Build thread White '99

RCP Phx said:
You degree a cam because most manufacturer's don't use straight up timing. In the case of your Comp cam, it is suggested to run 3* advanced!
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Interesting, how do you degree it with out buying a new cam sprocket? I never went through checking the degree of the cam. The install instructions that came with the cam said it wasn't necessary and referred to the FSM for installation of the cam.

I'll have to do some more research on this and see what I can find. I know the cam I bought is -4*retarded, so if I was supposed to be installed 3* advanced why have the -4* in the first place? Just thinking out loud.
 
Not sure where you got those numbers? Anyway the more common gear sets have a +4, 0, and -4 "crank degree" adjustments and the Rollermaster I bought has +8, +6, +4, +2, 0, -2, -4, -6, and -8 on them again in crankshaft degrees, camshaft is 1/2 of those values.
P1080499_zps1kyaymct.jpg
 
Yeah my timing set doesn't have that. Just one keyway on both crank and cam sprockets. On the Cam 68-231-4 I was told the -4 means its made with a -4 degree retard. But I could be wrong, this is my first time dealing with Cams.. I went and reread the comp cams install instructions and it says they recommend their timing set because some factory sets retard timing. My set is just a factory OEM set so I'm not sure what the timing is on this set.

The more I think about this the more I should have put a degree whee on and actually checked this. And I should have looked into an upgraded timing set. My machinist is the one who set me all up with the cam and timing set so I just went with it.
 
Just an update. Ive been driving the jeep for the last couple weeks, and I'm pretty happy witht the increase of torque and hp at the pedal. Engine runs really well on 87oct. So far Ive got almost 500 miles on the engine, and I'm just now feeling comfortable enough to push the engine a little harder on the road. The exhaust leak and oil leaks were all repaired and I have to say, this cam makes this engine sound throaty. I like it. :D

Still dealing with higher coolant temps. It will drive around 200-210 for a while and then slowly creep up to the 220 mark. I haven't overheated yet but I'm looking into a replacement Radiator, and a new electric fan. The fan I have in the jeep now is the older style 6 blade fan from the pre 95 years. (previous owner installed it, and ive just never had problems with it) Don't know how much more efficient the new style is, but its the next thing on my list.

Ive also been contemplating going with an electric fan conversion. Whether it be with a kit, or a junkyard upgrade to a Volvo or Taurus fan. Dirtbound Offroad has a really sweet 3 spal fan kit but it sits right at 500$, that's a little out of my spending ability at the moment.

Also, Just as a note to those that are looking into the browndog motor mounts, even with the super flex rubber mount, there is a lot of engine vibration that gets transferred into the body. They are an A+ mount, well built and will probably outlast the jeep. But just beware, you will have to get used to the additional noise and vibes.
 
Id get the radiator first. A decent one of those and a newer fan clutch should fix most of your cooling problems. I think the triple electric fan kits are over rated. I had one in my mj with a stock 4.0 and it barely cooled it here in Texas. My stroker with a csf radiator and mechanical fan had no problems staying cool...
 
gradon said:
Skip e-fan kits but do get the 97+ 10-blade aux fan.
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Exxon Valdez Jeep said:
Id get the radiator first. A decent one of those and a newer fan clutch should fix most of your cooling problems. I think the triple electric fan kits are over rated. I had one in my mj with a stock 4.0 and it barely cooled it here in Texas. My stroker with a csf radiator and mechanical fan had no problems staying cool...
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Good to know about the e fan kits. I wasn't sure if they were really worth the dough. I will be updating to the newer fan when I can find one for a good price.

I bought a new clutch a week or so ago, which helped slightly, but a new radiator is definitely in order. It was recommended to me to pick up the dual core Mopar radiator. the rad is around 300$ but apparently its top notch.

Living in Vegas, I just want to make sure this thing runs cool so I don't have to worry about it in the hot summer months.
 
I had to replace mine last fall and knew what my future was(4.6) so I splurged for a Griffin. They're not cheap but you get what you paid for!
P1080458_zpsek7mvixy.jpg
 
I should add that now that I'm building the 4.6, I also stepped up to the Hesco water pump!
 
I forgot to ask if you put a A/F meter on it to see if you are running lean, that will cause higher temps?
 
Good looking build. I have a 97 white XJ as well, may be emulating some of what you're doing.
 
I want to get a nice upgraded radiator, but I just can't afford the cost of an expensive one. The hardest part of this whole engine overhaul was the fact that the jeep is my daily, broke suddenly and I didn't have a spare block to build on. So I had to do everything quick, and budgeted.

So now I'm at the end of the engine build tunnel (over budget of course) and still need junk. But after all this cooling stuff is complete and done, I want to look into getting an AFR gauge and a wideband o2. Maybe a tune as well. For the time being though, it seems to be running well.

I took the spark plugs out a couple days ago just for an inspection and they look great. No Black carbon buildup and the plugs are still fairly white with a light light brown. So my assumption is that I'm in range, but I won't know for sure until I get a wide band. I did however hook up a scanner, and at idle it's in a closed loop, so I've got that going for me.

One thing I've noticed when I had the intake manifold off is small amounts of motor oil in the intake runners. I'm guessing it's from the PCV system breathing a little too heavily. Oil level has dropped from the full line to slightly above the half way mark over the 1000 miles I have on it so far, so it doesn't seem excessive to me. I installed new pcv elbows when the engine was built, but I thought it was strange that the jeep
 
I read my post from last night and saw I left off a bit there haha

I thought it was strange the jeep PCV valves don't have check valves in them. Just straight elbows. I'll probably install some type of filter to prevent the oil from being injested by the engine.
 
I put air line water remover on mine. Just make sure you seal up the valve in the bottom of the glass (think mine was a husky brand).

A quick dirty way to see if your motor is lean is to watch the o2. If the voltage is staying very low (0.3v or less) when accelerating your going lean.
 
trippled said:
I put air line water remover on mine. Just make sure you seal up the valve in the bottom of the glass (think mine was a husky brand).

A quick dirty way to see if your motor is lean is to watch the o2. If the voltage is staying very low (0.3v or less) when accelerating your going lean.
Click to expand...

Good to know, I'm assuming the scanner should show o2 voltage? If not I could push in through the back shell of the plug.
 
Jeepedo129 said:
Good to know, I'm assuming the scanner should show o2 voltage? If not I could push in through the back shell of the plug.
Click to expand...

Backprobing may work with a DVM, but it would depend largely on the DVM's update frequency.
 
The scanner I have is the innova 3160e. It does have live data. Not sure which parameter to look at. I'm assuming it's O2S B1S1 voltage but it jumps around from 1.0-.30 just sitting at idle. When I accelerate it does the same but seems to hit .700-.800 regularly but will dip down to .100-.200. Never really had to look into this data, so if someone has some more insight here that would be great. This is the live data I pulled after I drove home sitting at idle.

Fuel system 1: CL

Calc load (%). 6.7

ECT (F*). 217.5

STFT B1 (%). 0.0

LTFT B1. (%). -7.8

Map (InHG). 12.1

Eng RPM 836

Spark adv.(*) 14

IAT (F). 170.5

TPS(%). 19.2

O2S Loc. B1S1___
B2S___

O2S B1S1(V). .820. (This value jumps around from 1.0 to .365 at idle)

STFT B1S1 (%). -3.1

O2S B1S2(V). .100

STFT B1S2 (%). 99.2
 
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