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Ball joints both sides or one? what brand?

I've done 3 sets (both sides) in the last year...
Good Air compressor with 1/2" impact
HF Balljoint Press
Spicer balljoints

from start to finish, expect 3-5 hours.. super easy job.. Just time consuming
 
One thing to remember is if you're heating the casting, have tension on the ball-joint, and hitting it with a light sledge, BE CAREFUL!

I had my upper Balljoint literally explode! I still haven't found a couple of the pieces in the garage I used...

you used too much heat ;)
 
Well with money being short I have no choice but to do the one side of ball joints for now. I will be replacing both sides of hub bearings, and u-joints, but the passenger side steering knuckle and ball joints.

Have you guys ever used Spicer ball joints, and Moog hub bearings?
Heard of the manufacturers but not for those parts. I can save $75 using those parts.

The Timken hubs and moog ball joints are pricey.
 
I will be renting the press as Rev said and replacing the other side when the money and weather are better. Like spring time.

Need my Jeep in the next few days to setup my plow as they are calling for snow at the end of next week.
 
Well with money being short I have no choice but to do the one side of ball joints for now. I will be replacing both sides of hub bearings, and u-joints, but the passenger side steering knuckle and ball joints.

Have you guys ever used Spicer ball joints, and Moog hub bearings?
Heard of the manufacturers but not for those parts. I can save $75 using those parts.

The Timken hubs and moog ball joints are pricey.

spicer is OE.

I buy whatever bearings are made in the US. Half of the Timken ones are not anymore. Timken has left the US mostly for manufacturing. They used to be huge in my area.
 
I'm buying moog hubs, and stabilizer links
TRW upper and lower ball joints, and track bar
Neapco greasable u-joints
Raybestos pins and shoe spring kit
For a total cost of $385

Does this stuff seem to last?

It will be only wheeled on logging roads otherwise used as a plow and toy hauler. I know a plow is hard on a vehicle but if you keep them greased I should not have an issue.
 
I was told TRW is the same as Moog by both the NAPA boys and the Advance Auto guys. AA even said the Moog rep was putting TRW parts in their boxes.
 
hence my comment about moog earlier.

yes, TRW owns moog now.

Have you checked rockauto for parts pricing? Even with the shipping I find that they're usually substantially cheaper.

Do search for the 5% coupon code. and try all of the parts, because a part might cost 5 bucks more, but be stocked in the same warehouse as other parts, saving you more in shipping.

87 'cheap bastard' manche
 
I was told TRW is the same as Moog by both the NAPA boys and the Advance Auto guys. AA even said the Moog rep was putting TRW parts in their boxes.

This same info came up when I did the bj's on my trail jeep, I still bought the Moog joints.

TRW makes good parts, especially for how you're using this jeep.
 
I was told TRW is the same as Moog by both the NAPA boys and the Advance Auto guys. AA even said the Moog rep was putting TRW parts in their boxes.

Yup I watched the reset guys put the TRW parts in the Moog Boxes while I was working there.


Same stuff. Different box. I buy Moog.
 
This thread was win. Got the best price by far on Moog ball joints at RockAuto and used the 5% coupon suggested by 87manche. Putting them in the freezer overnight was the trick...slid right in. And I think it was Craig that told me the last time I had my axle shafts out to liberally apply anti-sieze to the hub and steering knuckle upon reassembly...they popped right out this time with only gentle persuasion. Thanks guys!
 
Well my spicer/dana ball joints from 4wheelparts arrived. Ever see ball joints sold with no castellated nut or cotter pin. Called them about it and that is how spicer sells them. Frustrating to say the least. :sure:
 
Well my spicer/dana ball joints from 4wheelparts arrived. Ever see ball joints sold with no castellated nut or cotter pin. Called them about it and that is how spicer sells them. Frustrating to say the least. :sure:
Uh, WHAT? I'd return 'em.
 
And.... on further investigation, I'm not finding any indication that Spicer ever sells those without nuts & cotter pins.
 
first i've ever heard of that. They always come with new nuts and a pin. I can't imagine that Spicer would assume the liability when someone reuses the nut.
 
This same info came up when I did the bj's on my trail jeep, I still bought the Moog joints.

TRW makes good parts, especially for how you're using this jeep.

I know they made the best M14s & TRW M14 rifle parts bring very high prices.
I hope TRW auto parts maintain the high quality that MOOG used to be.
 
watch that HF press. I bent mine on the 3rd Balljoint, took almost an hour to realize that we were doing more damage to the press than actually removing the balljoint. went to autozone, got the rental, look less than 5 minutes to do the last 2.
 
HF sells at least 2 different presses.
 
Well my spicer/dana ball joints from 4wheelparts arrived. Ever see ball joints sold with no castellated nut or cotter pin. Called them about it and that is how spicer sells them. Frustrating to say the least. :sure:
I got a set of Spicers that was like that a few months ago :bs: not very pleased by it.

I buy my balljoints from Crown now, just ask for TRW ones. Last time I got a set of TRWs from Crown they came with new nuts. That was before I bought my last set of nut-free Spicers though so I'm not sure if they have changed also.

PS - when you go to install those knuckles, you may want to use a wire brush meant for cleaning pipe fittings to clean the taper holes. At least on one of them there was a bit of dirt and light surface rust in there and I didn't have a brush handy when I was mailing them. Home Depot has them for a buck or two in the plumbing aisle near the fittings, soldering supplies, and tools, I completely forgot that most people don't own one :(

My trick for balljoints is to get a decent amount of pressure on the balljoint and lightly smack the inner C right by the balljoint with a 3lb hand sledge. The joint will pop out a bit and then you repeat. Using this trick I have never had to tighten the press with more than a 7/8 box wrench using one hand, which is convenient because I don't have find a flat spot to put my beer down on.
 
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