BEST OIL?!
- Thread starter blackdoutxj
- Start date
twoksl2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Corinth, NY
I've been using valvoline syn for quite a while now and have been happy with it
1985xjlaredo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kansas City
If you leak alot go with Valvoline or havolin, If not go with amsoil you can easily run it for 5000 miles between changes
If you leak a lot, find out where it is coming from. Sorry but you put two of the worst available oils up against one of the most quality oils available.
I guess you can say it's preference but unless you are seeing what elements are in your motor oil, you basically know nothing.
I guess you can say it's preference but unless you are seeing what elements are in your motor oil, you basically know nothing.
JNickel101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alamogordo, NM
Well, this thread is worthless now......anything anyone says will be wrong and corrected by RyanM and since he's the only one who gets their oil tested, he's the only one who's right....lol...
Ba-Riedo
has frame envy
- Location
- redmond/bellingham, wa
so is amsoil the best way to go? and i thought going from regular oil to a full synthetic could screw up the engine?
88xjchief
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Connecticut
Going from regular oil to synthetic wont screw up an engine. It will lossen up sludge and you will find your leaks. I switched my XJ from regular to royal purple and it started leaking more. I fixed most of them but the rear main is the worst. It runs alot better after doing a couple of oil changes since then.
What weight is the best? The owners manual says 20w50 or 10w40.
What weight is the best? The owners manual says 20w50 or 10w40.
blackdoutxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula,CA
i run amsoil on my bikes, and I LOVE IT, didnt kno they made it for cars too, so what amsoil do u run...1985xjlaredo said:
w_howey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Mudwest
RyanM said:
Not necessary at all.....
You are trying to compare to differing classes of oil.
AMSOIL is a high end, full synthetic. Valvoline and Havoline are regular dino oils. They don't really compare, and don't market to the same users either.
Valvoline and Havoline are both fine products for the class of oil they are in.
ZDDP levels are important in oils to a certain point. ZDDP forms the 'last line of defense' for your engine in the case of oil breakdown. Most people here will never reach that point as we are mostly 'gearheads' and we care for our vehicles more than that.
w_howey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Mudwest
blackdoutxj said:
I run 10w-30 XL Synthetic in my Jeep and my truck.
I could probably drop to a 5w-30, but I'm still stuck on the years and years of service I've gotten from 10w formulations.
Comanchedude
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cincinnati,Ohio
boy what a question..kinda like whats the best spark plug debate.. 
How many people here bought there jeep with over 100k or even over 200k?
How many jeep 6cyl are running fine with well over 200k...answer most of them
Well if the engine lasted that long before you bought it. That kind of tells you it doesn’t matter.
All brands are good you just need to change it based on your usage,3k changes are the most recommended (severe duty)
As for oils analysis well that’s funny, you really think the oil brands that you see today are selling oil that’s not going to do the job? Most of the brands you see have been around Way before most people on this site were born so they know how to make oil and they know more than everyone on this site. Just get name brand on sale if you want to save money if you like to blow money then by all means buy some $7-$10 a quart "bling oil" and dont forget to change it.
IT’S ALL GOOD
How many people here bought there jeep with over 100k or even over 200k?
How many jeep 6cyl are running fine with well over 200k...answer most of them
Well if the engine lasted that long before you bought it. That kind of tells you it doesn’t matter.
All brands are good you just need to change it based on your usage,3k changes are the most recommended (severe duty)
As for oils analysis well that’s funny, you really think the oil brands that you see today are selling oil that’s not going to do the job? Most of the brands you see have been around Way before most people on this site were born so they know how to make oil and they know more than everyone on this site. Just get name brand on sale if you want to save money if you like to blow money then by all means buy some $7-$10 a quart "bling oil" and dont forget to change it.
IT’S ALL GOOD
Hellbent
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- san diego, california
a 4.0 filled with a mixture of water and sand would probably go past 200k. fill it with whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy and change it at regular intervals, it'll go forever.
blackdoutxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula,CA
ok ill try that out for sure, where do ya buy yours, the only place round here that i know sells amsoil is the motorsports stores and thats only for bike and i kno autozone doesnt have it....not sure bout kragen or napa...ya order it?!w_howey said:
Just my $.02 worth... I have been using Mobil 1 for a LONG time. I used it in my '96 Cobra that had well over 175K miles on it when I sold it... the new owner broke down the motor for a rebuild for another vehicle and said the bearings and rings and everything else looked like it had already been rebuilt...
On my current '96 XJ... I've got a little over 214K miles and run Mobil 1 5W-30 and change the oil every 5K miles and (knock on wood) my XJ has ZERO engine problems that are oil related. Doesn't burn any oil and has very little leaks... considering it's got the 214K miles...
The cost is a little bit more, but worth it for me.
On my current '96 XJ... I've got a little over 214K miles and run Mobil 1 5W-30 and change the oil every 5K miles and (knock on wood) my XJ has ZERO engine problems that are oil related. Doesn't burn any oil and has very little leaks... considering it's got the 214K miles...
The cost is a little bit more, but worth it for me.
Just trying to share my 2cents. Keep pouring cheap SM dino in....JNickel101 said:
take these oil analysis's for example. 2001 4.0
mobil 1 Delvac 1 German CASTROL
10w-30 5w-40 5w-40 5w-40 0w-30 0w-30
8/04 10/04 1/06 5/06 12/06 2/07
6230 mi 9961 mi 11416 16477 8,273 11305
42,283 52,361 79,416 96,974 113,333 124638
K&N FL1a LF3487 LF3487 AmsEAO15 AmsEAO15
Iron 50 41 26 64 28 36
Chromium 2 1 2 3 1 1
Lead 1 1 3 3 2 1
Copper 5 6 10 10 4 5
Tin 1 0 0 0 0 0
Aluminum 4 6 5 7 3 4
Nickel 1 1 2 2 0 0
Silver 0 0 0 0 0 0
Silicon 9 14 15 15 18 19
Boron 168 35 25 26 5 2
Sodium 15 9 12 19 10 12
Potassium 2 4 6 10 2 2
Magnesium 59 439 365 370 182 165
Calcium 2447 2259 1969 2151 2543 2652
Phos. 1056 1210 961 1114 794 700
Zinc 1046 1455 1200 1293 987 924
Moly 85 8 4 5 5 3
Fuel A A A A A A
Water <0.1 <0.1 <0.1 <0.1 <0.1 <0.1
Visc100C 10.4 15.6 16.7 19.4 12.2 12
TBN 6.29 N/A 4.79 4.11 4.8 1.16
Oxid 34 28 9.00 20 19 19
Nitr 15 15 5.60 10.6 12.50 12.4
This guy is still getting good numbers, although coolant may be present with high sodium and potassium..(0331) He's also got significant dirt getting in a leak or dirty filter, Silicon. should be around 7
Given the hell this 4.0 is receiving, these oils are doing outstanding in the presence of abuse and extended interval's...... His Iron is high, but these things shed Fe, they say timing chain. His bearings, lead and copper are doing very well again given the hell this beast is going through!
Last edited:
w_howey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Mudwest
blackdoutxj said:
Look at the sig....
I get it from myself.....
Here's one of mine. This is the first time i went with this lab. The download chart is nice. Some say the aren't the best but oh well.
Motor was driven very hard on this 4,500mi interval with RP. STP was used before this OCI. It was about 8 months ago and I saved the sample. I have Fuel present. Could be because I didn't drive it the recommended 20min highway. I did more like 15 min. at 45mph. Could be a injector leaking down my cylinders.
K&N oil filter, oversized
K&N cone was used, note the 8ppm silicon.
Fe is also very low for these hogs at 9
lead and copper are too high. bearings.
I ran some rotella syn. drained after a fast OCI and I ran a mix of delvac 1 and rotella syn. Mostly Delvac, leftover rotella.... 4K all numbers stayed the same pretty much. copper dropped to 10 lead to 5. I can live with it hopefully they will still come down. no soot. water or antifreeze. Fuel was lower but still I'm keeping a eye on it. IMO, These HD syn's stand up to a lot
Take this for what it is worth. If you like your oil, keep using it. save the flames
Motor was driven very hard on this 4,500mi interval with RP. STP was used before this OCI. It was about 8 months ago and I saved the sample. I have Fuel present. Could be because I didn't drive it the recommended 20min highway. I did more like 15 min. at 45mph. Could be a injector leaking down my cylinders.
K&N oil filter, oversized
K&N cone was used, note the 8ppm silicon.
Fe is also very low for these hogs at 9
lead and copper are too high. bearings.
I ran some rotella syn. drained after a fast OCI and I ran a mix of delvac 1 and rotella syn. Mostly Delvac, leftover rotella.... 4K all numbers stayed the same pretty much. copper dropped to 10 lead to 5. I can live with it hopefully they will still come down. no soot. water or antifreeze. Fuel was lower but still I'm keeping a eye on it. IMO, These HD syn's stand up to a lot
Take this for what it is worth. If you like your oil, keep using it. save the flames
w_howey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Mudwest
RyanM said:
$7.50 per quart. Split the shipping to VA....
homebrew
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bremerton, WA
I use royal p 211+++ miles no leaks no problems. They claim you can go 12000 miles with out a change by just changing the filters and topping off at the recommended intervals. I do about 8 with a filter change at 4. Been running that sense I got it with 183K on it. Runs like a champ
