Anybody have anything to say about Alloy Axles

[sunburned]

Cal, I meant the joint mostly. Read my whole thread and I stated the shaft could be broken, but it's unlikely. Seems the R&P might actually go first.

 

[cal]

Cal, I meant the joint mostly. Read my whole thread and I stated the shaft could be broken, but it's unlikely. Seems the R&P might actually go first.

Agreed, but a 27 spline shaft and the d30 R&P are both weaker than a CTM joint already - so going to a yet stronger (in some opinions) joint is has little benefit. I'd rather run 30 spline inners and outers with a CTM than 27 spline inners and outers with a CV joint.

 

[blubullett]

Agreed, but a 27 spline shaft and the d30 R&P are both weaker than a CTM joint already - so going to a yet stronger (in some opinions) joint is has little benefit. I'd rather run 30 spline inners and outers with a CTM than 27 spline inners and outers with a CV joint.

I think the main benefit of the RCV's at that point is how it improves your turning while locked ability. And RCV's are offered in 30 spline also.

 

[cal]

ability? no. Maybe strength, but again that is still subject to opinion.

 

[sunburned]

Agreed, but a 27 spline shaft and the d30 R&P are both weaker than a CTM joint already - so going to a yet stronger (in some opinions) joint is has little benefit. I'd rather run 30 spline inners and outers with a CTM than 27 spline inners and outers with a CV joint.

Yeah, since I ordered the ARB and RCV's about the same time, I thought about going with 30 spline, but I didn't want to have to get special unit bearings and not have the ability to carry my stock shafts as spares. Too much extra expense in that.

I think the main benefit of the RCV's at that point is how it improves your turning while locked ability. And RCV's are offered in 30 spline also.

You are thinking about the 'crow-hop' that u-joints do when turned all the way to full lock. The 'constant-velocity' joints don't speed up and slow down, which is what causes that feeling with a u joint. So when you turn sharply, it is just as smooth as going straight. It has nothing to do with being locked, front or rear. Let me tell you that a few times on the trail I forgot to turn off the ARB and I couldn't turn to save my life. Even with the front unlocked and the back locked, it's still hard to turn because of the locker, not the axles. When making tight turns on the street, I usually get some momentum then let off the gas so the no-slip unlocks and the whole Jeep turns smoothly.

What you do get is strength when you are at full lock, so you can turn the wheel all the way to one side and hammer it without a problem, which is usually what breaks u-joints and shaft ears.

 

[ktm racer 419]

Anyone ever use Complete Offroads kit? I think its Yukon, because with their gears they use a noname and ship you yukon for a cheaper price. Any thoughts?

http://completeoffroad.com/i-378648...-axle-kit-w-760-u-joints-27-spline-24110.html

remember my yukon fiasco?

They offer a lifetime warranty against breakage. For that price it seems like a great deal to me.

i had a yukon shaft out of spec from the factory, yukon told me to gently bend the ears in with a vice. thought it was sketchy, but did what they said. one of the ears almost took out half my face. on top of it all they wouldnt warranty it because when i filled out the form i said my jeep ran 36" tires. the warranty only covers up to a 33. EVEN THOUGH THE SHAFT NEVER MADE IT INTO MY JEEP. the other yukon shaft broke on its first run out, in the mud nonetheless.

warranty's don't get you off of the trail.. and yukon products are sketchy.

bam, not impressed with the super joints either. with lockouts and regular grease, they lasted me about a year before i had this weird up and down play that mad all sorts of bad noises.

Called them up, they are Yukon shafts. Good deal with the warranty.

see above



with all the yukon crap aside. i am going on 4 years with a pair of moser inner shafts. and i have had good luck with spicer 760's.

i broke a pair of moser alloy outers, a pair of yukon outers, 3 stock outers, and a stock inner.

i now run moser inners, 760's, nitro outers, and I havent had an issue in 2 years.

 

[sunburned]

Yukon warranty only covers up to a 33" tire? You could just run stock axles with those tires, what a waste lol.

 

[ktm racer 419]

Yukon warranty only covers up to a 33" tire? You could just run stock axles with those tires, what a waste lol.

i would run stock shafts over yukon anyway.

 

[NEWYXJ]

With alloy shafts in a D30-what is the weak link? The R&P?
If so, wouldn't it be better to replace a shaft than a R&P.
Thoughts or experiences?

 

[cal]

With alloy shafts in a D30-what is the weak link? The R&P?
If so, wouldn't it be better to replace a shaft than a R&P.
Thoughts or experiences?

would you rather replace a ring gear every couple of years, or a shaft every couple of runs?

you have to really try to break the ring gear. 4:1, in reverse, on 35's, uphill, bound up.. they don't break all willy nilly unless you have other problems going on (bent housing, etc).

you can do a lot to protect the ring gear just running a strong diff cover, or a truss properly welded to the third. before the ring gear goes, the third member deforms enough to let it deflect.

 

[MoparManiac]

would you rather replace a ring gear every couple of years, or a shaft every couple of runs?

you have to really try to break the ring gear. 4:1, in reverse, on 35's, uphill, bound up.. they don't break all willy nilly unless you have other problems going on (bent housing, etc).

you can do a lot to protect the ring gear just running a strong diff cover, or a truss properly welded to the third. before the ring gear goes, the third member deforms enough to let it deflect.

I wouldn't touch alloys in a D30 without a full case locker above any of that.

The stock carrier is weaker than anything else.

 

[XJEEPER]

2 years on Alloy USA shafts 30spl. front/33 spl. rear. zero issues