Autopals + HIDs = Trouble aiming.

It generally doesn't matter what type of lens you use with projectors... HIDPlanet is proof of this.
You need a clear lens in front of the projectors, not a fluted one.
Without projectors? I'm honestly not sure, but I suspect you're right about the patterned lens.
The patterned/fluted lenses are the better type of lenses to begin with. For that kind of HID (H4) you want the best pattern lens you can get.
Sylvania used to make a DOT approved HID kit for our 6054 application back in the day. It didn't
use projectors, and it had a patterned lens.
I remember researching those a long time ago and the consensus was they were crap. Can't remember the details but I believe there was major hot spotting issues.
 
Yes, I know. I was referring to ANY clear lens being suitable for projectors (cheap plastic or glass - it doesn't matter too-too much because it's easy to swap). I know non-projector HID kits generally ran fluted lenses (just look at old acuras, and MBs); however, here in Canada we have an Acura CSX (a whored-up civic) that runs clear reflectors with an HID option (so it can be done).

I know about the Sylvania X6054 issues as well. The first gen had a huge blind spot up front (which is probably why Sylvania kept upselling them along with their X1010 Aux HID lights). The second gen was a bit better, but people were still complaining about hot spots along with poor light output (which is probably why they don't sell them anymore). Regardless its failings, it did use a fluted-type lens to - most likely - help it achieve it's dot approval. I'm not exactly sure how good or bad the X6054 kit was, but I believe Kittrell's running the 1st gen kit; you can ask him about it.

So anyways.... if you're doing a non-projector HID retro it's best to err on the side of caution by using a fluted lens; however, if you're planning to do a projector retro fairly quick, than you could probably get away with a clear lens for a short term (like the Acura CSX) to save a few bucks..
 
Alright got my HID kit today. Now i noticed it only has on H4 plug on it. to plug in where the harness for the HI/lo kit plugs into the factory harness input. I was planning on using an HD harness on it so could i just plug it in to one of the inputs on the HD harness and call it a day?
 
That is pretty much how it works.


Thanks now i just have to swap in the Drivers side Autopal off of my old jeep since i managed to smash one of the ones I just ordered last week! :doh: Let my hand off of it for a second and it was lens first on the garage floor!
 
That should buff right out.


No, but it did sweep right up. Thankfully the accident in the last Jeep only smashed one headlight! :D
 
these housings are just a glass normal housing but they use an h4 bulb. now for a cheap hid kit you can use these housing and with them being glass you can run a 55 watt kit without worring about melting them down. if you get the other lights that are plastic cheap projector style then i would def recomend running a 35 watt bulb cause of heat issues.

now remember 35 watt is about 3200 lumens
55 watt are about 5000 lumens but be carefull on the bulb color selection because they tend to wash the color out. so for the brightest option that i would run is the glass h4 lens with a 55 watt 6000k bulb.


i run a 55 watt 6000k in my 9" offroad lights and they are insane bright







http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Proj...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
You can't use those crappy fake projectors for a drop in H4 HID kit. The beam pattern is so crappy they shouldn't even use them with halogens. Glare.

For an HID retrofit using REAL HID projectors, yes.
 
Thats great except for the fact you would be blinding every driver on the road with glare. They aren't real projectors all they are is crap.

Agreed, they have the worst beam pattern I have ever seen. You would be way better off by getting some of the aftermarket housings like everyone else. Even then it isnt close to perfect.
 
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