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beater!

Last weekend I went to a NAXJA SEC meetup at Uwharrie National Forest in NC, about 5 hours south of here. Got to meet some guys I've known from the forums, which was nice. Also got to see some badass XJs. First time to Uwharrie for me. I broke one of my WJ driveshafts trying to get over some rocks (I had a spare) but otherwise it was a great trip.

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On Sunday we went East to Nags Head, then tooled up the outer banks to Corolla for some beach driving. I hadn't ever done that either, so two adventures in one weekend.

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I also discovered that my passenger UCA bracket was mangled up and replaced it. I had crushed it up sometime in August, then it broke off from the axle entirely at the Fall Crawl. I welded it back on, but it broke off again at Uwharrie. I called Undercover Fab and they had one in stock and were willing to ship quickly, so I bought it and got that installed today. Nice piece, solid, easy to install.

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I am also still making progress on the rollover repairs. I replaced the two broken Napier flares (broke one of the replacements on something already), and also installed a new set of 2500 tails. I got a Crown fiberglass header panel from Quadratec that is mostly intact, but haven't installed it yet. I plan to do some work in the engine bay while the front clip is off, so it will stay down for a while once I get there. I think this is the same panel I bought from Quadratec years ago. This is the biggest priority group on the rollover repair but it will take a while.
 
What kind of engine bay work are you planning to do?

My entire front clip is off right now too as I install the new PS pump. There is a lot of access to things right now and it would be a great time to make upgrades.
 
I want to install a second battery tray where the airbox used to be. I also need to fabricate a mounting plate for the ECM, and bolt it to the second battery tray in an upright position, to get the ECM off the fender wall. It will be easier to do this with the front end removed. I also bought a couple of new coolers that I will be installing in front of the condenser (for trans and ps) and it will be easier to do the plumbing with the front end removed.
 
Went wheeling with a club in Crozet VA on some land that they lease. Great group of people, terrain is fun too. Trying to work a deal so I can get some NAC and SEC people on site together.

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Broke one of my new 2500 tail lights. JCR quarter panel guards on order soon.

Also folded up one of the Dirtbound quarterpanel aprons landing on a rock. Gotta trim that up.

No more rollover repairs, was hoping to do some of that this week but other stuff going on so nothing happening
 
Went wheeling with a club in Crozet VA on some land that they lease. Great group of people, terrain is fun too. Trying to work a deal so I can get some NAC and SEC people on site together.

I'd be interested in riding around the Crozet area. I was never able to ride up there before that area was closed down.

Nick
 
I was looking to start building a set of axles in the new year, but Andy in Pa. found a set of D44s that were available for a good price, so I bought them a couple of days ago. TJ Rubicon D44s with air lockers (and the compressor), 5.13 gears, RCV front axle shafts, new front brakes, Teraflex covers, and more. Minimum work required is leaf perches and shock mounts on the rear, add another 1-2" of lift to the jeep, plumb the compressor, and buy tires. Hope to have it all done in January.

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Working through repairs, but wanted to call this one out

My old Hi-Country tow hooks had three bolts through the passenger frame rail, mirroring the three holes for the steering box on the driver side. The JCR bumper tie-in brackets only have one hole on the passenger side (not counting the two swaybar bracket bolts). Even though the other holes aren't sleeved or anything, they did increase load distribution (single shear to triple shear), and I already had holes in the frame rail, so I duplicated the bolt pattern

The basic setup just uses a strip of 3/16 steel that braces the inside of the rail, with matching holes in the tie-in bracket on the outside. For the inside strip I just copied the Hi-Country bracket while I still had it (sold it a while ago). Then for the other holes I sprayed paint through the existing holes in the frame rail to mark their general vicinity, overlaid the inner bracket, and drilled the outers to match

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Small but makes me feel better about pulling stuff now
 
Haven't had any real problems with engine temperatures after getting the exhaust repaired, but one thing that always bugged me is that the whole coolant system kind of struggles when sitting at a stop (whether waiting on the trail or sitting at a red light). Highway cruise temperatures are about 200F but sitting at a stop the temps will climb to 215-220F because there's less cold coolant GPM for engine heat to transfer onto. Meanwhile the heat stops working as well in winter, since less hot coolant GPM flowing through the heater core for the cold air to blow across. I figured if the front end is off its a good time to swap the water pump, so I bought a FlowKooler 1747 water pump with higher flow at low RPMs, should give lower engine temperatures at stop / idle / crawl, and also give better heat in winter in the same situations.

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I had installed a new pump from NAPA when I swapped engines a few years ago, and it still looks and feels good, so I'm going to put it in the expedition bag as a spare.
 
Installed these Flex-A-Lite 4110 tube and fin coolers with rock guards while the front end was off. One of them replaces my old B&M stacked-plate trans cooler, and the other was added for power steering. Stacked plate gives better performance (and has built-in armor properties) but these increase fluid capacity more, which was a big objective

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Front end back together, with the new Crown fiberglass cowl, and a fresh coat of paint on the JCR bumper

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Still some rough spots on the fenders, but I'll live with it. Need to go back and work on the main cab again before reinstalling the roof rack, but I need to pull the headliner board back out first
 
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