Bendy time!

that's why I built my bender in vertical. and put it on wheels

need 20'? just roll it outside :D

 
SPECFab said:
yes it is hydraulic, you have to mount yours solid. To work full sticks you have to have a large clear area some times i have to load tube from both sides to get the bends i want so you need 20 feet out each end and 20feet on one side and 10 feet on the other side and the cages i do can have 12 bends in one stick so you don't piece the stuff together i do very few butt welds
Click to expand...

Yea I wish mine was hydronic, that way I could have it on wheels. But it's where it is in the driveway, and that's where it will stay for now.


So I actually got to play with it tonight, and I realized in really freaking confused. I don't understand how to measure out the lemgth, or know where to start a bend to get the end result that I'm looking for.

Like say I want a piece to be 63" from the outside to outside of the pipe that has two 90* bends on each corner. [_________]
(Imagine those are 90* bends on the corner, and there isn't a little tab at the top)

So from the outside to outside I want 63". So how do I know how long to cut the tube before I bend it? And then when it's cut, how do I know where to start my bend?

I'm so confused......
 
How long are your bent sections? If its like 2" then you would need about 68"-69" to compensate for the bend. But then again I'm just guesstimating lol the center of the bend should be where you mark out 63" but if you're going to want the final length including the bend sections, then I'd start making the center bend points maybe 1/16-1/8 before 63" total length.
Any of that makes sense? I suck at exposing lol
 
That is what I was trying to tell you buying it is the easy part
Most people waste $500 in tube and give up and never use it again
How did you do in geometry and trig and calculus in school
Its all math I have been bending for over ten years and got my basics working for minieke its all in the start of bend and that is different on every die and spring back is different in different dies and different tubing
There is no easy way to explain how to bend and what you are trying to do is the simple part get in to compound bends and put 6 bends in a tube at all different angles its a pain in the ass
 
2012-08-16195900.jpg


SpecFab does all that pretty tube work then I come in and cover it up with sheetmetal and paint.
2012-09-04185517.jpg

2012-05-11190404_zpsb1e1c166.jpg
 
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SPECFab said:
That is what I was trying to tell you buying it is the easy part
Most people waste $500 in tube and give up and never use it again
How did you do in geometry and trig and calculus in school
Its all math I have been bending for over ten years and got my basics working for minieke its all in the start of bend and that is different on every die and spring back is different in different dies and different tubing
There is no easy way to explain how to bend and what you are trying to do is the simple part get in to compound bends and put 6 bends in a tube at all different angles its a pain in the ass
Click to expand...

Trust me, I'm not gonna give up and never use it again.

So, the die says online that it is 5.5" clc, but what I found last night is that for a 90* bend, from the beginning of the bend to the end it takes 6.5" on each side. So according to Pythagorean theorem, that would mean I need 9.19" for the long side of that right triangle.

So, that mean anytime I want to make a 90* bend I need ~9.2" from where I plan to start the bend, and I can count on the outside of the tubing ending up being 6.5" away from where the bend starts.

9.2-6.5= 2.7". So say I want that piece with the two 90* bends, and from the outside of each tube on the end, I want it to be 63". So I would need 63" + 2.7" + 2.7 right? So ill need 68.4" of tube to make that design, and then I'd start each bend 9.2" in from each end right?

But how do I figure out like how much I would need for say a 45*?
 
Theory is great but now you have to factor in tube slip in the bender
Only good advice I have is cut long and bend then trim
 
I've got the same bender. Now I know not all are the same but here's how it works for me.

Mark 1" back/fwd from where you want your bend that's then the tube will slip to the mark where you want your bend. And like said above think trim to fit. I usually go at least 6" longer than planned and it works pretty good. One thing to do is get a test piece mark where you want to start your bend then line the tube up and bend a 90. Then measure where your bend actually starts/stops then you'll know what adjustments to make on measurements.


Hope that makes sense and helps :)
 
Mnkyboy said:
Sounds like your overthinkinking it. Once you make a bend you should be able to figure out where you need to start your bends and how much material a bend takes.

From there you should be able to do most basic projects, then its just practice.
Click to expand...

This has been my main thought in this thread:eeks1:
 
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