Another "what front axle should I run" thread.

[blistovmhz]

You definitely have something going on there. We ran the same set of Uni's for 5 full racing seasons. They got pulled and have been on one of the team members XJ for 4+ years now, which is probably 50K miles, with many race course pre-runs. How do they separate? The bearings are sandwiched when installed. I'd say either your stub isn't right (too long) and you aren't getting any preload on them, or you are overtorquing and smashing them.

No idea man. Both the D30's (one on a mostly stock XJ on 33's and the other on my v8 xj with 35's) have the same issue. I'm running chromoly shafts from... Can't remember where, and I'd considered the stub being too long, but the other 30 is on stock shafts and having the same issue. We always torque to 175ft/lb, and re-check the torque after a few hundred km, but it never changes. Checked my torque again last night and it's still bang on 175, despite both uni's being wobbly.
Just ordered two new Timken units (same as always) and will see what I can find on the old ones, but I'm guessing once again, I won't see anything obviously wrong without tearing the uni's open.

What can I be looking for on an old Uni? I figure once they're apart, unless I find chewed bearings, I can't really check anything else as no one seems to have any specs published.

 

[clean4drxj]

Try skf, they are supposedly and upgrade from timken. I think rock auto sells them.

 

[Boostwerks.com]

No idea man. Both the D30's (one on a mostly stock XJ on 33's and the other on my v8 xj with 35's) have the same issue. I'm running chromoly shafts from... Can't remember where, and I'd considered the stub being too long, but the other 30 is on stock shafts and having the same issue. We always torque to 175ft/lb, and re-check the torque after a few hundred km, but it never changes. Checked my torque again last night and it's still bang on 175, despite both uni's being wobbly.
Just ordered two new Timken units (same as always) and will see what I can find on the old ones, but I'm guessing once again, I won't see anything obviously wrong without tearing the uni's open.

What can I be looking for on an old Uni? I figure once they're apart, unless I find chewed bearings, I can't really check anything else as no one seems to have any specs published.

That doesn't make any sense to me. By design any unit bearing in tension should not wobble. It may feel like ass when rotating but I don't see how it would physically "wobble". You sure the nut isn't bottoming out on the stub's threads somehow?

 

[blistovmhz]

That doesn't make any sense to me. By design any unit bearing in tension should not wobble. It may feel like ass when rotating but I don't see how it would physically "wobble". You sure the nut isn't bottoming out on the stub's threads somehow?

They'll absolutely wobble if the bearings are toast. I've had one apart after it started failing and I'm positive the uni was not loose with regard to the axle nut, but it had lots of wobble to it. Pulled the axle nut and the uni separated completely by hand.

Just ordered some SKF's. Never tried'm before. Should be here in a few days.

 

[89eliminator]

i dont blow thru unit bearings like you do, but i'd be lucky to get 2 years out of a set of timkens. thats with 35 MTRS on steel rims. good thing the parts store has a 3 year warranty on them....

 

[sidewaysstarion]

i dont blow thru unit bearings like you do, but i'd be lucky to get 2 years out of a set of timkens. thats with 35 MTRS on steel rims. good thing the parts store has a 3 year warranty on them....

This is one that was only 3 months old... let's just say me and timken are no longer friends.

 

[blistovmhz]

i dont blow thru unit bearings like you do, but i'd be lucky to get 2 years out of a set of timkens. thats with 35 MTRS on steel rims. good thing the parts store has a 3 year warranty on them....

Yea, 2 years is a big stretch for me on the same bearings and tires. I'm starting to suspect that the silt (we wheel on a lake-bed all the time) may be chewing the uni's. Just occurred to me last night that may be the problem.
I always buy from Amazon, which usually doesn't offer anything beyond manufacturers warranty for uni's.

 

[blistovmhz]

So, assuming I end up settling on a pair of 60's, where would I find a set with stock 4.56 gears? Ie: what application?

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Mayne go with 2 sets of autozone lifetime warranty ones. One set to put now and another to swap in then you can warranty the old set. Basicaly switch back and forth warranting them for free

 

[LEVI_KING]

So, assuming I end up settling on a pair of 60's, where would I find a set with stock 4.56 gears? Ie: what application?

very rare, if at all.....3.xx, and 4.10's mostly.

you'll be re-regearing, might aswell go 5.13's and 37's

 

[N20Jeep]

build a set of 9's for it, that way the ground clearance won't be terrible on 35's

 

[blistovmhz]

very rare, if at all.....3.xx, and 4.10's mostly.

you'll be re-regearing, might aswell go 5.13's and 37's

Heh. 5.13. muh gawd. Way too deep for my rig. Daily driven yo. 4.56 is a touch too low for my OD. I'm around 2400RPM at 120(km/h), and I'd like it at 2200. 4.10's might actually be perfect, and I'm certainly not lacking power. Can burn out on dry pavement as it is. That gets real expensive and I know I won't stop. Was one of the only reasons I was considering 37's. They'll save me money !

 

[LEVI_KING]

5.13's and 37's is roughly equiv to 456, and 35's....so overall wouldndt change much...and if you goin beef axles, why not run 37's?

 

[LEVI_KING]

.....if you do end up goin 44/9, I have some 5x5.5 wheels, and pair of spools to fit said diffs if you need em.

 

[clean4drxj]

I didn't see you question before but I'm running Chevy large bearing outters on my hp44(hi steer) 6 on 5.5 and my rear has custom 35 spline shafts to match with disc all around. And to add to this gearing conversation. You also have to consider the extra weight with skids, tires ect. I personally am running toyo 35 13.5's 15's with 5.13's.