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CSF 3 Row Radiator the best way to go?
- Thread starter BlueCuda
- Start date
DrMoab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Utah Backwater
hold on there grasshoppa! It only shipped two days ago (I hope)
DrMoab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Utah Backwater
Just got a reply that they did indeed ship it and they gave me a tracking number. I guess they bought a bunch of these from champion and they have them in stock.
flazz85
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Jersey
To be honest I think CSF rads suck, Ive gone through to of them in the past 3 1/2 years. Both had the same problem they developed a leak near the petcock and would vomit rad fluid everywhere. I'm nursing the second one right now till I have funds to get something better.
- Location
- San Diego
ron davis also makes an XJ radiator...hmmm
DrMoab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Utah Backwater
Priced one?
- Location
- San Diego
nope. went to the ron davis website and the price is not listed. but i assume its somewhere around the price of a griffin
- Location
- In the islands
That Ron Davis radiator look nice. :yelclap: I did not see in the picture the mounting bolts on the top.
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/95-jeep-cherokee-radiator.jpg
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/95-jeep-cherokee-radiator.jpg
cherokeefan_1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North idaho
I am interested in one of these champion rads to replace my old 3 core brass/copper and was wondering what the tube sizes are? I know most all aluminum rads for muscle cars have 1" or 1.25" tubes but that cannot be on the champion 3 row as the core is only 2" thick.
Ben824
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodstock, GA
Hey so Champion finally called me bak today and said they have no idea when they will have anymore 3 row radiators in but they do have some all aluminum 2 row radiators that are just like the 3 row units except they are 2 rows. Anybody think there will be a huge difference in cooling capabilities between the two? I live in south georgia and we see temps of 100+ regularly. The guy on the phone said the 2 row could still cool a 400 horsepower motor which we all know that the stock 4.0L will never see that number much less the 650 rating of the 3 row but I do currently run the CSF 3 row which has done fine until last year when the temps started creeping up and now I consistently run at 220-230 even after replacing the t-stat and a full coolant flush and royal purple coolant additive.
The 2 row unit is $144 compared to the 3 row which is $199. I am thinking I should just get the 2 row since it is still all aluminum, a little cheaper, and I am in urgent need of a radiator. What do ya'll think?
The 2 row unit is $144 compared to the 3 row which is $199. I am thinking I should just get the 2 row since it is still all aluminum, a little cheaper, and I am in urgent need of a radiator. What do ya'll think?
rockchucker
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
I did a full upgrade to the cooling system as I read a lot of people had issues with this. First I picked up a 3 row all metal from outlawradiator.com and then I picked up a flowkooler water pump from Summit Racing. I also picked up a new thermostat housing from napa. Then all new hoses and a 180 degree thermostat. I took the thermostat housing and opened the inside up with a die grinder to make a custom high flow. I then flushed the cooling system that was going to be replace. Then started the tear down. I got all tore down and then read about the exhaust. So I picked up a new header that I wrapped with copper high heat resistant wrap from Summit Racing. I then installed all the parts and put a new gator back belt in and fired it up. Man so worth the money I now run about 180-185 and around 205-210 slow crawling and all with just the mechanical fan running. If I kick the electric fan on I run back down to about 200 crawling along. The exhaust wrap got rid of a ton of heat under the intake and made a huge change in the fuel economy. I went from 15-17 mpg to now about 17-24 mpg. I did all of this for not to much cash.:yelclap:
- Location
- Columbus, In
Operating temp on an XJ is 210 degrees, put a 195 thermostat in it. I don't believe for a minute that upgrading your cooling system gave you 7 mpg.
rockchucker
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado
All I know is that is what happened for me, and no joke I swear. I was bummed when I first ran it and what I got for MPG and then did this and it changed for me. I had to make sure so I always keep track of mpg. Last fill up I got 20 and that was all in town with a little highway. I also don't have a muffler just the cat and a straight pipe. I have not done a lift or tires yet witch I know will also bring me back down. I will post the pics of my my cooling project on here once I get a chance.
DrMoab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Utah Backwater
If you got a 7mpg increase than you must have had issues and fixed them...which is possible. Like Flexed said, put a warmer thermostat in it. Anything below 195 or so and your computer is not running in a closed loop. This means your computer is telling the engine to run rich and you are burning more fuel than you should.
I got my champion installed along with two factory 97+ electric fans. So far, so good. The only time I've had to turn the second electric fan on is pulling hard while going slow with the ac on full blast. On the hwy I can leave it off.
I got my champion installed along with two factory 97+ electric fans. So far, so good. The only time I've had to turn the second electric fan on is pulling hard while going slow with the ac on full blast. On the hwy I can leave it off.
- Location
- Columbus, In
How did you wire the second fan? I want to get rid of the mech. fan on mine. You happen to have a link to the thread for wiring an e-fan to a switch. I can't seem to find it.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
2 or 3 row?
here ya go...
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1025399&highlight=fan+ride+switch
"Anything below 195 or so and your computer is not running in a closed loop. This means your computer is telling the engine to run rich and you are burning more fuel than you should."
that's not a true statement.
the ecm will go in closed loop, reading the o2 sensors for fuel mixture, looking at the engine temp, as well as intake air temp, throttle postion...ect to make the needed adjustments, before 195* is reached.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1025399&highlight=fan+ride+switch
"Anything below 195 or so and your computer is not running in a closed loop. This means your computer is telling the engine to run rich and you are burning more fuel than you should."
that's not a true statement.
the ecm will go in closed loop, reading the o2 sensors for fuel mixture, looking at the engine temp, as well as intake air temp, throttle postion...ect to make the needed adjustments, before 195* is reached.
- Location
- Columbus, In
Ah yes, Fyrfytr always has good threads. Thanks dude! :cheers:
DrMoab
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Utah Backwater
Right now it's just wired to a switch (through a relay of course)
I wanted to make sure the whole thing would work before I spent the money on a high dollar fan controller. Now I know it will stay cool I'll probably go with either the SPAL setup or a similar one from flex-a-lite.
It's a 3 row btw.
Milford Cubicle II
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Out there.
The 2 row will be fine. Some would argue that it would even cool better than a 3 row. Either way, you'll be fine.
This just isn't true. The PCM leaves open loop loooong before 195. You'll be fine running a 160-195 t-stat. The biggest problem with a cooler thermostat is that your heater won't be as hot.
