Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
http://teamcherokee.com/secondary-rain-molding-seal-oem-jeep-cherokee-wagoneer-comanche-1984-1996/
They call it OEM, but the one I removed had more clip holes and no adhesive.
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Alexia's 1997 Comanche - 4.7L Stroker
- Thread starter Alexia
- Start date
http://teamcherokee.com/secondary-rain-molding-seal-oem-jeep-cherokee-wagoneer-comanche-1984-1996/
They call it OEM, but the one I removed had more clip holes and no adhesive.
- Location
- Gassaway TN
Thanks!!!
thechief86
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- White House, TN
Well, I guessed pretty close, then! It really is a spectacular truck, and I would buy your mj over anything new or used in the same price range any day of the week.
It is probably the only vehicle I'd ever take out a loan and make payments on.
My entire driving life, my motto has been to buy the best vehicle I can get for under a grand, or trade my current vehicle for, if it's an upgrade.
Either way, rock on. Hope to see it in person again when you're done.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
New wheel hubs installed when I had it regeared. The brake dust shields were left off due to be rusty.
Centric Premium Rotors and Posi-Quiet Pads - What was on there were nearly new, but hard braking induced a very hard pull to the left that I could not solve.
WJ Lower Control Arms - Returned 100% of the steering radius with these. They are installed in the correct orientation.
Centric Premium Rotors and Posi-Quiet Pads - What was on there were nearly new, but hard braking induced a very hard pull to the left that I could not solve.
WJ Lower Control Arms - Returned 100% of the steering radius with these. They are installed in the correct orientation.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I also installed WJ LCA's on my Jeep. It might just be in my head but I feel like noticed an awesome improvement in ride quality with the much larger bushings. Potholes don't seem to hit near as sharp as they did.
The only downfall I see is that the WJ arms are so much thicker that trimming the shock mount portion of the coil buckets HAS to be trimmed if you intend to articulate past the limits of the sway bars.
The only downfall I see is that the WJ arms are so much thicker that trimming the shock mount portion of the coil buckets HAS to be trimmed if you intend to articulate past the limits of the sway bars.
JeepNovice
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardner
does it matter the year of WJ LCAs? would this be beneficial for a a stock rig or only if lifted?
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Pros: Larger bushings, stronger control arm, more tire clearance.
Cons: Requires modification to fit, requires modification to retain down travel.
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoWJcontrolarms.htm
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
Cutting down the bushing sleeves and widening the bracket at the axle is fairly easy to do. Unfortunately GoJeep's guide describes installing them backwards which makes it harder to install by trying to shove the much wider oval bushing into the frame end where modifying the brackets is less forgiving. Installing the oval bushing correctly at the axle makes it easier and requires less work to accomplish.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
I actually did something slightly different.
I chopped a small amount of metal off to make the fat end fit in the pocket better and I shaved down the sleeve on both ends rather than trying to widen the pocket.
I did install them the way that GoJeep did but was unaware of his write-up at the time. Once you make the cut that I did it doesn't really make a difference.
I still haven't modified the coil bucket/shock mount for down travel. I need to do that.
You can see here how much it limits the travel. I've been thinking about just chopping a notch out of the arm itself and welding a plate back in there for reinforcement.
I chopped a small amount of metal off to make the fat end fit in the pocket better and I shaved down the sleeve on both ends rather than trying to widen the pocket.
I did install them the way that GoJeep did but was unaware of his write-up at the time. Once you make the cut that I did it doesn't really make a difference.
I still haven't modified the coil bucket/shock mount for down travel. I need to do that.
You can see here how much it limits the travel. I've been thinking about just chopping a notch out of the arm itself and welding a plate back in there for reinforcement.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
I did shave some of the oval bushings outer sleeve down as well. I have drop brackets so my lower arms are nearly level with the ground and do not contact at full droop.
- Location
- sacramento
I love this MJ. Awesome Build man.
Lowrange2
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Abbeville, SC
Yeah, plus, I'd imagine the frame side pocket is more roomy.
Either way, I should stop clogging your build.
Keep up the progress! Looking good.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
This will look better with some piping like the stock seats.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
Hella Vision Plus H4 Headlights - A huge improvement over stock even without a wiring harness upgrade.
Fixed Vacuum Ball - HVAC vents finally work and cruise control works.
Marine Style Battery Terminals - This is part of Kelly's WIP 4 gauge wire upgrade. This solved the hard starting issue as my power harness was thoroughly destroyed by corrosion along with battered terminals.
Trimmed the cover at the PDC to fit the new cables.
150 AMP fuse for the alternator. I can run a 136 AMP alternator safely now.
The flexible 4 gauge welding wire was wrapped in wire loom for heat and abrasion resistance. The alternator field generator wires were removed from the original harness and incorporated into the new harness.
Fixed Vacuum Ball - HVAC vents finally work and cruise control works.
Marine Style Battery Terminals - This is part of Kelly's WIP 4 gauge wire upgrade. This solved the hard starting issue as my power harness was thoroughly destroyed by corrosion along with battered terminals.
Trimmed the cover at the PDC to fit the new cables.
150 AMP fuse for the alternator. I can run a 136 AMP alternator safely now.
The flexible 4 gauge welding wire was wrapped in wire loom for heat and abrasion resistance. The alternator field generator wires were removed from the original harness and incorporated into the new harness.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
AEM F/IC Installation - That bulge is a perfect spot to wire in without extending the AEM F/IC harness and have it mounted inside.
Mounted to the driver kick plate.
F/IC's USB B port is extended and mounted to the center console for easy access and tuning.
I ended up getting the Napier Flares.
Mounted to the driver kick plate.
F/IC's USB B port is extended and mounted to the center console for easy access and tuning.
I ended up getting the Napier Flares.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
Pioneer Head Unit - Does all the fancy stuff, but only puts out 17 watts RMS per speaker...
...So I have to wire in this 8 AWG wire for a four channel amplifier to push 45 watts RMS to speakers and a subwoofer.
The stock clutch master cylinder mount is perfect for running wires.
...So I have to wire in this 8 AWG wire for a four channel amplifier to push 45 watts RMS to speakers and a subwoofer.
The stock clutch master cylinder mount is perfect for running wires.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
I spent a month working on this one flare. The LJ was begging me to worked on.
- Location
- Pekin IN/Louisville KY area
I spent a month working on this one flare. The LJ was begging me to worked on.
The nutserts are an awesome way to go with the hardware! Jeep is looking really good and I'm excited to see it progressing!
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
I only used the nut inserts on the top four since the back side is encapsulated between the upper and lower fender sheet metal. That was a last minute additional when I figured out my hand would not fit up inside of there. The rest of them are held in place with nylon locking nuts so that they can be tightened gently without fear of them backing off.
Alexia
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Huntsville, AL
There is a NP242 and front drive shaft installed now. The Novak shifter bracket was the wrong part and I modify it to work.
These sound suppression foam strips go inside the inner fender. The originals were made of porous foam and collapsed under their own weight.
The new ones I made out of closed cell craft foam do not absorb water and have plastic support sandwiched in the layers. This cut down road noise dramatically.
I was able to retain the stock fender support bracket to keep the rigidity of it.
These sound suppression foam strips go inside the inner fender. The originals were made of porous foam and collapsed under their own weight.
The new ones I made out of closed cell craft foam do not absorb water and have plastic support sandwiched in the layers. This cut down road noise dramatically.
I was able to retain the stock fender support bracket to keep the rigidity of it.
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