BEST OIL?!

[97XJ Jeeper]

all mobil 1 is syn, didnt know that. thanks

 

[TunaSoda]

Mobile 1 is pure synthetic.

Mobile 1 still comes from petroleum based stock, it is not a "pure synthetic" oil


"In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil.
Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils."

(these excerpts taken from this article: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html)

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

Another vote for Mobil 1. Switched mine about two years ago and havent looked back. It's the only oil i'll run in the Jeeps and the truck.

I run 10W30 in all three of them, but i'm contimplating switching the Jeeps over to 5W30 for the winter months, just because of the concern of cold starts with a thick(er) oil. In addition, mine goes for a period of a week at a time (roughly) with out being run, so not only is it cold outside, but all the oil has drained down off the enigne, making it even harder.

 

[RyanM]

Mobil 1 10w-30 is where its at. I tried their extended performance crap, but i like the way the regular synthetic runs. But I do like Mobil's extended performance filter, that and Puralator.

Those two oils are pretty much the same formula. Except the EP has a more robust add pack.

Mobil uses hydrocracked group III bases and PAO bases.

Those on M1, should try the High Mileage SL, with A Lot more Phosphorus

 

[JNickel101]

RyanM, do different weights/visco's of the same brand/type of oil have different additive levels?

for instance...10w30 M1 High Mileage vs lets say, 10w40 M1 High Mileage....same ZDDP levels?

 

[Higgs98XJ]

Those two oils are pretty much the same formula. Except the EP has a more robust add pack.

Mobil uses hydrocracked group III bases and PAO bases.

Those on M1, should try the High Mileage SL, with A Lot more Phosphorus

maybe i accidentally used a different weight or something.

 

[RyanM]

RyanM, do different weights/visco's of the same brand/type of oil have different additive levels?

for instance...10w30 M1 High Mileage vs lets say, 10w40 M1 High Mileage....same ZDDP levels?

No, and yes.

For the common vehicle, 5w-30, 10w-30 are the oil usually used. The add packs will be the same. They will change something else to get the pour point lower. Or like your said, those will have same add pack, it will just be thicker at 210*.

But companies who make 'not common' grades, like ExxonMobil, will use different add packs in their 0-40 weight (European formula iirc.) and the 20w-50 has more zddp and obviously some thick stuff.

Pretty much all oils on the shelves you see at autozone are using Moly and Boron, magnesium sometimes (and top oil makers) These are what is replenishing the lost non-eco friendly zinc and Ph. ONE can argue that These DO the job of the other lost anti-wear parts. I do agree to some point. I believe they are developing oil based on the new motors they are making. Though the formulations work on flattappet cams ( ~700ppm zddp, SM), I trust the studies from years past on the need for 1200ppm zinc and ph. for flat tappet cams.
This is why I like the HEAVY DUTY (1)5w-40 weights((although these are taking not so dramatic changes as well(CJ-4)), and the SL formulations in my rig.

 

[RyanM]

Looks good out the gate :thumbup:

More Boron, Calcium, Zinc and Phosphors than Regular Mobil-1

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

Valvoline sucks. :bs:

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

I'm just giving you shit dude...I know that you know what you're talking about, but you talk at the level of a chemical engineer, and most people have no idea what you're talking about....

99.9999% of the users on here will be fine with just an overall good oil, but you seem to push yours to the extreme and maybe you're a ltitle paranoid about engine wear. you worry about 100-200 PARTS PER MILLION...thats MILLION....we're talking ten thousandths of a percent here....like it was said earlier, unless you are running the shit out of the oil and breaking it completely down, you're gonna be okay with regular changes....I like being able to change mine and have it still show a little "color" to it, instead of being completely jet black.

X2 Some of us are just dumbass hillbillies.......Give it a rest!!:twak:

 

[RyanM]

You don't have to read it son. And if your a dumbass why comment. Maybe this is useless info to you, but it is Valuable info for those who care. Look for my quote in the earlier pages " If you like the oil you are using, and it is working for YOU, keep using it. :gee::nono:

 

[RyanM]

This is my last post about oil. I just re read that and take for example(which I have seen work) You have a 2000-2001 XJ, TJ, WJ. You do an oil analysis, for the 20-30 dollars it costs. Knowing this oil does not have these elements, like valvoline and castrol uses; You find out you have 100ppm Sodium and 100ppm Potassium. Wear numbers are high as well Fe shedding is around 100ppm. Lead and copper are high as well from the bearing . thats thousants of a percent.

You learn that your head is cracked, like the thousands of others, seeping SMALL amounts of Antifreeze into the crankcase.

Instead of taking that Christmas visit to the In-laws In the XJ, You take the Camry Instead. You catch the problem before something worse happens. The XJ is getting a new head and fluids. Possibly other parts while your in there. You do quick OCI's for a while and continue your usually oil changes. Test back a year later, numbers are down, I can breathe a little better, and sleep better. Later

 

[pma4x4]

I have a 96 XJ with 144xxx miles on it. I run Rotella 15w-40. I change it and the filter every 3000 miles. When i first bought the XJ and did the valve cover gasket it had black sludge and carbon all over. 4 oil changes down the road after changin to Rotella i had to take off the V cover for another reason and found it to be clean with that nice slight golden color.

My oil still shows some brown coloring in it when i change it. The piston slap noise is much quiter. and engine seems more responsive. I currently run Fram filters. I plan on changing to Wix if i can get a good deal by the case for them.

We just picked up a 95 ZJ with 206K miles on it and the thing runs like a top. He says he was running hi mileage oil thru it bought never new what it was cause the shop always did the work.

I plan on running the same Rotella 15w-40 thru that as well. I live in AZ so 15w40 works for me.

Total fluids
Prestone Antifreeze
Rotella oil
Valvoline Dex/Merc
Valvoline gear oil

M2C

 

[w_howey]

I have a 96 XJ with 144xxx miles on it. I run Rotella 15w-40. I change it and the filter every 3000 miles. When i first bought the XJ and did the valve cover gasket it had black sludge and carbon all over. 4 oil changes down the road after changin to Rotella i had to take off the V cover for another reason and found it to be clean with that nice slight golden color.

My oil still shows some brown coloring in it when i change it. The piston slap noise is much quiter. and engine seems more responsive. I currently run Fram filters. I plan on changing to Wix if i can get a good deal by the case for them.

We just picked up a 95 ZJ with 206K miles on it and the thing runs like a top. He says he was running hi mileage oil thru it bought never new what it was cause the shop always did the work.

I plan on running the same Rotella 15w-40 thru that as well. I live in AZ so 15w40 works for me.

Total fluids
Prestone Antifreeze
Rotella oil
Valvoline Dex/Merc
Valvoline gear oil

M2C

Pm sent....

 

[RyanM]

The oil turning 'dark' means it's working! Dirt/shit is gonna get in, you can't stop that, all you can do is a good oil change routine, and TLC, which it sounds like you've got that down :thumbup:

My buddies running the Rotella-T dino and even with UOA's showing 4.5% fuel :scared: The oild held it's own in protecting vital parts!

Turns out a leaky injector was drippin into the crank after shut off! Not too uncommon on Renix xj's....... New injectors and his fuel numbers are back to normal and wear is consistent!

 

[alex22]

I have worked in an automotive machine shop for over two years, and all of the guys I work with agree that synthetic oil is just too slick to use in a flat tappet cam. For those of you who may be dubmass hillbillies, Oil that is too slippery will prevent a lifter from rotating on a cam. For a flat tappet lifter to survive it must rotate, when it stops rotating the lifter/cam combonation will fail. Either the cam will be worn flat or the lifter will be ground away, the face will have a severe low spot in the middle. While they are supposed to have a slightly concave face, more is not better. The guys have seen lifters that have worn through their face.
The ZDDP Is very important for the break in. The ZDDP was removed from all oil that is meant of highway use as of January first 2004. The last year Jeep put the 4.0 I6 in the Cherokee was 2004. (I know it continued in the wranglers until 2006, but that might have been a power issue or Jeep didn't want to loose money on their stock of I6's). Back to the initial break in, All of your cherokee's were first run on the oil with ZDDP still in it. My brother built a 318 for his truck and did not follow proper break in procedures and also ran Castrol GTX. After a few months on a brand new Comp Cams cam and lifters he lost the #1 intake lobe. There are a bunch of members who have had cam/lifter failures on their newly rebuilt engines.
Camcraft Cams has a good, and easy to understand explanation of why there has been more cam failures. Once you click the link, look on the left side of the page and select "Cam Failures".
I have only had my 96 XJ sport with 151xxx miles for about 5000 of those. My last oil change I used the Brad Penn Green oil (the oil is a dark green color out of the bottle) it isnt too expensive it was between 3 and 4 dollars a quart. Joe Gibbs makes an oil for street oil "Hot Rod" but it is expensive. 50 bucks for 6 quarts. When I build my 4.0 or stroker I plan on runing Gibbs break in oil for the first few hours, then switch to Brad Penn's Green Oil.

just my two cents.

~Alex

 

[jonnyz123]

How about for filters ive heard not to use fram?

 

[alex22]

I use NAPA brand, and have for the past 3 years (i've had my lisence for 3 years). The shop I work at uses NAPA filters for engine dyno sessions.

~Alex

 

[RyanM]

Too slippery? You have to specify which oil you are referring too..
Shit you are using iis 'part synthetic.

Synthetic you find on shelves is mostly group III, so that wouldn't make sense.

Was the motor stock above the head? The study that is so important says 1200 zddp for flat tappets. Shit i'm running is that and some.

Brad Penn straight 30 is sweet for a cam break in. 1400 ppm znc and ph. plus 3K calcium

 

[kttate75]

I run Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 with any brand filter other than Fram and have zero oil-related problems on my '96 with 178k miles