D30 WJ Brakes Steering Setup?

[Kingkong0192]

Figured i'd start a new thread to clear the waters and attempt to organize everything into one thread so i can process it easier.

For those who don't know i just bought two new axles. A D30 and a D44. Both regeared to 4.56 and both have aussie lockers in them.

The only questions i have pertain to the front axle.

My Jeep:

- 32x11.5x15 BFG KM2s
- Rough Country 4.5" Long Arm Lift Kit
- IRO Double Shear Track Bar
- Currie HD Steering (Drag Link + Tie Rod)

My Questions:

- The D30 has WJ Brakes on it. I've read about offset TREs not clearing 15" wheels. I don't have offset TREs. I just have a straight tie rod that goes from knuckle to knuckle. Is there a problem here? He said something about the knuckles not going from lock to lock because i don't have offset TREs. Is this a problem?

- The track bar. What kind of track bar do i use? He gave me a RE Trackbar with the axles, but i'm not sure if that one will work? Picture shows the trackbar.

- The drag link. Do i need a different one? Do i need to ream anything out? Is there anything better than heims? Any setup i should be aware of?

I think that's about all i need to know unless there is information that would help me along here. I can't even begin to thank you guys for the knowledge.

 

[Devilfrog]

The offset TRE require ginding. Heims don't. I have GM/dodge truck TRE's and I can fit 15" steel wheel no issues. Alloys are a little tighter but do clear. Each weel will have to be tested. I have the Teeves calipers.
To gain your full steering you'll need to put a bend in the tie rod, or use offset tre's. I did the bend and used a synergy double adjuster.

 

[whitexj98]

The track bar came off an xj with these axles, should go on yours just fine unless I’m missing something.

You could probably swap those right in with no clearance issues if you want to keep the heims, if you want TREs it will take some researching and test fitting with your wheels.

Your pitman arm has a TRE, this is setup for heims, if you run them as set up then you will need to drill out the pitman arm.

I would take some time get them all cleaned up and serviced, seals/ bushings/ ect. Do a ton of researching; there are tons of write-ups and threads on WJ swaps and steering. Then swap them in with a solid plan.

 

[xj^REMY]

[/U][/B]- The D30 has WJ Brakes on it. I've read about offset TREs not clearing 15" wheels. I don't have offset TREs. I just have a straight tie rod that goes from knuckle to knuckle. Is there a problem here? He said something about the knuckles not going from lock to lock because i don't have offset TREs. Is this a problem?

- The track bar. What kind of track bar do i use? He gave me a RE Trackbar with the axles, but i'm not sure if that one will work? Picture shows the trackbar.

- The drag link. Do i need a different one? Do i need to ream anything out? Is there anything better than heims? Any setup i should be aware of?

I think that's about all i need to know unless there is information that would help me along here. I can't even begin to thank you guys for the knowledge.

I really think you need to do some research on your own, rather than keep asking questions that have been covered a thousand times over. Not to be a dick, but by some of your recent posts, you seem super anxious to build up the jeep & just want to throw parts at it without some knowledge first.

I'm sure sardo already explained all of this to you (in fact I know all this stuff has already been mentioned in the other threads), these axles are bolt in. Very little modifications need to be made.

Don't know how much you know of the set up, but you don't just have WJ brakes, the set up has WJ knuckles (plus the welded on spacer), 99+ XJ/TJ unit bearings, & at least the lower WJ ball joints.

The reason why offset TRE's are needed on your D30 is because the tie rod is coming in contact with the diff cover before the steering gets to full lock. Offset TRE's will position the tie rod a bit further out (from the axle) so that the tie rod does not come in contact with the diff cover before full lock. Offset TRE's are not the only solution. By doing some research you could find a diff cover that could work with your tie rod with heims.

Nothing wrong with heims. Lots of discussions for using heims on a daily driver vs not. Gotta read up & decide if they suit your needs/application.

This set up requires a straight track bar, since the axle end is now Over The Axle (OTA). This is to match the draglink angle. Your IRO cannot be used. What is pictured is the double sheer track bar bracket with a custom built straight track bar & RE track bar brace. All of this will bolt right up. Only thing that needs to be modified is your pitman arm, the hole where the drag link bolts to, needs to be reamed to accommodate the larger bolt of the new drag link. Now, this is assuming your pitman arm will work with the set up. Don't know if you have a stock or drop arm. Also, looks like you would be able to make adjustments on the track bar axle end mount, to try & match the drag link angle.

Not trying to offend, just spend some more time doing your own research.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

as whitexj98 said, youll have to drill your pitman arm out for heims. you can no longer run these knuckles with TREs unless you install tapered inserts (which at this point is quite easy). you wont be able to reuse those links with TREs though, as the TPI is different.



OP, question... what is the outer diameter of the steering links?

 

[5-Speed XJ]

I know the builder of those axles they worked great he used to be one here but has a yj project now.

 

[blondejoncherokee]

dude, bolt them up and go. I spent a ton of time researching before I did my Wj swap in decemember, like days of reading countless WJ swap threads. So do many others. I suggest you do the same as everyone else. I also suggest bolting on the axles and just see where you have issues and fix them as they come.

The D30 has WJ Brakes on it. I've read about offset TREs not clearing 15" wheels. I don't have offset TREs. I just have a straight tie rod that goes from knuckle to knuckle. Is there a problem here? He said something about the knuckles not going from lock to lock because i don't have offset TREs. Is this a problem?

Dude bolt it up and go. you need to be more specific on "15" rims, since with enough backspacing and youll be into the knuckles. you need to ask something like do 15" 3.75 back spaced cragar soft 8s clear? if you ask a vague question you'll probably get vague answers . also not all 15" rims are the same. steelies versus aluminum, different steelies versus stokcers, etc . I ran 3.75" of backspacing on 15" black steelies and cleared my Currie TREs just fine. had to grind the caliper to clear the knuckle. you cant run your currie now unless you went back to a stock trackbar setup and a welded in some goferit inserts. so sell your currie stuff. some 3/4 or 5/8 hems will clear the rims no problem. you should be worried about grinding the calipers if you are running akebono calipers though, really easy to grind though, doesnt take alot off to clear.

- The track bar. What kind of track bar do i use? He gave me a RE Trackbar with the axles, but i'm not sure if that one will work? Picture shows the trackbar.

- The drag link. Do i need a different one? Do i need to ream anything out? Is there anything better than heims? Any setup i should be aware of?

did you research at all before you bought this? you are running hiems now with this setup since the pic shows hiems. its as simple as whatever size bolt is in the hiem at the pitman arm, drill out pitman arm to that diameter (5/8" bolt means 5/8" drill bit). bolt up drag link.
Youre done.

 

[clean4drxj]

As long as the heims are tight run it as is...

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

OP, question... what is the outer diameter of the steering links?

:wave:

 

[sunburned]

did you research at all before you bought this? you are running hiems now with this setup since the pic shows hiems. its as simple as whatever size bolt is in the hiem at the pitman arm, drill out pitman arm to that diameter (5/8" bolt means 5/8" drill bit). bolt up drag link.
Youre done.

Yes he did. He has a whole thread debating buying the axles where everyone told him all he had to do was drill the pitman arm and be done. Now that he bought the axles, he made another thread where everyone told him to drill the pitman arm and be done.

:doh:

Hasta

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Yes he did. He has a whole thread debating buying the axles where everyone told him all he had to do was drill the pitman arm and be done. Now that he bought the axles, he made another thread where everyone told him to drill the pitman arm and be done.

:doh:

Hasta

wow..... although If he has two threads asking the same questions he probably didnt research much at all.

 

[Kingkong0192]

No, you're right. I didn't research at all and now i'm here getting bashed by everyone for not doing my research first when i'm trying to do research by posting a bunch of questions and wrap my head around this.

If you posted in every thread on this forum 'DID YOU EVEN RESEARCH FIRST' we wouldn't even need the forum. You could just lock the forum and everyone who needed something answered could just search it because everything has been covered.

Yeah, i might be beating a dead horse to you guys as you know exactly how to do this, but i don't. I don't have the slightest idea and you just assume i should pick it up naturally. It's like assuming a blind guy knows what red looks like.

Rant over.

Good deal came up and i jumped on it. If i took the time to research beforehand i might of not gotten the axles.

Honestly, i was going to just rip all the WJ steering shenanigans off, and run stock XJ brakes on it and just hold off on the WJ stuff until i actually read up on it and figured it out.

I KNOW NOTHING about this setup, and everyone just tells me to 'oh go by x' and then they assume i know how to do the rest.

My rim is a 15" crager soft 8 steelie with either 4.5 or 4.75" backspacing.

My current problem is my tie rod (which is 52 1/2" center to center) hits the diff cover before the knuckles get to full turn. I was thinking about grinding the diff cover down slightly to fix this. I also don't know if my drag link (34" center to center") is long enough.

Sure it was bolted into an XJ before mine, but that doesn't mean it was done correctly. I have all of this out now and i want to do it right the first time instead of half assing it.

 

[Hypoid]

I appreciate your analogy, lets not toss the baby with the bathwater.

First, I would not grind the diff cover. It has a resale value just as it is. Second, the tie rod has a resale value, just as it is. You can recoup some cash by replacing either one.

That said, I have seen pictues of plate steel covers that were sectioned to clear a tie rod. Whatever you decide to do, you'll likely need some welding. I guess it is just the matter of what you want to spend money on.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I would consider putting a bend in the tie rod, or make/buy one that has a bend in it and sell your current one. Nothing wrong with doing as such. Many have done it.

 

[sunburned]

My current problem is my tie rod (which is 52 1/2" center to center) hits the diff cover before the knuckles get to full turn. I was thinking about grinding the diff cover down slightly to fix this. I also don't know if my drag link (34" center to center") is long enough.

Sure it was bolted into an XJ before mine, but that doesn't mean it was done correctly. I have all of this out now and i want to do it right the first time instead of half assing it.

I had the same problem when I went OTK with a straight tie rod. I cut a chunk out of my diff cover and patched it for clearance. Then the tie rod hit the coil buckets. I ended up buying just the tie rod from Iron Rock Offroad's steering kit because it was bent and cleared everything. Welded tabs to it for the drag link and all was solved.

You should be able to do the same thing since you have the WJ knuckles on an XJ axle. Call or email IRO and ask them if you can just buy the tie rod from this kit http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...=IROR&Product_Code=IR-TOTKS&Category_Code=XST
Don't get their 'heavy duty tie rod' because that one is straight. Make sure you specify it's the one with bends in it. After that, you just have to make sure the heims that come with it are the correct bolt size for your drilled out knuckles.

As for the drag link, the only way to tell if everything is the right length is to bolt it up and measure. 34" sounds about right to me, but my steering is a bit different than yours.


We're trying to give you advice, but you need to do some work first and post pics so we can actually help you more. Those axles should fit just fine on your XJ, but nobody will know for sure unless you install the damn things. If this is your DD, then I guess you'll just have to take a chance.

 

[Kingkong0192]

It's been some time. Been working on these axles.

Everything is situated or so i think.

Anyways, got one of my tires bolted to the axle for a test fit, and my caliper is rubbing on my wheel. Should i grind the caliper or should i get wheel spacers or wheels with a different backspaacing?

I have crager soft 8s with 3.75" backspacing.

I also don't know if my steering will clear.

Here are some pictures;

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

id grind the caliper.

as for the steering, just bolt on the tie rod and move the knuckles lock to lock.

 

[Kingkong0192]

Grinding it now.

Question;

How much can i safely grind (without screwing up the caliper) and how much of a gap between the wheel and caliper do i want? 1/8", 1/16", etc?

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I have the same combo and about 3/16" clearance from wheel to caliper

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Grind as little as possible, but enough to get some clearance.