Boostec Supercharger Information

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Just an FYI, here is a list of available SC kits from Sprintex taken from thier website:
http://www.sprintex.com.au/sprintex/

Supercharger Systems

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• Ducati Hypermotard 110
• Harley Davidson V Rod
• Honda Jazz
• Jeep L6 4.0 litre
• Landcruiser
• Toyota 4L V6

All of them us the additional injector to provide the required fuel.

Check them out, then draw your conclusions. BTW, the piggyback controller is tunable via a laptop. As soon as I learn how, I will post. So setting it up for various engine configurations should be doable. My biggest concern is the TB flow rate. Will need to dig into it and figure it out.

The gray text are links to the PDF brouchures...

 

[gradon]

Hey O-gauge--I wasn't knocking the 7th injector, just explaining it. I don't have any experience with FI, so I'm assuming the designers of this kit have the real-world experience and have dialed it in. I'm sure it is an awesome kit and I'm glad you have some work. Anyone who keeps the Jeep-mod game going is AOK in my book.

 

[urban yan]

I spoke to Rick yesterday, and he confirmed he is back to using a 7th injector along with the SMT8 unit. He mentioned the sprintex units are very efficient running fuel through them, but I don't have a sprintex. I have an MP90, so running fuel through it will decrease its life. Opps, did I just finally admit that I have one of Ricks earlier superchargers laying around... I guess I did.

 

[gradon]

Whatever Yan, you were obvious in one of your posts that begged for a reply. So there's a ghost 8th injector, eh?

 

[urban yan]

Whatever Yan, you were obvious in one your posts that begged for a reply. So there's a ghost 8th injector, eh?

huh?

 

[gradon]

"I wouldn't know anything about it"
There would be an unused injector if you used the smt8, right?

 

[urban yan]

I was wrong. I made those comments based on my conversation with Rick Dec 26th when he mentioned he would be using a diablosport intune along with 6 high flow injectors. He was having ALLOT of problems with those perfect power units, and it sounded like he was forced to abandon that option, so you can imagine this thread caught me completely off-guard. Yesterday he mentioned the intune will only work on 2005+ models, so he's back to the Perfect Power SMT8.

When I go through my conversation notes with Rick, he mentioned using the SMT6 (later the SMT8) all the way back in July of last year, and the problems started piling up immediately afterwards. He mentioned the factory ECU was over compensating for the SMT8 codes, and there must-have been differences between the North American and Aussie ECUs (I guess that's where he had the test mule). In October he mentioned the Piggyback unit folks were coming over from Australia the first two weeks of January to sort everything out (they never did). Early December he mentioned the Piggy back was making the Jeep undriveable, and later that month (Dec 26th) he told me he was onto something new, so again you can see why I'm surprised.

Look, I know Rick reads this thread, and I don't want him to think I'm trying to insult him. He's an exceptional engineer, and have the utmost respect for his work. I know he'll sort out the issues.

Having said that, I've had my unit just laying around for over a year and a half (which runs on a 7th injector too btw); I was really excited about the prospect of running 6 injectors. I was already making plans to put my Zeitronix boost sensor where the Hobbs Switch was, and my air temp sensor in place of the 7th injector.

 

[gradon]

My conclusion with modding(high comp strokers, turbos, blowers) and obd2 is screw the Closed Loop, disco the Coolant Temp Sensor in the t-stat or use a resistor inline to keep it in Open Loop warm-up mode and then you can use the piggy back to tune whatever afrs across the board without the pcm intervening. 96 and belows without the CCD bus and with the temp guage sender in the head will still give you the correct temp(or as correct as that guage is) in the dash. When I finally get my brother to ride with me, I'll do just that, then take it to the same dyno as my baseline was, and we'll see how much better the curve is without the pcm interfering.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

My conclusion with modding(high comp strokers, turbos, blowers) and obd2 is screw the Closed Loop, disco the Coolant Temp Sensor in the t-stat or use a resistor inline to keep it in Open Loop warm-up mode and then you can use the piggy back to tune whatever afrs across the board without the pcm intervening. 96 and belows without the CCD bus and with the temp guage sender in the head will still give you the correct temp(or as correct as that guage is) in the dash. When I finally get my brother to ride with me, I'll do just that, then take it to the same dyno as my baseline was, and we'll see how much better the curve is without the pcm interfering.

or... you could use a piggyback that allows you to offset the O2 sensor voltage which gives you complete control of closed loop AFRs. It essentially tricks the ECU that the motor's gone lean, and allows enrichment to compensate. I cruise around 14.7, but when it reachs low boost (still in closed loop) it dips down to 13:1 due to an offset I've entered.

While the method you mentioned would work, isn't exactly the best if your looking for the best MPG or if you need to pass emissions.

 

[gradon]

I haven't used the narrow band output of the lm-2 I have to feed the pcm, but I believe there is an offset feature--dunno if it offsets it across the board or if you can offset it at certain rpms. My high-comp 4.6(10:1scr, 8.56dcr) doesn't like to be held at 14.7:1 in the 2.5-3.1K part-throttle(right where the torque peaks). I'm gonna shoot for 14.7:1@2k, 14:[email protected], 13.3:1@3K, and 12.7:[email protected]+.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

I haven't used the narrow band output of the lm-2 I have to feed the pcm, but I believe there is an offset feature--dunno if it offsets it across the board or if you can offset it at certain rpms. My high-comp 4.6(10:1scr, 8.56dcr) doesn't like to be held at 14.7:1 in the 2.5-3.1K part-throttle(right where the torque peaks). I'm gonna shoot for 14.7:1@2k, 14:[email protected], 13.3:1@3K, and 12.7:[email protected]+.

Yeah, the AEM has it's own O2 map. You can input your own offset value, percentage change, direct output value...ect. The map is Load X RPM. You could easily do a staged AFR with it. I wouldn't be surprised if the LM-2 was similar.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

It is 0815 and I am on my way to Boostec to do the installation of the production SC kit into Rick's 97 Country! Will post pics most likely on Tuesday.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

A few quick pics!
Linkage Bracket

Manifold Support Bracket

Side of Manifold

Top of Manifold

Bottom of Manifold

Bottom of SC

More Pics to come!

 

[urban yan]

The manifold's gorgeous. Did you guys make any progress installing the unit?
Any news on the piggyback?

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

No kidding, gorgeous is the word. It looks better than the factory manifold. As of now, the manifold is in as is the blower. Tha vacuum lines are ran, the linkage bracket is in along with the second MAP sensor, the one that the SMT-8 uses to read the boost level.

The overall quality of these parts is nothing short of astonishing. Details like the second MAP mounts to the linkage bracket. OK, so what you ask? The bracket is a custom part that has proper reliefs at every bend. The holes that the MAP secures to are threaded...

If you look at the bottom of the manifold, you can see three lather large reliefs. These are here to provide, wait for it, access to the mounting hardware. Really? An intake that is easy to mount? What were they thinking? All the way through this I am seeing detail after detail. All very well thought out. Keep in mind that the intent is to provide a plug and play system to the end user.

We have not mounted the SMT-8 yet, will let you know when that happens.

Electrically:
2 MAPs, one for the SMT-8 to read the boost, the other is the factory one for the factory PCM.
2 IATs, again one for the SMT-8 to read the pressurized air temp, the other is under the TB to read the vacuum side air temp for the factory PCM.


On another issue, we started looking today to see what it will take to install the electric water pump. I am in process of installing an overhead console so I can directly compare before and after milage. The pump manufacturer has found a 10 to 12 HP gain which your butt-dyno will not feel. It will improve the mileage. Stay tuned for results, just don't hold your breath as I have to get my side of the install done and being disabled, it will take a while...

All for now!

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

After discovering we needed a 2" longer serpentine and that the factory fuel line was a tad short, we got it started without the SMT-8 online.

We batted the idea around of adding cowl air intake as either an option of part of the Kit. Rick is in contact with Spectre getting pricing.

We also kicked the idea around of using the AEM ECM extender harness to simplify user installation. It would be prewired so that the end user would only need to plug it in. No cutting of the factory wiring. Comments on this? It looks like all of the PCMs from 97 to 04 wire the same If you all wanted to pitch in, I need the PCM connections for the following signals:

These I have from my 1998 XJ FSM and a 2000 TJ FSM.
Switched 12V connector A pin 2
CPS connector A pin 8
Coolant temp Connector A pin 16
TPS Connector A pin 23

FSM's will need to be checked as you really can't trust the Haynes of Chiltons manuals...

 

[kastein]

I have 91, 96, 97, 98 and 99 FSMs on hand (some at work, some at home.) Let me know what exactly you want info on...

 

[yossarian19]

I have Cherokee 97 - 01 FSMs.
Email [email protected] with any requests. Well not *any* but you know what I mean.

 

[urban yan]

We batted the idea around of adding cowl air intake as either an option of part of the Kit. Rick is in contact with Spectre getting pricing.

If I could offer one piece of advice; get the supercharger working first. Those ECU/ piggyback issues have-been plaqing this kit for quite some time. The goodies can wait.

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Urban,
Mechanically, we are complete. This kit very nearly assembles itself onto the XJ. no fighting to get anything bolted into place. I do believe we are looking to install the SMT-8 today (3/30) and proceed from there.

There are a couple of minor issues that will be resolved prior to kit availability. One is the replacement idler/tensioner bracket. There is a mount for an axtra idle pulley we do not need but is required on the RHD vehicles.

Target install time is "less than a say". I believe that it can be done in 5 to 6 hours. We would need to start with a stock XJ and time it. This install involved removing to prototype SC and that took extra time. The biggest changes from proto to production is the intake manifold and the SC mounting flange. The prototype was even more difficult to work with than a 99+ intake manifold... The production unit has tool clearance for the three, lower mounting bolts that are such a pain. You can actually SEE what you are doing. The SC flange bolts much easier also. Mechanically, extremely well thought out. Keep in mind that literally millions of dollars have been spent on this kit as the market for the kit is in the millions of vehicles.

Sprintex is owned by ATG which is a publically traded company on the Australian Stock exchange. ATG is a ISO9001 certified company for those of you that know what that means. For those that don't, to get an ISO9001 cert, there are quality control measures that must be in place and adhered to. It is expensive to get the cert and you are audited every year. I was on the ISO commitee when I worked for NTI here in the Springs...