iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
Build thread White '99
- Thread starter Jeepedo129
- Start date
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Yeah I couldn't remember which link I needed to copy. A mod can delete this and my test post.
SuperB60ce
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upstate South Carolina
Subscribing for ideas. I noticed you were studying for your A&P, who did you end up working for....retired A&P here BTW
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Thanks for the Sub. :thumbup:
I ended up working for Delta out in BDL (Hartford CT). I work the night shift out here workin mostly the MD-88 and every once in awhile I work A320/19s. Love the job though. Where did you retire from?
My thread has been a little dead but when I move closer to Utah I've got some plans I really want to tackle.
I ended up working for Delta out in BDL (Hartford CT). I work the night shift out here workin mostly the MD-88 and every once in awhile I work A320/19s. Love the job though. Where did you retire from?
My thread has been a little dead but when I move closer to Utah I've got some plans I really want to tackle.
SuperB60ce
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upstate South Carolina
Got my A&P while still in the Army. 25yrs worked mostly rotary (Hueys, Blackhawks, & Chinooks) did 4yrs on VIP fixed wing (Gulfstream G-III, IV, V, & 550) and started career in USAF on F-4s. Retired last year and wanted nothing to do with aircraft anymore so I opened a small auto repair shop / dealership.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
That is awesome! Thank you for your service. It's always interesting to meet other A&Ps. Almost every one has a different story as to how and why they got into aviation. I looked over your build and you have a nice clean jeep. Props to you man!
SuperB60ce
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upstate South Carolina
Thankyou
- Location
- Henderson, NV
So, Updates? not really for the jeep, but I've Moved! and bought a house! In Vegas! crazy right?
The last couple years i haven't really been able to take the jeep out as much as i wanted to, but i did get a couple trips in. Went down to Sand Hollow in southern Utah and ran Milt's Mile which is a great trail for any rig.
so after moving and settling into our new house, I needed to tear into the jeep. 2 years of neglect have left me quite the list of things that need my attention. I had started noticing a popping noise in the front end so I figured maybe it was the U joints, and I knew my ball joints needed to be replaced. Figured this was a good opportunity to break in the new garage.
Plenty of room to work in there even with the wife's liberty in there. Couldn't be happier
I replaced the ball joints and u joints with Spicer all around.
The last couple years i haven't really been able to take the jeep out as much as i wanted to, but i did get a couple trips in. Went down to Sand Hollow in southern Utah and ran Milt's Mile which is a great trail for any rig.
so after moving and settling into our new house, I needed to tear into the jeep. 2 years of neglect have left me quite the list of things that need my attention. I had started noticing a popping noise in the front end so I figured maybe it was the U joints, and I knew my ball joints needed to be replaced. Figured this was a good opportunity to break in the new garage.
Plenty of room to work in there even with the wife's liberty in there. Couldn't be happier
I replaced the ball joints and u joints with Spicer all around.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
unfortunately the popping wasn't coming from the u joints or the ball joints. so I took the front drive shaft out in an attempt to isolate the noise. That caused the noise to turn from a popping to a grinding. So I tore into the Transfer Case.
Looks like the shift synchronizer gear isn't all the way in the 2wd position causing it to grind on the drive sprocket and pop in and out of 4x4. Can't quite figure out what could cause this. the shift fork pads on the range fork and the drive mode fork are good. The shift linkage looks good as well, and I don't have a T case drop so it's not a geometry issue. Something must be loose inside or its something im not seeing.
The Shift sync gear is chewed up a tiny bit, not a huge deal.
And the drive socket is grinding on the range fork as well.
So , that's how she sits right now. I'm kinda scratching my head with this, might do a rebuild kit on the T case. Could a loose chain cause something like this?
Anyway, more to come.
:us:
Looks like the shift synchronizer gear isn't all the way in the 2wd position causing it to grind on the drive sprocket and pop in and out of 4x4. Can't quite figure out what could cause this. the shift fork pads on the range fork and the drive mode fork are good. The shift linkage looks good as well, and I don't have a T case drop so it's not a geometry issue. Something must be loose inside or its something im not seeing.
The Shift sync gear is chewed up a tiny bit, not a huge deal.
And the drive socket is grinding on the range fork as well.
So , that's how she sits right now. I'm kinda scratching my head with this, might do a rebuild kit on the T case. Could a loose chain cause something like this?
Anyway, more to come.
:us:
RONCXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shelby, NC
Glad you are back with the Jeep! Just read through this entire thread and am inspired. I have a 99 that I am beginning to get up to par with what I want. There are always a ton of little things to do on these vehicles. Subscribed for sure, and good luck with the transfer case. I wish I had the knowledge to help....
Kevin
Kevin
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Thanks Kevin, glad you liked my stuff.
99 is a great year to build on. There's never a shortage of junk to do on these rigs.
Good luck!
99 is a great year to build on. There's never a shortage of junk to do on these rigs.
Good luck!
- Location
- Henderson, NV
updates!
well, the T case went back together after I bought a new chain, seals, outer bearings and shift fork pads. everything seems to be working great again.
I ran The Jeep Jamboree in St George, UT back in January and had a blast. Jeep ran great and even though there was a healthy dose of rain we still enjoyed ourselves.
Now on to the real update.
I was driving the Jeep out to L.A. to meet up with some friends for an event and about 2 hours into my 5 hour drive, my engine began ticking quite loudly on acceleration. Stopped to get gas and listened to the motor. Seemed like lifter noise. loose lifter? Anyway, without any tools or ability to pull the valve cover I decided to press on. Well, it wasn't long and the noise became violent and the engine was now vibrating quite badly. I limped to the next exit and pulled into the nearest gas station. Oil puddle on the ground is never a good sign.
Anyway, after a pain in the ass journey to get the jeep back home, i was finally able to tear into the motor.
When I pulled the head, I found the number 6 jug full of coolant, as well as 4 and 5. luckily the head gasket was the fuse and blew out instead of the rods. AS for the noise, It definitely wasn't valve noise. #4 piston lost its skirt and rattled around in the jug. Made horrible noises. But to my surprise very little damage was done to the jug itself. A good hone and I could have put this thing back together.
Buuuuuuuuut, Who does that?!
Stroker time!
well, the T case went back together after I bought a new chain, seals, outer bearings and shift fork pads. everything seems to be working great again.
I ran The Jeep Jamboree in St George, UT back in January and had a blast. Jeep ran great and even though there was a healthy dose of rain we still enjoyed ourselves.
Now on to the real update.
I was driving the Jeep out to L.A. to meet up with some friends for an event and about 2 hours into my 5 hour drive, my engine began ticking quite loudly on acceleration. Stopped to get gas and listened to the motor. Seemed like lifter noise. loose lifter? Anyway, without any tools or ability to pull the valve cover I decided to press on. Well, it wasn't long and the noise became violent and the engine was now vibrating quite badly. I limped to the next exit and pulled into the nearest gas station. Oil puddle on the ground is never a good sign.
Anyway, after a pain in the ass journey to get the jeep back home, i was finally able to tear into the motor.
When I pulled the head, I found the number 6 jug full of coolant, as well as 4 and 5. luckily the head gasket was the fuse and blew out instead of the rods. AS for the noise, It definitely wasn't valve noise. #4 piston lost its skirt
and rattled around in the jug. Made horrible noises. But to my surprise very little damage was done to the jug itself. A good hone and I could have put this thing back together.
Buuuuuuuuut, Who does that?!
Stroker time!
Last edited:
- Location
- Henderson, NV
So far My stroker build sheet is maybe 70ish% complete.
contacted a local machine shop here in vegas, Nevada Crank, and talked with them about a stroker. This is what we came up with:
He would put together a "kit" for me that I could modify to my liking,
Parts:
258 crank 89-90
KB421 pistons w/ rings
refurb my 4.0 rods
ARP rod bolts
clevite bearings
oil pump
timing set
mopar .043 head gasket
full gasket set
mopar valve springs
Cam and lifter set (undecided on)
Machine Work
dip and mag head
install new springs
minor valve job
dip and mag block
bore and hone .030
deck .020 off
press in cam bearings
brass freeze plugs
After all that, I need to figure out injectors, most likely going to pick up some bosch 0280155849 24lb 4 hole injectors. And I need to decide on a cam. Right at this moment I'm looking into picking up one from either Clegg, or Russ Pottenger off of Jeepstrokers.com. Mostly just looking at the cost right now.
I also have a new exhaust manifold on the way and friend of mine in SLC has access to a lathe, and is going to open up my TB to 62mm.
I'm sure I'm missing something but this is where I'm at so far. With all of this im looking at around a 9.0:1 CR with about a .054 quench. According to Cleggs they don't have any problems running 87 on this setup in either SLC or vegas, so im hopeful this will give me little to no headache down the road.
More to come
:us:
contacted a local machine shop here in vegas, Nevada Crank, and talked with them about a stroker. This is what we came up with:
He would put together a "kit" for me that I could modify to my liking,
Parts:
258 crank 89-90
KB421 pistons w/ rings
refurb my 4.0 rods
ARP rod bolts
clevite bearings
oil pump
timing set
mopar .043 head gasket
full gasket set
mopar valve springs
Cam and lifter set (undecided on)
Machine Work
dip and mag head
install new springs
minor valve job
dip and mag block
bore and hone .030
deck .020 off
press in cam bearings
brass freeze plugs
After all that, I need to figure out injectors, most likely going to pick up some bosch 0280155849 24lb 4 hole injectors. And I need to decide on a cam. Right at this moment I'm looking into picking up one from either Clegg, or Russ Pottenger off of Jeepstrokers.com. Mostly just looking at the cost right now.
I also have a new exhaust manifold on the way and friend of mine in SLC has access to a lathe, and is going to open up my TB to 62mm.
I'm sure I'm missing something but this is where I'm at so far. With all of this im looking at around a 9.0:1 CR with about a .054 quench. According to Cleggs they don't have any problems running 87 on this setup in either SLC or vegas, so im hopeful this will give me little to no headache down the road.
More to come
:us:
I've seen several people on here post installs of these and mine was super easy install for cheap
Gentex auto dimming mirror with temp and compass.
Snagged this out of a 98 Chevy Tahoe with the temp sensor from PNP for a wopping 5$!
The thread I followed was from jeepforum and zachjf did an awesome job showing how to do it. Anyone with basic wiring ability should be able to do this install with ease.
Here's the thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/compass-temp-auto-dim-mirror-swap-detailed-lots-o-pics-952705/
The only thing you need to make this work is the mirror, temp sensor, and the plugs that match the mirror and sensor. I grabbed two sensors just in case
The stock mirror is on the left Gentex mirror on the right
This is the plug for the sensor.
This is the 7 pin plug for the mirror.
Next just make a harness from a ground a switched power( I did mine to the cig lighter) and two wires from the sensor to the mirror.
Mount the sensor somewhere out of the elements and away from engine heat.( mines in the bumper on the divers side.) Run your wires and you're done. Now you will never get lost again........ :laugh2:
I have never seen this mod before and I like the idea alot. My question is about being tall. I had to do the mirror flip so that my mirror wasnt sitting in the middle of my line of sight. Were you able to move the location of the mirror to keep it up and out of the way?
- Location
- Henderson, NV
These mirrors are pretty much the same size as the stock ones, thicker of course, but other wise fairly close to the same. I pushed mine up just as it is and it seems to be out of the way for me.
But being 5'10" I don't think anyone has ever called me tall........
But being 5'10" I don't think anyone has ever called me tall........
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Added a new sticker to compliment my current situation.
I was thinking about grabbing two sensors and putting one in my engine compartment oven so I can see what temps my food cooks at at the push of a button.
I've seen several people on here post installs of these and mine was super easy install for cheap
Gentex auto dimming mirror with temp and compass.
Snagged this out of a 98 Chevy Tahoe with the temp sensor from PNP for a wopping 5$!
The thread I followed was from jeepforum and zachjf did an awesome job showing how to do it. Anyone with basic wiring ability should be able to do this install with ease.
Here's the thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/compass-temp-auto-dim-mirror-swap-detailed-lots-o-pics-952705/
The only thing you need to make this work is the mirror, temp sensor, and the plugs that match the mirror and sensor. I grabbed two sensors just in case
The stock mirror is on the left Gentex mirror on the right
This is the plug for the sensor.
This is the 7 pin plug for the mirror.
Next just make a harness from a ground a switched power( I did mine to the cig lighter) and two wires from the sensor to the mirror.
Mount the sensor somewhere out of the elements and away from engine heat.( mines in the bumper on the divers side.) Run your wires and you're done. Now you will never get lost again........ :laugh2:
- Location
- WA state
How well does the compass work? Calibration necessary?
- Location
- Henderson, NV
It works quite well actually. You need to have the compass set in the right "zone" for it to be accurate. North America has 15 zones to select depending on which part of the continent you're on. Every once in a while you'll see a small "CAL" light in the corner and it usually goes away after you make a couple turns. I have since changed to a different style mirror that shows the temp and compass in the same window, instead of switching between the two, but this is still one of my favorite upradges. It was super cheap, and adds a little modern touch to the cab.
- Location
- Henderson, NV
Pulled the rest of the block and its all off to the machine shop.
Spent some time cleaning parts. The intake manifold was a bear.
I ordered injectors for the new motor. I picked up these Bosch 0280155849 24b/hr 4 hole injectors off eBay from injectordyne. Seller claims to flow match, clean and ohm match each set. 75$ shipped to my door was a great deal.
Mine also came with the adaptors for EV4 to Ev6 connectors. I won't need them, as my Jeep already has the EV6 connectors, but I am thinking about taking my old connectors off and replacing them. I grabbed my meter and checked them all out. all are within .1ohm. pretty good.
My fuel rail is, pretty scary. so i went to the junkyard and pick up a "new" one.
however in my haste i made a mistake on the fuel rail. 10$ if you can spot why. So i need to go pick up another one.
Also ordered and new exhaust manifold from DNAmotors. It was a cheap manifold, I don't want to say its a "performance" header but it should be an upgrade to the stock cracked manifold.
That's it for now. next on the list are some Brown Dog motor mounts, and Im sending the TB out to get bored.
more to come:us:
Spent some time cleaning parts. The intake manifold was a bear.
I ordered injectors for the new motor. I picked up these Bosch 0280155849 24b/hr 4 hole injectors off eBay from injectordyne. Seller claims to flow match, clean and ohm match each set. 75$ shipped to my door was a great deal.
Mine also came with the adaptors for EV4 to Ev6 connectors. I won't need them, as my Jeep already has the EV6 connectors, but I am thinking about taking my old connectors off and replacing them. I grabbed my meter and checked them all out. all are within .1ohm. pretty good.
My fuel rail is, pretty scary. so i went to the junkyard and pick up a "new" one.
however in my haste i made a mistake on the fuel rail. 10$ if you can spot why. So i need to go pick up another one.
Also ordered and new exhaust manifold from DNAmotors. It was a cheap manifold, I don't want to say its a "performance" header but it should be an upgrade to the stock cracked manifold.
That's it for now. next on the list are some Brown Dog motor mounts, and Im sending the TB out to get bored.
more to come:us:
