish.
HammeredMetal.jpg
 
More stuff done.
Spacer arrived today. TY Olerland!
GlennMayday079.jpg


Heim for the TB arrived late yesterday.

GlennMayday080.jpg


Waiting on beadlocks for H1's, Tapered reamer and TRE from Parts Mike, 1310 yoke from NC 4x4 member, and I need to replace the rear hard lines. Need to install conversion joint in the front and torque all the stuff down that is still loose. Have to measure for the draglink once the other rod is here. I need to order a lock-right for the front and decied on the rear. Weld it as is or convert to 35 sline shafts. I have a line on a 35 spl spool on NC 4x4 so all I would need to do is order shafts and bore the spindles if they are the wrong size.
 
I broke down and got set of mag runflats/beadlocks since no one seemed to have a clue about the runflats that I received with my rims. Did some researech on Pirate and with others that run them locally about runnig them with SS tires. Apparently they need to be cut down so they will not trash the tires. So I received the runflats yesterday and started on my adventure. Never again. Next time I spend the extra coing for the PVC beadlock. :twak:
 
Got them all trimmed up over the last two days. A 60 grit flapper wheel does wonders to smoth the rough edges. Working on putting them together today!

VC051.jpg
 
Two down and two to go!

SSH1s_0001.jpg
 
Got them all trimmed up over the last two days. A 60 grit flapper wheel does wonders to smoth the rough edges. Working on putting them together today!

VC051.jpg
Well now, no phone call???? How am I to load up if you still in da house?
:dunno:
 
Ok so from here it looks done.

SSH1s_0002.jpg


But here you see the rear is not quite there.

SSH1s_0003.jpg


Things left to do. Drag link to high steer arm, flip tie rod, new orings in H1's, swap to conversion joint in the front, swap yoke out in the rear, tighten and torque bolts and she will be able to move on its own. Next I will need to install the hydro assist, and lockers.
 
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Here she sits on her own weight.

D60s_0007.jpg



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I definately have some triming to do! LOL!

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So here is the new problem. Rear DS is too long. Going from a 9" to a D60 looses quite a bit of length. :helpme: So I have a few choices. Flip the springs and move the axle back. Call tom woods and see what it would cost to have him cut the DS down, cut it down myself, or 4 link the rear and move the axle back about 2"-3" just enough to use the DS I have. I'll probably jsut cut the shaft down. IIRC fliping the springs gives about 4" more wheel base and makes more axle wrap, and you have to move the fuel tank. :twak: Pitman arm came in and it is the wrong one, so it has to go back. Sugestions and or comments are welcome. What about just moving the front spring mount back 2" or so? It would definately make my shackle angle better.
 
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Rig looks great. I'm in the process of full size axle hunt. I was thinking 44/9, is there a reason you got rid of yours? Is the new axles the same width as the old ones?
 
Rig looks great. I'm in the process of full size axle hunt. I was thinking 44/9, is there a reason you got rid of yours? Is the new axles the same width as the old ones?
Yes, the first run I broke a ujoint on the D44. Thrid or fourth run I broke a long side inner axle at the diff. A couple runs later I broke the 9" by spitting the pinion gear out the side of the housing. All on 36's with an auto and dual 203/205 cases. I figured if I wanted to run a big tire with 4:1 low I needed more axle.
 
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