Converting a Dana 35 from Non-C-Clip to C-Clip?

[sleeperjeeper]

I have been trying to find out if it is possible to switch out the axle shafts, etc, in a dana 35 non c-clip axle to the C-Clip version. It seems a lot of stuff is available for the c-clip version, but not the non-clip version. Does anyone know if this is possible and what it would entail?

Thanks in advance

 

[5-90]

I have been trying to find out if it is possible to switch out the axle shafts, etc, in a dana 35 non c-clip axle to the C-Clip version. It seems a lot of stuff is available for the c-clip version, but not the non-clip version. Does anyone know if this is possible and what it would entail?

Thanks in advance

Hm. Have you tried looking for a "C-clip Eliminator Kit" for the D35 with C's? I know they're available for other axles (like the Ford 8.8") so it's worth a shot.

And, are you sure that your axle is a C-clip version? Just because it says "35C" in the housing isn't a reliable indicator - that actually means "Custom" (per Dana,) and means that the bare housing was shipped, vice a compleat axle assembly. It could go either way.

You can check (if you're not sure) in one of two ways:
1) Remove the cover, and check the side gears. If you see a counterbore with what looks like a large, thick washer shaped like the letter "C" - they're C-clips. "Retainer plate" axles (true semi-floating) have side gears with the inner surfaces flat, instead of counterbored.

2) Non-C-clip axles are held in using steel retainer plates acting against pressed-on bearings. Remove a brake drum, and check behind the hub flange. You may need a small wire brush - but if you can see the outline of a retainer plate around the nuts/bolts holding the backing plate on (on the outboard side of the backing plate,) you do not have C-clips.

If you have a C-clip axle, you probably are not going to be readily able to swap in retainer plate parts to make it work - but I'm not sure. Bearings and seals are different, but I don't have dimensions to hand (I see no reason for axle housing flange dimensions to be different, but the bearing pocket may be.) Thus - the C-clip eliminator kits. You can find out what they entail by Googling them.

 

[kj139]

Personally, if I was going to stick with a 35, I would stick with the non c-clip. If it breaks (which a 35 will do), you can still limp home. If you are certain you want to do this, I am sure somebody on here will give you a Dana-35. In fact, if I can probably come up with one myself if you can come get it.

The fact of the matter is a D-35 is poor performer at best. There are a ton of other options out there that won't cost you much money. I personally put a Ford 8.8 under mine and paid $150 for it (disk brakes and all). An 8.25 is another fine choice. I just regeared and installed lockers two weeks ago for friends that refused to get rid of their 35's stating, "I want to see how far I can push it and then I'll replace it." This is crazy logic, as they both put lockers and new gears in them. Why go to that extent and then just throw it away. If you do stick with it, you can always upgrade to the Super 35 kit, weld on a truss and weld the tubes; but, by the time you go to that expense, why not just change to a quality axle with a large ring gear for less money?

The choice is yours...Good Luck!

 

[wannajeep]

I am pretty sure 89 is the last year of the non c-clip 35. My 89 had the non, everyone I knew with the later models had clips.

 

[5-90]

Gah - I just realised I read it backwards.

Convert to C-clip? Why? By the time you're done, you have probably found a D44 or an 8.25 (both better axles) and fixed it up - including a C-clip eliminator on the 8.25.

C-clips are a bad idea in off-road vehicles. On-road, it's not that much of a problem - but the forces are different once you leave the pavement behind. Drop a C-clip, and you're boned. Snap a shaft, and you've got a wheel leaving.

 

[cal]

I have been trying to find out if it is possible to switch out the axle shafts, etc, in a dana 35 non c-clip axle to the C-Clip version. It seems a lot of stuff is available for the c-clip version, but not the non-clip version. Does anyone know if this is possible and what it would entail?

Thanks in advance

*blink*
*blink*

...

*blink*

...


You actually want to make a lousy dana35 WORSE?

...

*blink*

 

[wishihad1]

you could probably do this by getting the parts out of a c-clip axle...but why?

if i had to have a d35 i would get a non c-clip one. that way if i break a shaft i can still drive home

 

[blondejoncherokee]

the time and money you would spend on making a dana 35 a c clip axle(going backwards?) you could have just bought a 8.25 for 100$, you could have bought a xj 44 for around 300$ or way less if you find one at a yard, or just find anyone that has a clip 35 that would probably give it to you for free or maybe a 12 pack. putting any money at all into the 35 is probably a bad idea. jeep made the dana 35 originally as the worlds biggest paper weight before they realized they could pass it as a rear axle in jeeps ....

 

[kj139]

I about pissed myself laughing when I saw Cal's "blinks." That's great!

 

[cal]

you could probably do this by getting the parts out of a c-clip axle...but why?

if i had to have a d35 i would get a non c-clip one. that way if i break a shaft i can still drive home

You actually couldnt.

You would need a c-clip d35 carrier and spiders, c-clip shafts, and then you would have to cut the ends off of your non c-clip housing, get ends cut from a c-clip housing, weld them to your housing, make sure the width is right *and* get it all strait.

Thats a lot of work to go through, to make your d35 weaker.

 

[xxmidianxx]

^^^^ Yeah what they said ^^^^

 

[WB9YZU]

If I read that right, he wants to put non-C-Clip axles in his C-Clip axle.

No go kimosabe, there is nothing to retain the axle.

The early axles had larger bearing holders which had 1 pc bearings which were attached to the axle with a colar and retained by the backing plate.
The C-Clip axles have C-Clips at the differential.

If I read it wrong, and he wants to actually put C-Clip axles into an older housing...
I doubt that would work. One would have to look it over real good, but I suspect that when they changed bearing types, they changed the bearing surface design. Besides, you have that C-Clip thing to cut off The newer bearings won't work in the older housings and you would have to use the old style ones.

I don't see how you believe more parts or options are available for a C-Clip instead of a Non-C. The carrier, gears and all axle bearings (except for the tube bearings) are all available.

5-90 - I have looked, I could not find a C-clip eliminator for either the D35, or the Corporate 8.25.

Ron

 

[sleeperjeeper]

The reason I asked is the only locker available for my particular axle (d35 non-clip Trac-loc) is a detriot locker for like 600 bucks. If I had a c-clip axle I could not only get a lock rite for 220, but for another couple hundred I could have the upgraded axle kit. I am only running 32's, which I have heard that a d35 can support up to a 33" tire. I only have a couple month to figure out how to get locked for my rubi trip this june.

I have also heard that I could put a lock-rite in the front because I can still put it in 2wd for the road, But I have also heard that locking the front is asking for the "trail of gears" experience on the rubi. I got into rubicon springs and back from the tahoma side last fall on aired down 32's and no locker, but I want to be locked for sections such as big sluice. Any thoughts? Is there a good axle swap that I could do before putting the locker on that would still take the 5 bolt pattern, or am I looking at replacing the axles shafts anyway if I do that?

 

[outlander]

**blink**

**blink**

nevermind...

**blink**

**blink**

:roflmao:

 

[5-90]

If I read that right, he wants to put non-C-Clip axles in his C-Clip axle.

No go kimosabe, there is nothing to retain the axle.

The early axles had larger bearing holders which had 1 pc bearings which were attached to the axle with a colar and retained by the backing plate.
The C-Clip axles have C-Clips at the differential.

If I read it wrong, and he wants to actually put C-Clip axles into an older housing...
I doubt that would work. One would have to look it over real good, but I suspect that when they changed bearing types, they changed the bearing surface design. Besides, you have that C-Clip thing to cut off The newer bearings won't work in the older housings and you would have to use the old style ones.

I don't see how you believe more parts or options are available for a C-Clip instead of a Non-C. The carrier, gears and all axle bearings (except for the tube bearings) are all available.

5-90 - I have looked, I could not find a C-clip eliminator for either the D35, or the Corporate 8.25.

Ron

I had a hunch. Thanks for that clarification, tho.

 

[kj139]

Copper204 and I just put Tru-Tracs in a non c-clip 35 with no problems at all. The thing wheels incredible now, plus they are super cheap.

 

[WB9YZU]

The reason I asked is the only locker available for my particular axle (d35 non-clip Trac-loc) is a detriot locker for like 600 bucks. If I had a c-clip axle I could not only get a lock rite for 220, but for another couple hundred I could have the upgraded axle kit. I am only running 32's, which I have heard that a d35 can support up to a 33" tire. I only have a couple month to figure out how to get locked for my rubi trip this june.

Pretty sure all D35 Lockrights/Aussie/ Eaton E-Z lockers are all the same price for all years. Per some darn Jeep rag I read a ways back D35, locked, are good for 31's. I'm running 33s with my YJ, locked, but then I baby it. 32's should be fine.

I have also heard that I could put a lock-rite in the front because I can still put it in 2wd for the road, But I have also heard that locking the front is asking for the "trail of gears" experience on the rubi. I got into rubicon springs and back from the tahoma side last fall on aired down 32's and no locker, but I want to be locked for sections such as big sluice. Any thoughts? Is there a good axle swap that I could do before putting the locker on that would still take the 5 bolt pattern, or am I looking at replacing the axles shafts anyway if I do that?

I run a front aussie locker with 31's on the XJ, I recomend a CM inner and outer axle on the drivers side. Other than that your good to go with a D30 and 32's.

IMO, A nice combo is a limited slip in the rear and a locker up front.

 

[boomhauer]

Convert to C-clip? Why? By the time you're done, you have probably found a D44 or an 8.25 (both better axles) and fixed it up - including a C-clip eliminator on the 8.25.

5-90, or whomever else has the answer to this and not meaning to interupt so i will start a new thread so this question/answer will be easier to find on "How 2 eliminate the 8.25 c-clips?". I've googled with no avail.

 

[cal]

5-90, or whomever else has the answer to this and not meaning to interupt so i will start a new thread so this question/answer will be easier to find on "How 2 eliminate the 8.25 c-clips?". I've googled with no avail.

You don't. Superior started a c-clip elim kit, but never finished it.

 

[boomhauer]

You don't. Superior started a c-clip elim kit, but never finished it.

Ah figures. Thx