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Any pdx'ers done the A/C to OBA?

Here are some photos of mine.
DSCN8283.jpg


DSCN8284.jpg


DSCN8285.jpg


On the inlet side:
1. generic air filter from a lawnmower with an inlet that matches hose used.
2. rubber hose
3. tool oiler with brass hose barb to accept both hoses.
4. rubber hose over the original inlet tube

On the outlet side:
1. brass adaptor to go to standard fittings for the rest of the air fittings (1/4 npt? I think off the top of my head).
2. 1 way valve so air pressure doesn't damage pump.
3. filter
4. 4 way valve with pressure releaf valve (150psi?) and pressure gauge and quick connector (shown in picture as hose barb).
5. Hose to tank.

These are old pictures of how I first set this up. I now have the additional tank and pressure switched set up and I would have to take new pictures to show these also. The way this set up works you have to pop the hood and turn on the switch. Now I have the pressure switch to keep the system charge or turned off inside the cab and have quick connects on each tank (front and rear bumpers) so I have air at pressure at anytime I am on the trail.

The only issues I had was with the hose barb and cheap yellow hose to the tank. When I replaced it with a quick connect and decent quality hose all issues were resolved.

Does this help?
Michael
 
Manche, i have all of that on my parts rig. if it will save you the hassle, im not lookin to make a buck. why let these parts go to waste? you gave me free tires, come get what you need!

PM/Text me
 
A couple of additional bits of info that might be useful:
1. Evacuation of AC system. Mine was already evacuated, If you are not sure you have freeon in your system have it evacuated professionaly by a shop to protect the material and environment.

2. Take the inlet and outlet "stubs" off of the AC compressor with you to the store.

3. The inlet side is easy (I just found a hose that fit over the original tube) and since it is all "low pressure" there is not much of any issue making things work and adapt easily.

3. The outlet side was the ONLY issue I had trying to find an adaptor to go from the outlet of the compressor to the 1 way valve. I believe all of my air fittings are 1/4 NPT (I will check when I am back home on Friday). I thought I found one that worked well and after a year or so of use I began to question the threads so I used JB weld to "weld" it to the oulet fitting and it has been perfect ever since.

4. When I get back on Friday I will take some new pictures of my system with the pressure switch and dual tanks set up.

Michael
 
thanks alot guys. i now have an empty bank acct.:bawl:

but i also have a 5 gal tank, filter, oiler, hose, etc... oh and enough brass and copper fittings to attract every meth head in portland lol.

gonna shoot for this weekend installing most of it. gotta wait till next week to get the pressure switch through my work. (unless someone knows where to find one local?)

damn this forum and the ideas it puts in my head :banghead:
 
I picked up a good portion of the things needed today.

Still need a safety valve, and a check valve? I checked Lowes, Home Depot, HF, and Parkrose Hardware with no luck.

I also need to figure out how it's all getting attached to the compressor. The stock Sanden fittings aren't being very cooperative.
 
UPDATE:

IMG_0056.jpg


IMG_0057.jpg


Overall it was pretty straight forward. I chose not to run a tank with the setup. I'm picky about space and how much junk I carry. I'll see how it does without a tank, and then maybe add one later on (thinking custom bumpers/tanks). I'm into this setup around $110. I ended up not using some fittings, and I had to buy a compressor since my Jeep didn't have AC. I would think this could be done for under a $100 easily.

Here's a run down on my setup:

Intake:
3/8 Hose barb in stock airbox
3/8" Hose (3 ft)
3/8 Hose barb
90 deg 1/4 fitting
1/4 close nipple
HF compressor lubricator (running ATF through it)
4" long section of 3/8 pipe
45 deg 3/8 elbow
3/8 close nipple
90 deg 3/8 elbow
3/8 close nipple
AC Compressor (tapped to 3/8 NPT)

Outlet:
AC Compressor (tapped to 3/8 NPT)
3/8 close nipple
90 deg 3/8 elbow
3/8 close nipple
45 deg 3/8 elbow
2 1/2" long section of 3/8 pipe
HF Air Filter/Separator
1/4 Check Valve
1/4 tee fitting
HF pressure gauge
1/4 close nipple
1/4 tee fitting
115 psi pressure relief valve
1/4 close nipple
quick connect

Since I didn't have a stock AC compressor, I also wired in a new relay and switch.

I played around with it tonight and it seems to put out a good volume of air. I think I'm going to like it! :thumbup:
 
What I really need to know is how and where people are draining the a/c I want to do mine but nor sure where to go to get the a/c drained out
 
so you didnt run a pressure switch ? just an on / off switch instead ?

i'm diggin the monster air tank
icon14.gif




looks good Dustin. nice n clean. should have mine in saturday. got my valve. just waiting on Grainger to ship my pressure switch. should be here tomorow. . . . i hope
 
Dustin,
Looks very nice!!
I like the idea of tapping the A/C compressor, I am curious to see how that works long term.
I started my build like yours (no tank and no pressure switch) and used it this way for more than a year very successfully. No regrets at all.
The major reason for me adding the pressure switch and the tanks (my bumpers hold 12 gal of air together) was for convenience. I can turn the system on and off without lifting the hood and I always have air front and rear of the Jeep. I don't see a significant different in the ability to air up tires with or without the tank.

Michael
 
Michael, you ever get around to taking more pics of the current set-up with the pressure switch? Also, did you tap into the lead wire on the compressor and power it from a hot lead and toggle switch, or have you (or anyone) just used the dash A/C controls to turn it on/off?


Also, is the one-way valve just off of the compressor absolutely necessary? I have a York compressor on the CJ and I didn't add a valve there, just tapped into the existing lines and plumbed it all up. It's been trouble-free for ten years now. Is there a difference between the compressors that mandates a one-way valve on the XJ ones?

Doug
 
fubar XJ said:
Michael, you ever get around to taking more pics of the current set-up with the pressure switch? Also, did you tap into the lead wire on the compressor and power it from a hot lead and toggle switch, or have you (or anyone) just used the dash A/C controls to turn it on/off?


Also, is the one-way valve just off of the compressor absolutely necessary? I have a York compressor on the CJ and I didn't add a valve there, just tapped into the existing lines and plumbed it all up. It's been trouble-free for ten years now. Is there a difference between the compressors that mandates a one-way valve on the XJ ones?

Doug
Click to expand...

No, I have been slacking in the photos department. I will do it today and get them up for you guys.
Yes, I tapped into the lead wire to a toggle switch (initially in the engine compartment, just on/off) and now on the center consul through a pressure switch so that when the toggle switch is on the pressure switch turns the pump on and off automatically to keep it up to pressure and when it is off it will not allow the pump to turn on.
No, I never used the dash controls although I have heard of others doing that.

I have the 1 way valve because ever write up I have read recommends it. I believe it is designed to protect the pump. They are only a couple of dollars and could only help. They might help make the system more efficient if nothing else. Someone who is more knowlegable about compressors might be able to shed more light?

On the subject you don't NEED an oiler either, you can run the pump and just add a couple of drops of oil on the inlet to help lubricate once in a while also.

Michael
 
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