collection of jeep stuff(build/blog)

i'm not clear on what gear ratio that is for, but if it works for your 4.88's its a cheap get you going fix
 
found some writeups, it looks like they are 3.73-4.88.

you have to cut a few 16ths off one side axle shaft, but thats not a big deal, especially if you sell the dana 30 whole and locked later.
 
Listen to BC and Cal, the D30 will survive a lot if you build it right. A D44 isnt builtproof, and they get expensive QUICK if you build them to be any stronger than a D30. Sure you can run stock shafts, steering and brakes, but whats the point?

A full case carrier, alloy shafts, and a quality gearset will keep you happy in the D30. You can swap stock shafts in 30 minutes, spares are a plenty, and its already in the Jeep. A front 44 can be bolt in, but everything you gain over a 30 becomes expensive. You gain R&P strength (marginal), potential high steer, lockout hubs (you will most likely swap them for drive slugs), and bigger brakes. The cheapest part of the 44 is the housing, and thats all you really end up using!


Keep the 4:1, its worth it!
 
A D44 front is only marginally stronger from strickly an axle shaft point of view.

Are you running chromoly shafts? How much money do you have sunk into your D30 right now? Did you buy cheap gears? Who set up the gears for you?

A 30 spline ARB and alloy shafts/CTMs for your D30 may be cheaper in the long run when deciding to build up a D44. Just depends on what your plans are for the rig and how much you have sunk into your D30 at this point.

I was blowing up my D30 shafts until I learned how to drive better. Have to be conscious of how bound up the front wheels are and go easy with the throttle. I don't plan on going bigger than 35's at all so it was an easy decision to build my D30.

I've got quite a bit tied up into my wittle turdy. WJ knuckles, OTK steering and track bar, truss, lca skids, cover, chromos.
Just this year broke ring gear, twisted long side inner cromo, broke alloy usa ujoint, broke center shaft in carrier, and now broke short side shaft and blew up the carrier.

I think I am for now.. going to stick with it. Hopefully just get a full case and put the chromos back in once warranty comes back.

It broke on something it definitely shouldnt have so something was up with it beforehand... I mean it was the last bit of mini rubi at HH. It was very very torn up from the Top Truck so was way more difficult.. I shouldn't have been in there but I made it.

Here is what it looked like when I popped the cover.. And the damage.


 
damn dude.

you are whooping on that dana 30.


if you fix your rear locker situation your front wont be doing all the work . Im sure that has to help something . Get a full case rear locker next.
 
option a: buy my built set of 44's & put rcv's in thee front.
option b: buy my big red p.o.s. & tackle everything but insane buggy trails.
 
Opdtion D: Learn to drive within the limitations of your equipment. Bound up tires and a heavy right foot is a bad thing with a dana 30.

You need a D60 not a D44.


For what it is worth I broke a rear axle and it screwed up my full detroit in a similar but less dramatic fashion. What kind of alloy shafts are those?
 
In all honesty I feel this was a trickle effect from the very first rubicon trip.. If you were there, it was no place where a shaft should've broke. Much less taken the bearing and carrier with it in that fashion:( maybe the carrier bearing wasn't set up properly or the cap had backed off before the shaft decide to explode... idk.. I'm gonna take a close look at the whole thing and make sure I don't have some bent tubes or something

That's a stock short side shaft. The spare driver side chromo had a ujoint on it's way out so I swapped it out in reno before hitting tonka. The chromo I twisted was the long side inner and it was Alloy USA from rob before they sold out to Omix-ada.

I have a new inner chromo coming and hopefully still be able to make SF.. But I am so broke it aint funny hah.. And I have to move the end of this month YAY!

I was pretty damn bummed.. and thought I had given up for the season with this jeep.. but I gave her some love today. we kissed and made up.
 
In all honesty I feel this was a trickle effect from the very first rubicon trip.. If you were there, it was no place where a shaft should've broke. Much less taken the bearing and carrier with it in that fashion:( maybe the carrier bearing wasn't set up properly or the cap had backed off before the shaft decide to explode... idk.. I'm gonna take a close look at the whole thing and make sure I don't have some bent tubes or something

That's a stock short side shaft. The spare driver side chromo had a ujoint on it's way out so I swapped it out in reno before hitting tonka. The chromo I twisted was the long side inner and it was Alloy USA from rob before they sold out to Omix-ada.

I have a new inner chromo coming and hopefully still be able to make SF.. But I am so broke it aint funny hah.. And I have to move the end of this month YAY!

I was pretty damn bummed.. and thought I had given up for the season with this jeep.. but I gave her some love today. we kissed and made up.


If that was a stock shaft then it was just inevitable that it was going to break.

Shaft broke and took out the carrier with it, collateral damage. Like you said it was probably already half broken to begin with. Been through this a few times myself, no big deal really.

Get another stock carrier and bearings, find another axle shaft. Go wheeling. SF shouldn't be too taxing on stock shafts if you take it easy. Bring a few spares too.
 
Key is taking it easy
 
Its really easy to say "I never want this to happen again" then spend a ton of cash.

In reality, 4 wheel parts will sell you a stock carrier 373+ for like $50, and you can go wheeling again as is.

I could have bought a lot of $50 carriers before I finished my "I never want this to happen again" front axle (twice, after doing the 44 first) and I still managed to break it twice on 35" DOT MT/r's being an idiot.
 
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