Any pdx'ers done the A/C to OBA?

[TORX]

so you didnt run a pressure switch ? just an on / off switch instead ?

i'm diggin the monster air tank

No pressure switch, just a toggle wired through a relay under the hood. It turns the compressor on, and then the PRV releases the pressure every couple seconds.

The Monster can is my attempt at controlling my blow-by issue.
I should probably pull the valve cover again, but the motor has almost 250K on it so I think its entitled to a little blow-by.

 

[mojojojo]

good stuff man. im tearing into mine tommorow. although my pressure switch did not show up today like i had hoped. oh well, should be able to get the rest set up and tested for the most part and just add the switch monday or tuesday.

 

[mud1059]

No pressure switch, just a toggle wired through a relay under the hood. It turns the compressor on, and then the PRV releases the pressure every couple seconds.

The Monster can is my attempt at controlling my blow-by issue.
I should probably pull the valve cover again, but the motor has almost 250K on it so I think its entitled to a little blow-by.

Ian, who isn't on here much (slacker87"somethingorother") had a BEAUTIFUL blowby solution. It's been awhile, but it involved some ABS pipe, some clear pneumatic hose to verify capacity. It was pretty slick, somebody could probably get a better description than my drunk ass could.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

What I really need to know is how and where people are draining the a/c I want to do mine but nor sure where to go to get the a/c drained out

x2:helpme:

 

[2xtreme]

x2:helpme:

Any shop that does A/C systems should be able to drain your system for you so that if there is anything in there it is safe.

Michael

PS. Sorry, guys the pictures aren't happening today, I will get it done before the weekend is out.

 

[ECKSJAY]

I have the 1 way valve because ever write up I have read recommends it. I believe it is designed to protect the pump. They are only a couple of dollars and could only help. They might help make the system more efficient if nothing else. Someone who is more knowlegable about compressors might be able to shed more light?

The "check valve" (technical term) would protect the valves inside the compressor from constant pressure pushing back on them. Only problem is that most folks leave the check valve as-is and don't unload it. I had a nice pressure switch on mine with a mechanical arm that triggered a Schrader valve. That valve was hooked to a port on the check valve ("unloader port")...so that when the system shut down by pressure switch, the short line before the check valve would de-pressurize (that's the 'HISSSS' you guys hear on your home compressors when they stop running). Now that the short line doesn't have pressure on it, the compressor doesn't have to work so hard on startup. Instead it'll be working against 0psi...and the check valve won't open until pressure equalizes with the rest of the system.

That said, I put the check valve on my OBA past the oil/water filter and manifold, just prior to the line heading back to the tank. Theory being that if one of those components failed, I'd still have a reserve in the tank. I was also paranoid about compressed air blowing something up, so I had two blowoff valves in the system...set to 10psi over pressure switch setting, and 10psi past the first one, respectively. They were only a couple bucks and it wasn't hurting anything to put an extra one on.

 

[mojojojo]

well i got mine all installed this weekend. just need to do up the wiring this week once i get my pressure switch i ordered.

i basicaly ran the intake from the stock air box through the oiler and just tapped into the stock A/C line with hose clamps.

for the output side i again tapped the stock A/C line with a hose barb and clamp. then ran that through a 3ft section of heavy duty air line (rated at 800 PSI) a lil over kill but i figure this should handle any heat issues and hopefully cool the air a bit before it hits the separator. it also will be handy when servicing is needed. i can unmount the separator and manifold and leave the lines connected and just stretch out the hose to work on it.

from the separator i ran a check valve, then a regulator and gauge, and then my 4 way with the pressure release valve, my air line connector, and a plug for now, untill i replace it with the presure switch.

i also purchased a 5 gal air tank that will go on the roof rack

my plan is to drill out the ends of the tank and add a cpl welded on nuts for airline attachments. the line will be ran thru the fire wall and up thru a sealed hole in the roof. probably in a cpl weeks. after i trail test the system next weekend first to make sure it works when i need it to, lol.

Thanks Micheal and Dustin for the tech tips and pics etc... just what i needed to get over the fear factor of ripping into it. Overall i am very pleased with how clean it came out. it works well so far. will do a true test this week when i get er' all wired up.

 

[2xtreme]

Sorry for taking so long on these pic's but here is mine how it sits today with the pressure switch and dual tanks set up. Really not much different from before but much more convenient for my purposes. The first tank is fed from the high quality black rubber line off of the front 4 way (I have not had any issues with heat on this line at all). The second tank is fed from the cheap yellow line with a quick disco on it to the rear tank (rear bumper) I have had issues with heat on these cheap lines in the past but not with this one at all.
Pressure switch is wired to a rocker in the center consul so I can leave the system on and at pressure or off.

Sorry the pictures are so dark.
Michael

 

[TORX]

well i got mine all installed this weekend. just need to do up the wiring this week once i get my pressure switch i ordered.

Looks good, glad you got it all worked out.

I'll be curious to see how mine does overtime having the filter so close to the compressor outlet. I've heard that the filter should be ~36" away to allow for proper cooling. Time will tell i guess.

We need to do something about your vacuum bottle though. That purple bungee just isn't cutting it.

 

[mojojojo]

We need to do something about your vacuum bottle though. That purple bungee just isn't cutting it.

hey ! there is a screw on the bottom too. its only 50% redneck, lol

 

[mojojojo]

so i finally got arond to finishing up my set up. went and picked up a 25' hose and a few plumbing parts this weekend. ran the hose through the fire wall, then under all the kick panels to the rear hatch. Bolted the tank through the floor nice and secure. coiled up the extra hose i didn't need and tucked it in where my amp was previousley hidden.

scratch one more thing off the NWFest to do list !

 

[bubbacummins]

I know this thread is a dinosaur, but its got good info.

Ok first off just installed my oba today minus wiring, haven't got the pressure switch in yet. My question is if the switch has an unloader valve built in to all I need to do is add a check valve and tee in before the check with a hose running to the unloader correct? All the "unloading" is internal to the switch? I know just enough about air compressors to get in trouble

 

[nickguy]

This is one of the first mods I did as my AC was removed and I just had the compressor. I did a writeup back in the day that I will try and dig up.

I did basically Mini cone air filter -> HF Oiler and air filter ($20) -> Stock Sanden Air compressor-> coalescing filter to scrub some of the oil -> one way valve (Northern Tool) -> 120 PSI pressure valve on T. to Northern tool AC compressor shutoff switch set to approx 110 psi -> ViAir 2.5 gallon air tank mounted in the back of the rig to a output valve mounted on the rear of my THOR guard.

This is essentially what Michael documented and others have done in numerous write-ups.

I simply snagged the wiring for the AC clutch and wired back to a switch in the cab.

Lessons learned.

If you do run an airline to the back of the rig and you run down the Drivers side I would recommend using copper tubing when you are near the exhaust. (Ask me how I know

Use an illuminated switch so you do not forget to turn the compressor off after you have finished airing up. Although cheap at the pick and pull it is not fun to seize up the compressor. (Ask me how I know)

It is helpful to have a hand throttle to bump up your revs a bit when airing up.

Have fun. It is a useful mod and works really well.

nick

 

[bubbacummins]

Thanks for the tips and pointers, I was actually planning on trying to route the line back to the tank through the firewall then under the trim back to my tank. The hand throttle is no prob as my cruise won't hold a speed for more than a few min so I got a switch similar to a bicycle shifter with a choke cable from oreillys mounted to the shifter and use that for cruise or high idle to warm up in the mornings.

Tried to open up your thread on oba but I guess I can't look at word docs on this d@mn iPhone. I'll try when I get back home tonight

And thanks for not biting my head off for diggin up a 3 year old thread

 

[drumnerd33]

Reviving an old thread... What i did for the extra hot air coming out of the compressor is i used the stock condenser and have the air pressure going directly into and through the condenser first then to an oil separator and also used the stock back flow preventor and back to the tank.

One issue i am having is i dont want to overheat the compressor when refilling tires, i noticed it gets really hot after doing 2 tires so im looking at installing a temp sensor.

 

[odgreen89on35s]

Re: Re: Any pdx'ers done the A/C to OBA?

Reviving an old thread... What i did for the extra hot air coming out of the compressor is i used the stock condenser and have the air pressure going directly into and through the condenser first then to an oil separator and also used the stock back flow preventor and back to the tank.

One issue i am having is i dont want to overheat the compressor when refilling tires, i noticed it gets really hot after doing 2 tires so im looking at installing a temp sensor.

You got an auto oiler on the inlet of the pump? No or low flow of oil will cause a overheat problem

 

[drumnerd33]

Yes i have an air filter then the inline oiler with a/c compressor oil in it. But when filling tires it runs constantly and gets super hot... not sure how hot but burns the skin instantly. So im gonna order a temp gauge and use the cap in the center to put a 90 degree fitting and put the temp sensor sending unit.

 

[drumnerd33]

Thinking maybe I need a different oiler? The one i have is the small inline one you put before a tool, I found a fogger style one but didn't know if there is enough inlet air flow for that to work properly

 

[90xjblue]

I have a small tool oiler on my inlet, mine doesnt get near as hot as yours sounds like it does even after 15-20 mins of use.

Do u have it on a pressure switch and going into a tank? Mine cycles on and off when it reaches 145 psi. gives it a minute or so to cool down before filling again.

 

[drumnerd33]

Yeah it's on a pressure switch @ 120 psi, that's all I'm wondering is how long between cycles? My 35s take forever to fill up from 10psi lol I'm gonna try a better oiler and I'm gonna install a temp gauge in my cab along with an in cab pressure gauge. Found both made by autometer