Building my own control arms

[crazymoose1990]

Not to mention pitman arm clearance on the axle. I had 3/4 offset tie rods, upon articulation my tie rod would hit my pitman arm. So off came the offset tie rod ends.

 

[RedJeep2.0]

i did that once my track bar was running in to my axle..:wow:

 

[BPB]

I wouldn't increase the length of control arms to push your axle forward but I would use .250 wall for the lowers. If you want to push your axle forward use these.

In conjunction with x over steering

 

[rockclimber]

Im going to make my control arms a little bit longer to get a better approach angle. I ALREADY HAVE THE BALISTIC FAB JOINTS!!!!!! If ya wanna bash them bash away and i cant ask a question about what thickness would be better to go with? man this place sure does ****ing suck

if you are going to do that, you are going to do a lot of work.

relocate the coil buckets,
move the panhard,
steering box possibly
etc.

go with .188 heat threat chromo for the lowers, stronger and lighter than .250 wall.

don't weld with the joint in the tube, spray anti-spatter on the threads.

 

[Clean Racing]

Im going to make my control arms a little bit longer to get a better approach angle. I ALREADY HAVE THE BALISTIC FAB JOINTS!!!!!! If ya wanna bash them bash away and i cant ask a question about what thickness would be better to go with? man this place sure does ****ing suck

I am not bashing ballistic to bash them. I built my HP44 back in 2009 with all their stuff.. Brackets, forged joints, ect. The part I hate about the ballistic Joints is that every 5 or 6 months I have to rebuild the joints. I have been slowly switching out their joints for Ruffstuff rod ends. I daily drive my XJ, so I overbuilt it to handle stuff. So for your wall thickness on your links. 250" lowers, and .180 uppers should be good. Just trying to help WITH EXPERIENCE!!!