Well, he wants to upgrade to disc brakes. Explorers already have rear disc. Bigger 31 spline axles. Bigger pinion shaft. The only downfall is 8.8 is c-clip.
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bought a Dana 44... now what?
- Thread starter shortbussrydah
- Start date
Well, he wants to upgrade to disc brakes. Explorers already have rear disc. Bigger 31 spline axles. Bigger pinion shaft. The only downfall is 8.8 is c-clip.
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Disregard...I figured out that you meant WJ discs out back and not up front.....
And the carrier in the 8.8 is weaker, and the tubes must be welded at the carrier to keep from spinning a tube, and it's narrower, and the internals are more expensive, and the diff is a rock-grabbing plow, and getting the e-brakes to mate to the XJ requires more work......
Keep the D44, add a set of Alloy Shafts..... preferably from a
supporting vendor.Hmm...very true. I take my "blank statement" back.Disregard...I figured out that you meant WJ discs out back and not up front.....
And the carrier in the 8.8 is weaker, and the tubes must be welded at the carrier to keep from spinning a tube, and it's narrower, and the internals are more expensive, and the diff is a rock-grabbing plow, and getting the e-brakes to mate to the XJ requires more work......
Keep the D44, add a set of Alloy Shafts..... preferably from a
RWKHausSupply
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- yorba linda, Cali
IMO:
I would do a 8.8 before a D44.
reasons.
MUCH stronger tubes.
You are going to truss it anyways right? Welding all that to the thinner and smaller D44 tubes will likely bend the housing/tubes in a D44. Alot less likely in a 8.8 and you will remove the down side of the 8.8 and welding the tubes to the housing, since you will have a truss that will be welded to both tubes and the housing (if done right).
The c-clip eliminator for the 8.8 brings the width back to stock, adds chromoly axles, and removes the C-clip down side (if that really is one). And only about 100$ more then your chromoly D44 axle kit.
The disc brake do not impose any real ebake issues to a XJ, either spend the 45$ on new direct fit cables that just fit it all together like it was stock, or just do the cable mod for about 10$ that most do.
The disc brakes are already on the axle and parts are same or cheaper then a D44 for future maint.
I hope if you get a D44 you will replace the carrier with a locker or quality posi? If so then the F8.8 is only about a 50$ add, to do the same. SO a little bit of a down side but you get a stronger assembly when done.
The 8.8 uses a flange, alot better for any 'rubbing' of the yoke/flange then a yoke.
Only good side to the D44 is if you really wanted to go 35spline, you can, but then your stuck with a ARB or POSSIBLY a detroit if you can find one.
And I do agree though, Buy from a major supporting vendor if you need parts.
I would do a 8.8 before a D44.
reasons.
MUCH stronger tubes.
You are going to truss it anyways right? Welding all that to the thinner and smaller D44 tubes will likely bend the housing/tubes in a D44. Alot less likely in a 8.8 and you will remove the down side of the 8.8 and welding the tubes to the housing, since you will have a truss that will be welded to both tubes and the housing (if done right).
The c-clip eliminator for the 8.8 brings the width back to stock, adds chromoly axles, and removes the C-clip down side (if that really is one). And only about 100$ more then your chromoly D44 axle kit.
The disc brake do not impose any real ebake issues to a XJ, either spend the 45$ on new direct fit cables that just fit it all together like it was stock, or just do the cable mod for about 10$ that most do.
The disc brakes are already on the axle and parts are same or cheaper then a D44 for future maint.
I hope if you get a D44 you will replace the carrier with a locker or quality posi? If so then the F8.8 is only about a 50$ add, to do the same. SO a little bit of a down side but you get a stronger assembly when done.
The 8.8 uses a flange, alot better for any 'rubbing' of the yoke/flange then a yoke.
Only good side to the D44 is if you really wanted to go 35spline, you can, but then your stuck with a ARB or POSSIBLY a detroit if you can find one.
And I do agree though, Buy from a major supporting
vendor if you need parts.
Larrythedog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Covina CA
IMO:
I would do a 8.8 before a D44.
reasons.
MUCH stronger tubes.
You are going to truss it anyways right? Welding all that to the thinner and smaller D44 tubes will likely bend the housing/tubes in a D44. Alot less likely in a 8.8 and you will remove the down side of the 8.8 and welding the tubes to the housing, since you will have a truss that will be welded to both tubes and the housing (if done right).
The c-clip eliminator for the 8.8 brings the width back to stock, adds chromoly axles, and removes the C-clip down side (if that really is one). And only about 100$ more then your chromoly D44 axle kit.
The disc brake do not impose any real ebake issues to a XJ, either spend the 45$ on new direct fit cables that just fit it all together like it was stock, or just do the cable mod for about 10$ that most do.
The disc brakes are already on the axle and parts are same or cheaper then a D44 for future maint.
I hope if you get a D44 you will replace the carrier with a locker or quality posi? If so then the F8.8 is only about a 50$ add, to do the same. SO a little bit of a down side but you get a stronger assembly when done.
The 8.8 uses a flange, alot better for any 'rubbing' of the yoke/flange then a yoke.
Only good side to the D44 is if you really wanted to go 35spline, you can, but then your stuck with a ARB or POSSIBLY a detroit if you can find one.
And I do agree though, Buy from a major supporting
Well said. Only thing I would do differant on my 8.8 is fab a truss across the back through the diff cover like the D44 build chris_amrein had sugested. That is big, and will greatly improve the 8.8 strengh.
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Lastly....he's already got a D44 from an XJ that is a direct bolt in.IMO:
I would do a 8.8 before a D44.
reasons.
MUCH stronger tubes.
You are going to truss it anyways right? Welding all that to the thinner and smaller D44 tubes will likely bend the housing/tubes in a D44. Alot less likely in a 8.8 and you will remove the down side of the 8.8 and welding the tubes to the housing, since you will have a truss that will be welded to both tubes and the housing (if done right). If welded properly there's no worries about warping a D44.
The c-clip eliminator for the 8.8 brings the width back to stock, adds chromoly axles, and removes the C-clip down side (if that really is one). And only about 100$ more then your chromoly D44 axle kit. More parts to add to eliminate what the d44 doesn't have to begin with.
The disc brake do not impose any real ebake issues to a XJ, either spend the 45$ on new direct fit cables that just fit it all together like it was stock, or just do the cable mod for about 10$ that most do.
The disc brakes are already on the axle and parts are same or cheaper then a D44 for future maint. No appreciable price difference here.
I hope if you get a D44 you will replace the carrier with a locker or quality posi? If so then the F8.8 is only about a 50$ add, to do the same. SO a little bit of a down side but you get a stronger assembly when done.
The 8.8 uses a flange, alot better for any 'rubbing' of the yoke/flange then a yoke. Yes.
Only good side to the D44 is if you really wanted to go 35spline, you can, but then your stuck with a ARB or POSSIBLY a detroit if you can find one.
And I do agree though, Buy from a major supporting
RWKHausSupply
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- yorba linda, Cali
Yes true, but the question I was answering was the one of basically why the 8.8 is better.
In any case:
Welding a truss on to a D44 XJ housing, unless you do a inch per side every 10-20 min and take a day or three to complete, it will warp. How much is the question, are are you willing to live with a warped housing, how ever small or large.
If he is buying chromoly axles, bearings, seals and studs, then he is buying parts that the D44 didnt come with, I was assuming that he would not run stock shafts and would put new bearings and seals in the D44. Sorry.
and as noted IMO...
He wants to weld on a truss so really how much more time would it take to weld on some perches? Not much. And also someone suggested doing u-bolt eliminators so he'd have to cut the d44 perches off anyways. Bolt in the d44 though. And giver.
silverslk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Garbage Grove, CA
You just hate all things Ford, dont you Jim? I can say we ran Compadre Truck Trail and part of the B500 course a few weeks ago with 17 Fords and not one person complained about their "anchor" or had any issues in the desert. :wave:
tcm glx
NAXJA Member #1033
- Location
- Riverside California
Jim Jim Jim!!!
You know the 35s on the Bronco 8.8 work just fine!!
You know the 35s on the Bronco 8.8 work just fine!!
Yea... I must...
On 35's that may be the case
Plenty of people have 8.8's in their crawlers, and their go fast rigs. I said ME PERSONALLY, I would not run the 8.8. A trussed D44 is going to be just fine for what he's going to do with it, and he'll see no advantage by going to an 8.8
tcm glx
NAXJA Member #1033
- Location
- Riverside California
Hahahaha, on the pic of the 250.
Ok, I get it, no need for the 8.8, the 44 will do fine.
Ok, I get it, no need for the 8.8, the 44 will do fine.
Clean Racing
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, Wa
I will jump in and say my .02$ worth..
to the original poster.. Dump the D44 rear, and start building a 35 spline ford 9"..
a ton of support and inexpensive aftermarket racing products everywhere.. stay away from the crappy Chinese axles that many vendors push. I would go with a set from Moser or Dutchman.
This in my opinion is the only way to go for a jeepspeed or prerunner..
to the original poster.. Dump the D44 rear, and start building a 35 spline ford 9"..
a ton of support and inexpensive aftermarket racing products everywhere.. stay away from the crappy Chinese axles that many vendors push. I would go with a set from Moser or Dutchman.
This in my opinion is the only way to go for a jeepspeed or prerunner..
And of course this wouldn't have anything to do with your opinion?
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1070675
For a Jeepspeed? Sure, 9" is the way to go. For a weekend warrior / prerunner? 9" is overkill. If you can afford it, awesome, but for someone who doesn't want to drop $2000+ on an axle, a D44 will work fine (for the millionth time)
Clean Racing
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, Wa
Nope not at all.. cheaper to part out my xj then sell it complete.. has nothing to do with my recommendation. Id still run a custom 9" that will last 10 times longer than a d44.
shortbussrydah
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern California
Attention deficit disorder all over this thread. no im not going to buy an 8.8... or a 9"...
Im going to start off with 1.5" DOM tubing for a truss, taking it slow, inch at a time etc etc.
And i decided im going to just drop a full spool in it, none of that half ass drop in mini-spool bs. it doesnt see too much highway anymore anyways. (bought a commuter POS, best decision ever)
Now as for regearing it, a lot of people say dont even attempt this without a case spreader, a bunch of other tools etc etc. If im on a budget would it be more cost effective to tackle this my self or just hand it to someone and say do it?
silverslk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Garbage Grove, CA
Do you set up gears? If so, do it. If not, there are a bunch of people in SoCal who do gears and for good prices. Post and ask.
shortbussrydah
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern California
i suppose that would be a modified tech form question huh.
Clean Racing
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellingham, Wa
If you need to use a case spreader. You can borrow mine.. I don't do gears anymore here in so cal.. I am in HB until Jan..
