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Anyone here running motor oil in their 231 TC?

Boostwerks.com

NAXJA Forum User
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Colorado
I first heard about this on Novak adapts website a while back and how they have had good results using 5w30 compared to ATF in the 231 transfer cases. Does anyone here have experience with this? Novak noted reduced noise and longer bearing life.

If ATF absolutely must be used, what is the reason behind it? :dunno:
 
My 87's t-case was really noisy in 4 lo so I used 5- or 10-30 in it, don't remember which now, as that was 8 years ago or so but I do remember that it worked well to quiet it down.
 
ATF is the same viscosity as 30w oil.

it's just dyed and has friction/detergent stuff in it.
 
ATF is the same viscosity as 30w oil.

it's just dyed and has friction/detergent stuff in it.

:thumbup: Good to know. It's the fact that ATF has the friction properties that makes me curious. Makes me wonder if the only reason for it being spec'd is the dye to help spot a leak?
 
:thumbup: Good to know. It's the fact that ATF has the friction properties that makes me curious. Makes me wonder if the only reason for it being spec'd is the dye to help spot a leak?

I doubt the factory was ever concerned about us finding leaks. ATF is a thin lubricant for tight tolerances and has a high film strength.
 
I doubt the factory was ever concerned about us finding leaks. ATF is a thin lubricant for tight tolerances and has a high film strength.

You could however say that a motor oil of the same viscocity could potentially have a higher film strength without the friction modifiers? Is there a potential benefit of having the friction modifiers?
 
I know!! Sometimes I think the guys over there go a bit overboard.

Exactly. I've found it's hard to get an answer from anyone that has had any real world experience to go along with their opinion (like any other forum I suppose). The real world fluid tech and data though is great. :thumbup:
 
I'm not.

But why would I?

ATF is essentially a very stable hydraulic fluid designed for use in Automatic Transmissions where the fluid is constantly subjected to high pressures across a variety of temperature conditions.

It is a low viscosity fluid, lower than 5W30 (which by the way, changes viscosity over a Temperature range).

It has excellent lubricating properties.

It has excellent detergent properties.

If the seal between the AW4 and the NP231 breaks down, you are still OK.

If I was worried about noise, I shouldn't have bought a Cherokee ;)

-Ron
 
It be interesting to see if it's possible. I'm already running 10w-30 in the motor and trans. I might as well run it in the T-case too and save myself from buying several different types of lubricants.
 
ATF is the same viscosity as 30w oil.

it's just dyed and has friction/detergent stuff in it.
WTF you read this? There is no way straight 30w is the same as ATF,
 
ATF is a thin lubricant for tight tolerances and has a high film strength.

...film strength...friction modifiers?

This is smartness. Based on experience and observation. Good information.

I just know I would not run ATF in my engine. Why? Because it's transmission fluid. Motor oil is for the motor.

It only follows that I should put "motor oil" in my motor, "transmission" fluid goes in the transmission, "brake" fluid for the brakes, "power steering" fluid for the power steering. Until they develop a UNI-FLUID I'll just stick with that.

WTF you read this? There is no way straight 30w is the same as ATF,

Not so much.
 
I just know I would not run ATF in my engine. Why? Because it's transmission fluid. Motor oil is for the motor.

I would agree, except...

That I run my Chraftsman Snowblower on a 50:1 Mix of Dextron II/III/Mercron and whatever is cheapest at the pump.

Been doing it for 10 years, same snow blower with that cheap assed Tecumseh engine that came in all the Toro Snow Pups.

Why did I do that?
It came to me like a vision, burnt across the clouds... oops, that a song...

Anyway, I was having trouble telling 2 cycle gas from regular gas. I figured ATF had the lubrication aspect covered in spades, and it was dyed Red.

Easy to tell the difference now, and the engine stopped smoking so darn bad to boot :)

-Ron
 
And to show that I'm not pulling this out of my ass... you quermosexuals. :kissyou:

Per Novak:

The standard 231 weighs about 70 lbs. HD 231's can weigh up to 80 lbs. Fluid capacity of the 231 is from 1.5 up to 2 quarts. ATF is the factory recommended fluid, however many individuals have chosen to run a straight 30 weight oil or 5W30 in a mineral or synthetic. Our experiences with these and those reported to us by our customers indicate positive results in noise reduction and wear resistance.

Endless Mountain Fab:

The final answer is: Depends who you talk to.

Most people will tell you Dexron fluid. And it works very well. Was the mopar factory fill.

NVG's preferred/suggested fill is actuallly 5w-30. It falls in the same viscosity range as the Dexron (tho it feels a bit thicker when it is cold). But it has more anti-foaming additives. So it stays inside the case instead of potentially misting its way up the breather vent.

Synethic versions of either the tranny fluid or motor oil are excellent options.

Choice is yours, man
Joe
 
Interesting.

I run ATF because it's red, which lets me distinguish it from anything else leaking out of my jeep (manual trans!), and because I have a few gallons of it left that I had bought when I still had an auto. Might as well use it for something.

I would probably run a 0W type oil in the transfer case if I was going to run any motor oil at all in it.
 
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http://books.google.com/books?id=Ts...P1#v=onepage&q=30w gear oil viscosity&f=false


pretty sure it's in there.

I had issues with a mazda 5 spd transmission. it was filled with 75W gear oil. Recommended spec from mazda was ATF or 30W oil.
I put 30w in the replacement and it was fine until I sold it.

personally, I would run ATF for the same reason Kastein would, the dye is there to make it identifiable as drivetrain and not motor.
 
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