Best longarms for Mid-atlantic wheeling?

[sunburned]

I hear ya. Perfect would be awesome, but I'll settle for damn good and works how I need it to.



On a side note, I'm not sure why nobody has made a really good system. Something like the 3 link vetteboy made seems fairly simple for a big company to produce. Nothing super special needs to be done as far as cutting up the body and chassis, plus I'm sure a ton of guys would buy it.

 

[ktm racer 419]

I hear ya. Perfect would be awesome, but I'll settle for damn good and works how I need it to.



On a side note, I'm not sure why nobody has made a really good system. Something like the 3 link vetteboy made seems fairly simple for a big company to produce. Nothing super special needs to be done as far as cutting up the body and chassis, plus I'm sure a ton of guys would buy it.

the thing is the majoroty of people looking to buy a decent longarm setup do not have cutting into thier floor on thier list of things they want to do.

to get a decent antisquat number you generally need a good amount of link separation at the frame end of things. either you make the lowers hang low or the upper really high. no off the shelf kit has much separation between the links. granted the 3/4 links are better than the radius arms in that aspect, but in most of them ground clearance suffers a little.

I didnt want to cut into my floor, but wanted a 3 link. so i made a mid-arm

my upper is right around where the floor begins to come up and lowers are mounted below the rails. ground clearance isnt an issue at the lowers

 

[ehall]

just out of curiosity, assume you used the T&T belly pan for the lowers on a 3-link, where would the upper need to be mounted for the angles to work?

 

[ktm racer 419]

just out of curiosity, assume you used the T&T belly pan for the lowers on a 3-link, where would the upper need to be mounted for the angles to work?

it can be mounted anywhere, but ideally well through the floor

 

[sunburned]

Well since people on pirate are always saying "put it where it fits", couldn't you run the TnT lowers, fab up a tower for the upper somewhere on the passenger side and call it a day?

 

[ktm racer 419]

Well since people on pirate are always saying "put it where it fits", couldn't you run the TnT lowers, fab up a tower for the upper somewhere on the passenger side and call it a day?

you can, but if its not high enough you might as well have a radius arm

 

[MrShaft696]

TNT long arms FTW............. (sorry for non tech related anwser)

 

[foxwar71]

TNT long arms FTW............. (sorry for non tech related anwser)

:worship::worship::worship:


that pic should be the answer for every long arm thread that comes up here.

 

[Rock2pus]

Clayton, Clayton, Clayton. Easy to install, quiet, and super strong. I'm running both the front longarms and the rear coil conversion (which rides better than any rig on 35's has a right to), and I'm pretty sure that if I ran over a landmine the Clayton parts would be the only thing that would survive.

 

[Liza]

I like my TNT kit quite a bit. The clearance is awesome.

Colin, weren't you blowing out the bushings in the ends or something in yours?

Granted, the TnT system does account for more clearance under the belly, I think the under-the-axle control arm mounts negate any benefit you might get from clearanced arms. Not only that, the bends in the lower arms create a wierd angle for the upper arms...creating a situation where your joints are going to wear faster than normal.

I just picked up a built XJ with TnT long arms...that I wish were Claytons. I would recommend Clayton all day long over TnT. Have you seen those components? Pure heavy duty sexiness. :loveu: They are easily warranted, and you are supporting a local business that supports/promotes our sport in the Northeast.

 

[MoparManiac]

Colin, weren't you blowing out the bushings in the ends or something in yours?

I was definitely going through the stock bushings on the D30...but Clayton's mounts fixed that with JJs on the HP44 you sold me:thumbup:

Granted, the TnT system does account for more clearance under the belly, I think the under-the-axle control arm mounts negate any benefit you might get from clearanced arms. Not only that, the bends in the lower arms create a wierd angle for the upper arms...creating a situation where your joints are going to wear faster than normal.

Again Clayton's mounts fixed the under-the-axle LCA mounts. Also, since the axleside UCA rubber bushings are gone, the wear has been accelerated on the poly bushings on the UCA-to-LCA side (from what I can tell). They are starting to squeak quite a bit.

So I guess I should clarify that I like my TNT kit with Clayton's mounts :laugh:.

I just picked up a built XJ with TnT long arms...that I wish were Claytons. I would recommend Clayton all day long over TnT. Have you seen those components? Pure heavy duty sexiness. :loveu: They are easily warranted, and you are supporting a local business that supports/promotes our sport in the Northeast.

Talk to Mark (Begster). He has a hardon for TNT stuff and wanted mine when I was done with it. He recently picked up Travis's (5spdxj) old Clayton stuff and would probably trade I bet.

 

[Liza]

So I guess I should clarify that I like my TNT kit with Clayton's mounts :laugh:.



Talk to Mark (Begster). He has a hardon for TNT stuff and wanted mine when I was done with it. He recently picked up Travis's (5spdxj) old Clayton stuff and would probably trade I bet.

No need...I have a brandy new set of arms and a cross-member (LA Upgrade Kit) from Clayton at the shop.

 

[Dundy]

I like Sam's (ktm racer 419) setup. Beef, simple, and it works.

 

[Begster]

Talk to Mark (Begster). He has a hardon for TNT stuff and wanted mine when I was done with it. He recently picked up Travis's (5spdxj) old Clayton stuff and would probably trade I bet.

No I don't, and nope.

 

[ktm racer 419]

I like Sam's (ktm racer 419) setup. Beef, simple, and it works.

not gonna lie

i am beginning to notice a difference between the longarm radius arm and mid arm 3 link

3 link= more better

 

[sunburned]

not gonna lie

i am beginning to notice a difference between the longarm radius arm and mid arm 3 link

3 link= more better

So Rock Krawler then?

I wheeled with a guy this past weekend that had the Skyjacker front 4-link and it worked amazingly, even with 35's. He was going through some crazy hard stuff without problems. I was surprised. I also realize I need the big belly pan like TnT offers. I bashed the hell out of mine this weekend. So whatever kit I get will need to have lots of armor. Guess I can eventually make that though.

 

[foxwar71]

I wheeled with a guy this past weekend that had the Skyjacker front 4-link and it worked amazingly

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


Theres not many people out there with their Subframe/Midarm setup. The way to do it is WITHOUT SJ's front truss though. I trashed two of them before I wised up and ditched them. Ive been very happy with mine and dont really have any complaints about them, or at least whats left of the SJ 8" RR kit.

 

[ktm racer 419]

So Rock Krawler then?

I wheeled with a guy this past weekend that had the Skyjacker front 4-link and it worked amazingly, even with 35's. He was going through some crazy hard stuff without problems. I was surprised. I also realize I need the big belly pan like TnT offers. I bashed the hell out of mine this weekend. So whatever kit I get will need to have lots of armor. Guess I can eventually make that though.

well the biggest improvement i noticed is the stability when the front end is light.

where i was expecting it to get light and lose traction and slide over, the jeep just grunts up it like a billy goat.

crawling over boulders and on nothing too steep any longarm/midarm/shortarm with decent angles will work great

 

[sunburned]

I just don't know what is 'too-steep' for radius arms, ya know? I went up an obstacle saturday that was pretty damn steep and had me leaning pretty far back when just the front tires were up on it. Whenever I get on something like that, it always crosses my mind that maybe this is the point I'd see the 'unloading' from a radius arm? I had no problem climbing up with the rear tires and getting over though.


KTM Racer: After looking at your 'mid-arm' type 3-link on Pirate's website, I see your LCA mounts sit pretty low below the frame. Ever have much problem with ground clearance on the mounts? I was looking at Poly Performance's 3-link and it looks great, but it sits so low. Pretty expensive too, but you can buy their mounts seperately and build the links yourself. Am I worrying too much about clearance? I'll be sitting on 35's here soon, so will that kind of negate any clearance problems I have now on 32's?

 

[ehall]

looking at the skyjacker install PDFs, their kits appear to be drop brackets on a custom crossmember