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Custom yoke style SYE for the 242 or 231 done.

Actually, the one potential problem I can see is the length of the splines in that yoke. They're barely over an inch long, and I don't know if that's enough.
 
I've read (naxja thread) these are the vehicles to get a junk yard yolk from, for your cheap hack n tap;
1980-1982 Ford Thunderbird
1982-1983 Lincoln Continental
1988-1992 Lincoln
1980-1982 Mercury Cougar XR-7
1991-1993 Oldsmobile Bravada (should be a little more common than the others)
 
You guys keep overlooking the most important part,a "slip" yoke has a "loose" fit because its designed to "slip".A bolt on yoke is almost a "press" fit.(see post #7 and the other 9 million "threads" on the subject)!
 
Timber said:
Yes, it is intended as a pinion yoke, but the spline diameter and count are exactly the same as the Corvette yoke Gojeep used. Also, I figured I could carefully remove the threads inside where the straps go and bolt it directly to the CV centering yoke. Maybe it really won't work, but it sure looks like it will.
Click to expand...
Another thing you have not thought about is that saddle type yokes do not have the flat portion on the back side where you need to have the nuts sit after the treads have been drilled out. You would need the tool or have the recesses machined in before it could be used. Same thing you come across with any saddle to U bolt conversion on a pinion yoke.
 
Thanks, Marcus. Otherwise, do you think it will work? If so, I think I'll try it soon. It'll be cheaper and easier for me to start with that yoke and have the recesses machined than go with the yoke you did.
 
I just held a Front CV shaft up to a output yolk of a Dana 300 with a strap style yolk, and same size u-joint. I don't know how different this would be from the yolk you are thinking of, but it would not work.

The bolt holes don't line up, the yolk had a wider bolt pattern.

Not to mention, as RCP Phx was pointing out, slip yolks are made to slip and yolks are a tighter fit. Chances are the spline cut is different (cut, not count), but you'd have to research that one . It may fit, and feel solid, but there may only be a small surface area of the splines actually making contact.
 
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Here are a couple pics

DSCF1332.jpg


DSCF1331.jpg
 
TRAILREADYXJ said:
I just held a Front CV shaft up to a output yolk of a Dana 300 with a strap style yolk, and same size u-joint. I don't know how different this would be from the yolk you are thinking of, but it would not work.

The bolt holes don't line up, the yolk had a wider bolt pattern.

Not to mention, as RCP Phx was pointing out, slip yolks are made to slip and yolks are a tighter fit. Chances are the spline cut is different (cut, not count), but you'd have to research that one . It may fit, and feel solid, but there may only be a small surface area of the splines actually making contact.
Click to expand...
I know you guys are only trying to help, and I truly appreciate it. I think I'll just buy the yoke and see if it'll work. If it won't, I'll just return it.
 
I think the pic says it all,WRONG bolt pattern!
 
Gojeep very interesting and detailed write up, I have a couple questions and confused on some parts of the build but... would you happen to have the demensions that one would need to cut the yoke and tcase splines if they are running a D35 rear end?

Also, what would happen if I switched to a different rear end later on and my spline and yoke were cut to fit the D35? Would I have to cut down the splines and yoke even more?

Your write ups make me want to do so much stuff to my XJ but I'm hella scared LOL
 
J-Roc said:
Gojeep very interesting and detailed write up, I have a couple questions and confused on some parts of the build but... would you happen to have the demensions that one would need to cut the yoke and tcase splines if they are running a D35 rear end?

Also, what would happen if I switched to a different rear end later on and my spline and yoke were cut to fit the D35? Would I have to cut down the splines and yoke even more?

Your write ups make me want to do so much stuff to my XJ but I'm hella scared LOL
Click to expand...
I removed 1-15/16" from the output shaft. A 2" cut will work as the difference accounts for the kerf of the cutting disc and isn't as precise as it sounds.

I removed 1-11/16" from the yoke but you'll want to be certain of this one simply because of possible design intolerances or differences in manufacturer's specifications.

If you were to change axles I would be inclined to try a different driveshaft, like an Explorer which is shorter. You can cut the yoke down further but I think you give up strength in the process through a lessening of spline engagement.
 
Sorry John, should have just PM'd ya from the beginning. Thanks for clarifying my question, funny how leaving a extra 3/4" of spline can make such drastic differences...

*Edit when you did your 2" cut was that measured from the beginning of the output shaft or the end? Marcus' measurement is (1.25") from the beginning of the shaft spline?

Eventually I am planning to do this mod once I am lifted, however I think I want to do it on a spare 242. How much lift are you running? Will the length of the splines and yoke being cut be effected based on how much lift you are running? Personally I am planning for 3.5" (RE) if it makes a difference...
 
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J-Roc said:
When you did your 2" cut was that measured from the beginning of the output shaft or the end? Marcus' measurement is (1.25") from the beginning of the shaft spline?
Click to expand...
Mine is the measurement of the remaining pieces. I have them on my shelf above my bench. The measurements are from the end of the pieces to the cut area.

J-Roc said:
Eventually I am planning to do this mod once I am lifted, however I think I want to do it on a spare 242. How much lift are you running? Will the length of the splines and yoke being cut be effected based on how much lift you are running? Personally I am planning for 3.5" (RE) if it makes a difference...
Click to expand...
I'm at 6.5" inches and you'll want to factor in repointing the pinion. The overall length should be done once you have a reasonable certainty of the pinion position. Moving the pinion should essentuially shorten the distance meaning you should cut more off to fit the same shaft.

Planning on a 3.5" RE lift is saying you'll end up at 4.5". :D

There is enough slip joint in the XJ front shaft that you should be fine at both lift heights since compression of the springs shortens the shaft anyway. Going higher later will extend the shaft to a degree that should be manageable.
 
Normally the output shaft is always cut to the same length that I mention regardless of what rear end you have. The spline length left is the shortest you can do this and still have the strength left in the spline engagement. The longer the driveshaft, or distance between the uni's, the better for the angles involved.
 
centralmax said:
I've read (naxja thread) these are the vehicles to get a junk yard yolk from, for your cheap hack n tap;
1980-1982 Ford Thunderbird
1982-1983 Lincoln Continental
1988-1992 Lincoln
1980-1982 Mercury Cougar XR-7
1991-1993 Oldsmobile Bravada (should be a little more common than the others)
Click to expand...

Will the yolk from any of these work? I am heading to the junkyard this weekend and I will keep my eye out for any of these.

And for the 1988-1992 Lincoln which model? Or is it any Lincoln from those years? Is it just the rear output off of the transmission that you need? Can you remove that without taking the tranny apart?
 
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bubba said:
Will the yolk from any of these work? I am heading to the junkyard this weekend and I will keep my eye out for any of these.

And for the 1988-1992 Lincoln which model? Or is it any Lincoln from those years? Is it just the rear output off of the transmission that you need? Can you remove that without taking the tranny apart?
Click to expand...

The yoke in question is supposedly found on those cars. I don't know what model Lincoln. The yoke is between the transmission and the drive shaft. To remove it, you'll just have to remove the drive shaft (or at least the rear axle end) and pull the yoke straight out.

Good luck and post up the results! I swear I looked under every domestic car at the pick-n-pull around here and none had the right yoke.

Billy
 
Just make sure they have U bolts and not saddles.
Some Corvettes have the right yoke.
 
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